Ballast resistor
- Thread starter Pettero
- Start date
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Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
what wire are you trying to install ?
what are we working on? how about some pics pics of what you are doing?
you need a ballast with stock mopar EI
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
heres a couple diagrams, dont know if you have a single or dual ballast. pictures would really help
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
What is the "mains switch"? I can't make out anything in your photos. There is only the key switch in the factory wiring. Maybe that is a "battery isolation" switch added by a prior owner.
I wouldn't fool with the old Mopar EI in a 67 Barracuda since it wasn't factory anyway. However, sounds like you have the connector for it in your (expensive) YearOne engine harness, so maybe. Otherwise, a GM 8-pin HEI setup is simpler, cheaper, and better.
As said, you will need a ballast resistor. I would wire for the single ballast and get a 4-pin ECU. Most new 5-pin ECU's today are actually 4-pin type with a dummy pin to not worry buyers. The ballast resistor should be 0.5 ohm cold. Get one for electronic ignition, look up 1975 to be safe.
I wouldn't fool with the old Mopar EI in a 67 Barracuda since it wasn't factory anyway. However, sounds like you have the connector for it in your (expensive) YearOne engine harness, so maybe. Otherwise, a GM 8-pin HEI setup is simpler, cheaper, and better.
As said, you will need a ballast resistor. I would wire for the single ballast and get a 4-pin ECU. Most new 5-pin ECU's today are actually 4-pin type with a dummy pin to not worry buyers. The ballast resistor should be 0.5 ohm cold. Get one for electronic ignition, look up 1975 to be safe.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
not understanding what you mean here.
there is thread here with a million pics
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=180047
66durgederp
"pull hard, itll come easy"
see if the coil says "use with external ballast" on it first. some canister type coils are internally resisted, thus not needing an external ballast, and will say it on the main body accordingly. All of the rigs ive dealt with have a .8 to 1.4 ohm resistance for the coil side (on a dual ballast) NOT including the coil resistance itself.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
It connects to one of the terminals on the start relay. You should not have three wires there. Where do the others come from/ go to?
One should be hot "in crank" from the ignition switch. The other goes to ground when the transmission is in park or neutral. Does not matter which connectors on the relay, the two "push on" terminals are the magnetic coil of the relay
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
I think this may help our Viking friend. The Neutral Safety Switch and Starter Relay are near the center of the drawing. Maybe someone has an underhood picture showing where the ballast resistor is mounted.
This coil a have.
Specifications:
Primary Resistance: 1.4 Ohms
Secondary Resistance: 9.2 k Ohms
Turns Ratio: 94:1
Maximum Voltage: 42,000 volts
E.O. D-221-2 California Legal
I do not know if coil says, use with external ballast or not?
Specifications:
Primary Resistance: 1.4 Ohms
Secondary Resistance: 9.2 k Ohms
Turns Ratio: 94:1
Maximum Voltage: 42,000 volts
E.O. D-221-2 California Legal
I do not know if coil says, use with external ballast or not?
66durgederp
"pull hard, itll come easy"
Im leaning towards ballast needed but PLEASE DO NOT qoute me on this. comparing accel (prestolite performance) to a factory electronic setup to an MSD setup to a NAPA internally resisted coil setup heres what i found.
Accel: as you stated, 1.4 ohms primary resistance.
Factory electronic ign: 1.8 ohms resistance in the coil, approx 1.2 at the ballast. total of 3 ohms.
MSD Blaster: .7 ohm resistance in the coil, .8 ohms in the ballast supplied with the coil. total resistance value of 1.5 ohms, im assuming MSD's coil is just a badass....eh?
NAPA IC14 internally resisted coil: 3.25 ohms primary resistance.
you may try calling prestolite performance to confirm this.
Accel: as you stated, 1.4 ohms primary resistance.
Factory electronic ign: 1.8 ohms resistance in the coil, approx 1.2 at the ballast. total of 3 ohms.
MSD Blaster: .7 ohm resistance in the coil, .8 ohms in the ballast supplied with the coil. total resistance value of 1.5 ohms, im assuming MSD's coil is just a badass....eh?
NAPA IC14 internally resisted coil: 3.25 ohms primary resistance.
you may try calling prestolite performance to confirm this.
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
Your new harness should have a 2 wires to connect to a ballast resistor. It should be mounted just under the seam of the windshield cowl and the firewall as far to the left as it will go until it's basically up against the fender. Look for a bolt or a single hole where a bolt will hold it to the firewall. If you have an ignition like you pictured then somebody has switched your stock 67 setup to a later electronic. They probably used the mopar kit that includes the box, distributor, and a plug in wire harness. If so then it should plug into your replacement harness the same way. The problem is that it seems maybe somebody messed something up or did their own creation. If the ballast was removed its possible it already has been converted to a pertronics or HEI style or worse was a conversion of a conversion.
I think you are doing good, working with something not near as common as around here, and dealing with translation. Your car is looking good! I like the stance. You will get the wiring, it's about as simple as wiring can be from the factory at least.
I think you are doing good, working with something not near as common as around here, and dealing with translation. Your car is looking good! I like the stance. You will get the wiring, it's about as simple as wiring can be from the factory at least.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
Did get the electronic ignition version from Year One, (Part # HU258AM) or the standard (points type) version (Part # HU258A)? With the black box ignition shown in an early picture, you should have HU258AM. I believe that harness uses the four pin ballast, the flat voltage regulator and has both field connectors on the alternator connected to the wiring harness. At least that's how their harness for my '64 Dart was modified.
In that picture of the Chrysler ignition, there is a round black device to the right of the ignition. What is that? I don't recognize it - is that the mains switch you referenced?
Lastly, here's a picture of the wiring on my firewall before I got my harness from Year One. My car is a 64 Dart and your Barracuda might be different. Point being your ballast should mount somewhere in that general area, maybe further to the right like someone posted. My ballast is the white gadget shown just to the left of the distributor. I hope that helps - don't hesitate to ask about anything that isn't clear.
ATB
BC
In that picture of the Chrysler ignition, there is a round black device to the right of the ignition. What is that? I don't recognize it - is that the mains switch you referenced?
Lastly, here's a picture of the wiring on my firewall before I got my harness from Year One. My car is a 64 Dart and your Barracuda might be different. Point being your ballast should mount somewhere in that general area, maybe further to the right like someone posted. My ballast is the white gadget shown just to the left of the distributor. I hope that helps - don't hesitate to ask about anything that isn't clear.
ATB
BC
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of a stock 67 barracuda. It's real simple, starter relay, ballast resistor, voltage regulator, then a points distributor and regular coil.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
Well, our voltage regulators are in about the same place. Looks like everything else is somewhere else. I'm not sure if we are trying to help with a V-8 or a /6, if that makes any difference. Seems odd that your ballast is all the way to the driver's side, when the distributor is on the other side of the engine. But then Mother Mopar did some strange things back then.
ATB
BC
ATB
BC
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
Those are correct , but the engine harness is for a points type ignition, not the electronic one. BUT, it will work fine with the electronic ignition if you have a solid state voltage regulator. That's what is what's working for me in the 64ragtop.
Long, long ago, automakers used a mechanical points style voltage regulator. Not so long ago, the regulator makers introduced solid state technology in the old style case. They look like the original parts in points type distributor cars, but the solid state components work much better, and they are cheaper to make as well. You can tell at a glance, looking at the bottom of the regulator. The old style regulator has a couple of large resistors on the bottom plate, the new solid state regulator has no resistors.
The engine harnesses Year One sells as "modified for electronic ignition" have the wiring and plug for the 1968 (I think) and later "flat pack" regulator.
We're closing in on it, my friend.
ATB
BC
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