Barracuda not starting after being parked for five years

-
So, I finished my adulting stuff early, and went to check over the connections. The ECU had a bunch of corrosion under it. Cleaned it up and she fired right up!

Thank you all for your input. This is great stuff to keep in mind for the next project I get, or when this one decides to not run again.
Something to think about... "Run" circuit is through ignition switch & has been known to deliver low voltage to ECU as switch ages/corrodes. If you use run circuit to trigger a small relay instead, between battery & ECU, it delivers full battery voltage and better spark. I have that on my 64 Dart using a home built electronic ignition. Ford style coil with GM module and common automotive relay in lower left. Not sure why ballast resistor would be on needed with electronic ignition.
1007171631.jpg
 
May I offer a suggestion. The battery/resistor comments are likeliest options. Since you have the MSD coil, for about $200 more via Amazon you can upgrade the whole mess and get an MSD box. It will throw as many volts and amps as the ignition will ever need and it will do so flawlessly. As I am sure all of us will attest, the Chrysler ignition systems leave a lot to be desired. You can run one significant wire from your fuse panel to the MSD box and then one significant gauge wire directly to the coil. You can then throw away the miles of 18-20 gauge wire the factory installed withe steps in between the ignition, resistor, HEI module, distributor and coil that probably have splices in a few places as well. One 14 gauge wire, MSD box to coil to distributor. One 14 gauge wire, ignition switch or fuse panel to the box. The result is an engine that doesn't crank for multiple turns. You hit the key and starter button and after 1/2-3/4 of a crank, the engine ignites and sounds like a bad *** Mopar. Did this in my 440 Duster transplant. I found more than 5 tape/twist splices between ignition module and distributor. No question as to why I couldn't get the engine to stop misfiring and puking on itself.
 
The Chrysler ignition actually works just fine for most uses. And many people are better off not modifying because they don't understand what they are doing and get in over their heads.
 
When the ECU craps out, I personally like AC Delco ignition module heat sink part number 10474610 in place of the factory ballast resistor. Outfit it with a Davis Unified Ignition 000222 4 pin Dyna Mod (American Made and highest review rating) with an MSD Blaster, Mallory Pro Master 29440, or any coil with 0.9 or less primary resistance to eliminate the need for a ballast resistor. Schematics are available online, on one side of the module run original hot wire from ignition power with the other one to coil and the two pins on the other side are for distributor trigger. No ballast required and very neat and clean installation with some 3/16 and 1/8 inch wire loom. If you already have the coil, it’s less than $100 at Summit racing. If a module goes down while on the road, the nearest parts store will almost always have a four pin GM HEI in stock, you can even keep a spare foreign made one in a static protectant bag in the glovebox...
 
One ecu in 20+years for my power wagon. 470,000 km’s on it.
 
One ecu in 20+years for my power wagon. 470,000 km’s on it.
The factory American made ECUs are very good, I have never known of one to fail... the newer Asian made units are a different story though, hence the HEI module conversion being so popular. I presently have an orange box of unknown origin in service. If it outlasts me,and that’s probably not saying a whole lot, then I know it was probably an earlier unit. However, I am running the recommended ballast resistor... I know many people say they aren’t necessary, however those seem to be the same people who keep frying ECU boxes...
 
-
Back
Top