Barracuda died on lift at exhaust shop.

[512Stroker]

Hello all. 1968 Barracuda with all new factory wiring harnesses, switches, relays, and resistors. Car ran great before I took it to exhaust shop. Exhaust guy started it several times while on lift with ease. Went to drive it off the lift and made it halfway off before everything died. No lights or anything. Somehow the starter relay was shorted out as you could not connect the battery without major sparking and some of the connections were fried. Replaced the starter relay with a new one and replaced the fried wires. Still nothing. Thought maybe he torched the NSS wires but they look good. Jumped the NSS, still nothing. I have power going through my fusible link, to the alternator, and the lug on my new relay. I have no power from the relay lug to my starter cylinoid when I turn the key. I also have no power to my NSS and ignition terminals on the relay. What are the odds that I bought a bad brand new relay? Please help if you can.

If you can jump the relay and it will not start perhaps the ECU is fried. Do you have a spare box you can swap and try?
I keep one in the trunk.

 

[cmcknight]

If you can jump the relay and it will not start perhaps the ECU is fried. Do you have a spare box you can swap and try?
I keep one in the trunk.

I do have a spare one and will try it tonight. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[cmcknight]

You said originally "connections are fried" That is what I was thinking. The "major sparking" is troubling. Take a GOOD look around anything near where the work was done, the starter wiring, the transmission harness, etc and the alternator

I should have clarified that only the wires from relay to the NSS and wire from relay to solenoid were fried. I replaced these. All other wires look good.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Not that it's a help, just making a statement, even disconnecting the battery when welding is no guarantee nothing will get fried. Keeping the ground lead as close as possible is really the only way to reduce that chance and even then there's no guarantee. It's just a "chance" you have to take. I hope you work it out pretty easily.

 

[Mattax]

No 12v at yellow ignition wire.
Because of that ^^^ the next two dont get power. They need the yellow wire to get power first.*
I also have no power to my NSS and ignition terminals on the relay.
I have no power from the relay lug to my starter cylinoid when I turn the key.


Fusible link and all glass fuses not broken though.

Confirm pass through voltage to the ammeter and fuse block! Some lights should work if power is passing the fusible link.

I have voltage to all terminals on the bulkhead connector containing the fusible link, but no voltage to the other bulkhead connector containing the ignition wire.

Feel the fusible link to make sure there the wire inside is intact.
Even better, see if the interior lights, brake lights and headlights work. Just because there is voltage doesn't mean there is a good connection. It just means there is a connection. Watch the ammeter as you turn each light on.

Should ignition be protected or am I incorrect?

It's not really protected. Protection is fusible link and the key switch. The fusible link is 16 ga so that's not going to protect the small wires downstream like those the ignition and field.

One you've verifified power is flowing to the lights, and not flowing with the lights off, next thing to investigate is why the yellow start wire is not getting voltage with the key in start. With key in run or accessory, turn signals, wipers, or heater fan should work.

I'd suggest at this stage, unhook the battery and put it on slow charge.
Hunt the break in the connection using yout ohmeter or continuity tester.


*If it helps, I posted an illustrated description of the start sequence here[/QUOTE]

 

[67Dart273]

The fuse link is not reliable protection, even for the ammeter circuit. It certainly does not protect the ignition circuit, which is NOT protected by any other means.

Sorta like expecting the breakers at Grand Coolee Dam to protect your TV set

 

[cmcknight]

UPDATE: Car is fine now. I tested ammeter and fuse box and had power. While doing this, I was playing with ingintion wires and everything came back. Although initially the relay was shorted out and there were burnt wires, after I replaced them, my issues were just loose ignition wires under the dash. Boy do I feel silly. I do appreciate all of the advice and I'm glad to always have this forum for help. Thanks guys!

 

[1969383S]

UPDATE: Car is fine now. I tested ammeter and fuse box and had power. While doing this, I was playing with ingintion wires and everything came back. Although initially the relay was shorted out and there were burnt wires, after I replaced them, my issues were just loose ignition wires under the dash. Boy do I feel silly. I do appreciate all of the advice and I'm glad to always have this forum for help. Thanks guys!

Mopar On! Good deal!