shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
yeah, our neighbors still talk to me so I better not push it
even though two houses down there is a guy that runs a pro stock? 55 chevy.
and the next street over there is a 572 hemi dart
I put it into gear and it dies.
- Thread starter shittyslant6
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even though two houses down there is a guy that runs a pro stock? 55 chevy.
and the next street over there is a 572 hemi dart
Yeah but neither of them live with your mom. You do. lolyeah, our neighbors still talk to me so I better not push it
even though two houses down there is a guy that runs a pro stock? 55 chevy.
and the next street over there is a 572 hemi dart
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
WTF? You thinkin this is a Ford? You can't do that on a Mopar they are tapped into the case
Yeah. Well I have been workin on a Ford. lol
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
Traitor. lol
1WildRT
Well-Known Member
Not how we did it when we were kids.... I remember helping a buddy swap in a big block & we were finishing stuff up around 11PM & I figured we'd fire it up in the morning.... Nope, broke in the cam with open headers finished up around midnight.... Neighbors were not impressed.... LOL...
You need another voice in here - not - LOL.
But I'll throw in a few thoughts.
Circle track carbs.
Your engine has much more vacuum at idle and so those carbs will run rich at idle and city driving rpms on your engine.
If your carb is stripped a critical screw, get a replacement that bolts on. If its just a cover screw, then maybe helicoil it. Whatever route is easier.
High RPMs
Every hole in the intake and the carburator must be plugged, capped, or connected.
The carb has a timed vacuum port. If that's not hooked to the vaccum advance, then cap it or stick a golf tee in the hose.
PCV should be connected. Since your not driving it - better not be driving it without the 'kickdown' linkage - none of the other vac stuff matters as long as its plugged.
With no loads engines love lean fuel air mixtures; And lean mixtures work great with lots of additional advance. Go here for why.
Lack of power
It won't go into gear and keep running at lower speeds because there is so little fuel in the mix.
After all the air leaks are addressed, then you can work the timing down as you close down the throttles.
It won't happen in one shot. It will take a series of back and forths, and the engine getting at least decently warmed up. There's a reason cars with automatic chokes start on fast idle.
Timing
A tachometer is critical.
Its OK right now that your just working ballpark but can't even begin to judge whether its getting close without a tach.
If its 32* BTDC at 3000 rpm, it might be 10* ATDC or 10* BTDC at 700 rpm. There's no way to know without at tach.
For example. Here's a plot of timing where the factory recomendation was TDC at 725 rpm
If we measure timing at 1000 rpm, its going to be around 9* BTDC. That's not the initial timing. That's initial timing plus 9* degrees of centrifical advance.
Not all 318 distributors had such a quick advance above idle speed, but all have something like that.
Here's an example from '69 Dodge FSM specs.
Also notice the centrifical advance continues all the way to 4800 rpm.
The 318 2 bbl engines were pretty efficient at lower rpm so they didn't need much advance. But they don't develop faster burning flame fronts at mid and high rpms to the extent high performance engines did.
But I'll throw in a few thoughts.
Circle track carbs.
Your engine has much more vacuum at idle and so those carbs will run rich at idle and city driving rpms on your engine.
If your carb is stripped a critical screw, get a replacement that bolts on. If its just a cover screw, then maybe helicoil it. Whatever route is easier.
High RPMs
Every hole in the intake and the carburator must be plugged, capped, or connected.
The carb has a timed vacuum port. If that's not hooked to the vaccum advance, then cap it or stick a golf tee in the hose.
PCV should be connected. Since your not driving it - better not be driving it without the 'kickdown' linkage - none of the other vac stuff matters as long as its plugged.
With no loads engines love lean fuel air mixtures; And lean mixtures work great with lots of additional advance. Go here for why.
Lack of power
It won't go into gear and keep running at lower speeds because there is so little fuel in the mix.
After all the air leaks are addressed, then you can work the timing down as you close down the throttles.
It won't happen in one shot. It will take a series of back and forths, and the engine getting at least decently warmed up. There's a reason cars with automatic chokes start on fast idle.
Timing
A tachometer is critical.
Its OK right now that your just working ballpark but can't even begin to judge whether its getting close without a tach.
If its 32* BTDC at 3000 rpm, it might be 10* ATDC or 10* BTDC at 700 rpm. There's no way to know without at tach.
For example. Here's a plot of timing where the factory recomendation was TDC at 725 rpm
If we measure timing at 1000 rpm, its going to be around 9* BTDC. That's not the initial timing. That's initial timing plus 9* degrees of centrifical advance.
Not all 318 distributors had such a quick advance above idle speed, but all have something like that.
Here's an example from '69 Dodge FSM specs.
Also notice the centrifical advance continues all the way to 4800 rpm.
The 318 2 bbl engines were pretty efficient at lower rpm so they didn't need much advance. But they don't develop faster burning flame fronts at mid and high rpms to the extent high performance engines did.
Last edited:
One more tip.
If you know the engine rpm, even if its at 2000 rpm, you can compare the timing at that rpm with the specs on the graph above.
As you take more timing at rpm measurements you can plot your distributor's timing curve. That assumes you don't rotate the distributor between measurements
If you know the engine rpm, even if its at 2000 rpm, you can compare the timing at that rpm with the specs on the graph above.
As you take more timing at rpm measurements you can plot your distributor's timing curve. That assumes you don't rotate the distributor between measurements
LMAO
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
I was able to fire it up after school today and I set it at 12deg. and it sat and idled fine.
I started to try and tune the carb but it ran out of gas and only fired up briefly before dying. I can get gas for it Wednesday and then continue to tune on it. (my dad noted that it was at 20hg at slightly above idle and probably 18hg at idle.)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/adBzWVa7axz7ieyK8
I started to try and tune the carb but it ran out of gas and only fired up briefly before dying. I can get gas for it Wednesday and then continue to tune on it. (my dad noted that it was at 20hg at slightly above idle and probably 18hg at idle.)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/adBzWVa7axz7ieyK8
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
So other than the vacuum leak is that all you changed? Sounds like progress!!
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
yes, I started to mess with the idle mix screws to tune on it further, but it ran out of gas before I really made any progress.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
Ok, so a new problem has come up.
It only runs when cranking. the second I let off the key, it dies.
I am thinking its the ballast resistor.
what do you guys think?
It only runs when cranking. the second I let off the key, it dies.
I am thinking its the ballast resistor.
what do you guys think?
Bypass the ballast temporarily. If it runs then, put a ballast on it.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
yeah I am going to try that, it just sucks since its a BRAND NEW BALLAST
not even 15 days.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
so just get a wire going from the battery to the pos. on the coil?
No, just the ballast. Then it starts/stops with key.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
yep, ballast is dead. fired up immediately and idled. took the key out and kept going
surprised me a bit. I forgot what happens when you hotwire a car
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
no, I always take it out before I get out of the car. it has a 30-day satisfaction type policy so I'll take it back and get another. and a spare
All you need to do is connect both sides of the ballast together.
See, had you followed instructions instead of doing something possibly dangerous like hotwiring, it would not have done all that.yep, ballast is dead. fired up immediately and idled. took the key out and kept going
surprised me a bit. I forgot what happens when you hotwire a car
I am glad you figured it out though without gettin you or anyone else killed.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
yeah. I thought I did it wrong when It kept running without the key.
new lesson. double check before trying stuff.
Plus, you've "really" not isolated the ballast. You bypassed the whole circuit, so if there's a broke connection "other" than the ballast, you missed it. If you bypass "just" the ballast and it runs, you've narrowed it down "bout" as far as you can. lol
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