Bad Day...Smoked something....2nd verse

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Back in Time

Back in Time

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Thought I had fixed my problem by repairing burnt red lead going to ammeter..had the 2 ammeter wires tied together after repair and all is well...or so I thought. I went ahead and hooked the wires back up to the ammeter and my dead short is back...do I possibly have a bad gauge ? Clear as mud ?:cheers:
 
I would ditch that mess, do the full MADD bypass and use a volt gauge. you wont be disappointed. that way you can bypass the bulkhead along with it. ive seen ammeters that have been fully barbyqued. I would post a link to my thread but nobody reads it any way lol. there is a thread somewhere that shows how to replace the ammeter with a volt gauge and still retain the factory look
 
You probably have a bad ammeter. "Testing" by just hooking it up and waiting for the fire and smoke to clear is bad medicine.
 
73AbodEE said:
I would ditch that mess, do the full MADD bypass and use a volt gauge. you wont be disappointed. that way you can bypass the bulkhead along with it. ive seen ammeters that have been fully barbyqued. I would post a link to my thread but nobody reads it any way lol. there is a thread somewhere that shows how to replace the ammeter with a volt gauge and still retain the factory look
Click to expand...

Sounds like the way to go. Will find that thread.:cheers: Another glitch in the 'way over budget' car:banghead:
 
I'm Baaaack.....Did Madd Bypass a while back but never started the car( I know I know) and have been busy with HOA duties so car was on back burner for a while.Went to move it out of the garage today and wouldn't start using ignition switch.Could turn switch on and short solonoid and it starts right up. Will finally have time tomorrow so will backtrack my steps...any hints on where I may have gone wrong ? I might add... the car cranks with the ignition switch just will not fire but with switch in on position and shorting solonoid it fires right up.
 
You need to find the short. Get a test light, unhook the battery NEG terminal and hook the test light up. Go round and make sure EVERYthing is shut off, including dome, trunk, etc lights

A drain will light the lamp. Sometimes, when trying to find heavy shorts, a headlight works well.

If you can't find it (disconnecting "stuff" and removing fuses) try disconnecting the alternator

And, it COULD be the ammeter. The two studs should show "open" to ground when disconnected.
 
I did find the short... was the ammeter..did madd bypass... see post # 8...Was hoping you would answer and maybe give me a starting point before I dig up my schematics and start testing. Thanks
 
Hey, just for us dumba$$es. What's the Madd Bypass? Is there a schematic somewhere? Thanks
 
AJ/FormS said:
As to the no fire in crank mode, thats usually a ballast resistor. Are you still using that oem system?
Click to expand...

Other way around, unless it's the old 5 pin ECU

That is, bad ballast with points, or 4 pin ECU causes fire in crank, die in run
 
Still using same system it came with in 1964...Just did mad bypass is all.Now no fire in crank mode but if key is in on position I can short the starter solonoid and it will start and run.No time yet to trace and see what I did wrong. I know for some people electrical is easy but for me it just does not compute for some reason....Usually use trial and error method which can be dangerous with wiring.
 
You may have disturbed an already "iffy" connection through the bulkhead.

Your "ignition run" (IGN 1) which is traditionally dark blue, is ONLY hot in run, and is NOT hot in "crank."

The original ignition resistor bypass (IGN2) is traditionally brown, comes off a second contact in the ignition switch, goes through the bulkhead and ends up at the coil POS end of the ballast resistor.

That wire is hot only in crank, and is what gives you "starting" ignition power

Sounds like that is not working
 
AJ/FormS said:
As to the no fire in crank mode, thats usually a ballast resistor.
Click to expand...

Battery voltage is going to be drawn down during cranking due to the high current demand of the starter motor. Since we start with a lower voltage at the ignition switch, there is going to be even less at the coil, . . . possibly enough less that it won't develop sufficient voltage to fire the spark plugs. Bypassing the resistor during cranking will put that lower battery voltage at the coil so it will be operating at its design voltage again.It gets the bypassed full battery voltage from the IGN 2 circuit of the switch .
 
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