bad pressure plate or something else??????? pics inside

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340plot

340plot

the bushy bush
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ok, so, i took my gearbox out, due to haveing a pedal that took both my feet to push the clutch in with my hydraulic setup. so i yanked that out of the car, and went back to the old mechanical. same thing happened.

so, once i got the clutch out, and looked, i can see where the springs are hitting the 3 forks. and also, the forks are hitting part of the metal the holds the springs in the clutch plate itself. now i can see why the pedal was so hard.

btw, so much for it being a heavy duty clutch.lol


i highlighted the rubbing area.

tell me what you guys think
 

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What that means is the fingers are moving too FAR

So what you need to do is determine this:

Do/ did the fingers really need to move that far to release? If so, you have a clutch problem

If not, then your hydraulic clutch system is simply ABLE to move the linkage that far, and you either need (as I mentioned earlier) a smaller master or larger slave, or to change the mechanical ratio, which is probably difficult/ impossible

I wish you'd keep this in ONE THREAD so we can follow what you are doing. Is this a bell/ fork/ clutch combo THAT DID WORK or is it a new build? You may have something weird like a binding pilot bearing, bell misalignment, ???
 
67Dart273 said:
What that means is the fingers are moving too FAR

So what you need to do is determine this:

Do/ did the fingers really need to move that far to release? If so, you have a clutch problem

If not, then your hydraulic clutch system is simply ABLE to move the linkage that far, and you either need (as I mentioned earlier) a smaller master or larger slave, or to change the mechanical ratio, which is probably difficult/ impossible

I wish you'd keep this in ONE THREAD so we can follow what you are doing. Is this a bell/ fork/ clutch combo THAT DID WORK or is it a new build? You may have something weird like a binding pilot bearing, bell misalignment, ???
Click to expand...



i put the factory setup back in too, and it did the same thing. so i do think that it had to push that far to release.

this was a new build. all the bolts were in the bell, and pilot bearing looks good
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Its all garbage, looks like the clutch disk was put in backwards.
Click to expand...


no, the clutch was not in backwards. i do not think it would even bolt up.

i did not have this car running yet. the marks that are in it, are from before i bought it, leading me to believe that there was an issue with it. and when i did start the car for the firswt time yesterday, i only fire off a cup of gas, just to check oil pressure, and never tried to push the clutch in, so it could not have rubbed then
 
if the clutch plate is in backwards, you would not even be able to get the bolts for the pressure plate on. ( i just walked outside to confirm this, just to be sure.lol)
 
You are probably right but it is an over travel issue. I mentioned this in the other thread.

Your hydraulic clutch may have moving it as far as it needed to go but you (when the peddle was getting hard) were pushing it beyond what was needed.

One way to check this is with a feeler gauge. Take the inspection cover off, press in the clutch and insert a feeler gauge between the clutch disk and the pressure plate (can't remember the size of feeler gauge that should fit but it is very small).
 
I had a Zoom clutch where the fingers would contact the disk. When I purchased a new RAM clutch and compared the disks the hub was about 3/8" thicker on the pressure plate side. The RAM didn't make contact.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You are probably right but it is an over travel issue. I mentioned this in the other thread.

Your hydraulic clutch may have moving it as far as it needed to go but you (when the peddle was getting hard) were pushing it beyond what was needed.

One way to check this is with a feeler gauge. Take the inspection cover off, press in the clutch and insert a feeler gauge between the clutch disk and the pressure plate (can't remember the size of feeler gauge that should fit but it is very small).
Click to expand...



i understand what you are saying, but my idea behind it, even when the pedal was hard to push, it was still moving the clutch fork maybe one inch.now, do not forget, i have no hump in the car, so i can sit there and watch exactly what is going on.and when the first little bit i push the clutch, it does not move underneath, but the moment the pedal gets hard to push, is when it has its first movement on the fork

also, it does it with the factory setup too.?
and, all the damage to the clutch plate was a prior problem, as there is alot of metal shaving thrown around in there, leading me to believe that the p.p is shot.

when i took the bell off, i was playing with the 3 forks that are on the p.p, while it was still bolted to the flywheel, and one of the forks was not sitting even with the others. only when i banged it some with my palm, did it snap back inot place.

i appreciate all the help guys. money is tight, and i really do not have the money for a clutch right now, so if i can figure it not to be the clutch, that would be great.lol
 
That pressure plate does not look new.........

Years ago I had a PP that would not release, it had gotten "junk" from the disk trapped back in the cover between the cover and the pressure plate. The PP would "come up" to release, and press against the "junk" between and would not release clean. Might look back in there with a good strong light, etc
 
Update.................

I just re-installed the clutch, and once all the bolts were torqued down, one of the 3 little forks on the p.p is like a 1/8 inch away from hitting the springs on the clutch plate. The other two are 1/4 or more away.

Could i be getting a too hard a pedal, as it is trying to push just one for a little bit, then all three?
 
340plot said:
Update.................

I just re-installed the clutch, and once all the bolts were torqued down, one of the 3 little forks on the p.p is like a 1/8 inch away from hitting the springs on the clutch plate. The other two are 1/4 or more away.

Could i be getting a too hard a pedal, as it is trying to push just one for a little bit, then all three?
Click to expand...

There's something wrong with the PP, the type of disk, or the combination
 
so^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ was that your personel clutch? if so, when you replaced it, did everything go ok?
 
I had the same type of problem with my new clutch I put in after rebuilding my engine last year. I bought a clutch kit from Phoenix Friction and it wasn't right from the start. I had disc spring to fork issues too. I bought a new clutch from
Brewer's Performance but haven't installed it yet.
 
Either something is worn/broken or the fingers weren't adjusted right when the pressure plate was put together. The fingers need to all be at the same level when the PP is bolted to the flywheel. The adjustment for the fingers are the 3 nuts on the side of the PP that faces the trans. This also affects the amount of movement in the plate when you release the clutch so it might take some trial and error to adjust right. I also had problems with a parts store clutch/PP not being put together right from the factory(needed finger adjustment). That looks like a hevy duty clutch to me judging be the amount of springs in it so dont expect it to be easy on the leg.
 
i am hoping that the problem was with the clutch,p.p. so i ordered a new one. well see.

ANY ONE KNOW WHATS A GOOD CLUTCH TO RUN WITH A HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SETUP?
 
I'd go diaphram. The stocker Borg & Beck (3 finger) used to have a BIG "over center" spring which helped "push down" the linkage somewhat and relieve foot pressure

Without that spring you'll have more foot pressure, most diaphragm clutches need less
 
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