bad coil or ECU ?

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Zac Shumard

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OK .. 72 Duster 318 all stock (auto) 2 barrel Carter Just rebuilt, resurfaced, rebushed by a VERY reputable guy.. runs great. the problem I'm having is the car starts up and runs good and idles ok and idles ok in gear as well. but after driving it around for 10 mins it wants to die at a stop light. and it starts right up and runs ok until I put it into drive OR reverse. basically it runs and drives decent until it gets good and hot. Then it runs fine until I put it in gear then it dies quickly. If I let it sit for 15 mins, it then idles OK in gear until it gets hot again then it wont run in gear (on the brake) at ALL !! I have put new plugs, wires, dizzy cap/button, ECU is new also, the voltage regulator is all new and the carb is rebuilt , and it is getting fuel. the only thing I have NOT replaced is the Coil... does this sound like a coil on its way out? runs ok when cold and fails when it gets hot??
 
OK .. 72 Duster 318 all stock (auto) 2 barrel Carter Just rebuilt, resurfaced, rebushed by a VERY reputable guy.. runs great. the problem I'm having is the car starts up and runs good and idles ok and idles ok in gear as well. but after driving it around for 10 mins it wants to die at a stop light. and it starts right up and runs ok until I put it into drive OR reverse. basically it runs and drives decent until it gets good and hot. Then it runs fine until I put it in gear then it dies quickly. If I let it sit for 15 mins, it then idles OK in gear until it gets hot again then it wont run in gear (on the brake) at ALL !! I have put new plugs, wires, dizzy cap/button, ECU is new also, the voltage regulator is all new and the carb is rebuilt , and it is getting fuel. the only thing I have NOT replaced is the Coil... does this sound like a coil on its way out? runs ok when cold and fails when it gets hot??
 
also plugs look black "rich?" and it does seem to load up and have to hold peddle to the floor to get it fired back up .. but if the coil is bad and its not burning off the fuel would this be normal ?
 
The coil could be suspect,breaking down as it heats up.Sounds logical.
 
Sounds like a needle and seat or float issue to me, and since it was recently all apart it makes me think it all the more.
When you move thing around in a fuel system it's common to have a little crap in the lines that make their way to the carb.
 
It could also be a bad distributor pick up coil inside unit. My car had same issue and it was the pick up coil after it got hot car died.
 
ok so I replaced the coil, and still does it..I ran a ground wire from my ECU to the Rad support (where the factory ground already was) and all of a sudden my gas and temp gauge work lol!! but still seems to load up and die after its warmed up once I put it in reverse or drive. does fine until it gets good and warm. I also noticed it has a miss in the engine SLIGHTLY at start up and through out. I pulled each plug wire and all cylinders are firing and I'm sure its getting fuel, as soon as it dies I go to the motor and pump the carb and gas squirts in perfectly ... could my timing be off? or should I just try the pick up coil and or relucter and see of that does it?
 
I'm kinda leaning towards the distributor or pick up coil as it seems to have a slight miss the whole time? and like I said EVERYTHING is new .. plugs wires cap rotor ballast resistor voltage reg. ECU ... all brand new. also my plugs are black and "sooty"
 
AND does anyone have a link to replacing the pick up coil and Reluctor ? sorry for all the "newbie" questions but I am learning lol. and is this an easy swap and "gap" while the Dizzy is still in the motor or should I just pull it and check everything? .. this is kind of the last thing I could think of .. getting gas for sure and runs good untill motor is hot and has a load on it ..
 
Check your fuel pump I put a new one on my 73 340 duster and it would run a few miles then quit,took it off and installed my Old pump and it runs great.
 
I'm gonna guess the butterflies are too far up the transfer ports causing it to run rich.Rich is great for a cold engine, but the warmer it gets the worse rich is.
And you plainly detailed all the rich symptoms.
So if you can't find the problem in the choke or the fuel level, then check the T-Port sync;see link below.
 
Not seeing a link?? But I will look at this. Unknown for sure the choke is open all the way and it's getting plenty of fuel (obviously) lol I have adjusted the air fuel mix screws IN until it starts to run a little rough.. Then backed them back out a half a turn .. But some more info on the butterfly's would be appreciated .. Not exactly sure what to do with them ??
I'm gonna guess the butterflies are too far up the transfer ports causing it to run rich.Rich is great for a cold engine, but the warmer it gets the worse rich is.
And you plainly detailed all the rich symptoms.
So if you can't find the problem in the choke or the fuel level, then check the T-Port sync;see link below.[/QUOT
 
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