Battery cut off switch
- Thread starter 66dartman
- Start date
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Zed's dead - looks like some one use a blow torch and some vice grips to bring it back to life, great photo.
67 - great post, would you happen to have color photos from the new solenoid to the two ignition wires. I am in the process of installing an HEI from Trailbeast and was wondering if there should be any changes there?
67 - great post, would you happen to have color photos from the new solenoid to the two ignition wires. I am in the process of installing an HEI from Trailbeast and was wondering if there should be any changes there?
Have you put a voltmeter on the alternator charge post?
That line is hot if you hooked it to the battery.
SlimPikins
Pikins, Slim Pikins.
Sorry, did a search and found the thread. Saw the last post was April, didn't notice the year.
SlimPikins
Pikins, Slim Pikins.
The alternator charge wire goes to the starter relay. The battery also goes to the starter relay through the shutoff switch.
That's the way I have mine wired, through a solnoid. Since the original plan was to run the car at Bonneville I went by one of their tech's suggestions.
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
when i wired my car i ran a 1/0 cable from the battery in the trunk to my kill switch then to the starter post. my alt charge wire goes to the starter lug and that is it. i have a 6 ga wire that is run on the other 2 posts on my kill switch. this wire goes to a buss bar under the dash. this feeds my ignition, fuel pump and everything else. when i hit the switch i kill any and all power from the switch forward.
hotrodhoodlum
X Nostalgia Drag Racer
Can someone post a diagram of a 2 post battery cutoff switch with a 3 wire alternator and a start button . This the first time for me wiring my race car from scrach . I have a painless 8 circuit race kit and have not started yet . Can someone lead me in the right direction for good instructions on wiring Mopar Charging and Starting system is what I need help with
Thanks
Thanks
I know this has nothing to do with the wiring, but since this thread popped back up and I think it's a cool idea, I thought I would share it here.
One of the guys on the B body forum runs a kill switch that is a push/pull switch. Rather than come through a metal panel on the car, he came through a tail light assembly. Now if he ever converts the car back to a street car, all he does is get another tail light lens. Just always thought that was a cool out of the box idea.
One of the guys on the B body forum runs a kill switch that is a push/pull switch. Rather than come through a metal panel on the car, he came through a tail light assembly. Now if he ever converts the car back to a street car, all he does is get another tail light lens. Just always thought that was a cool out of the box idea.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Talked to the fellow at Mad Electrical about this a while back. My concern was having electronics, namely a EFI brain and a trans controller. Mark (?) told me that no matter how you wire this there is a VERY good chance of an electrical spike when the battery switch is tripped. The reason for this is the alternator, for a very brief amount of time will still be putting out current. This current will have no place to go but directly into your electronics. He suggested that the field wire be ran to a separate disconnect switch, something tucked away inside the car someplace. Once you are heading to tech inspection or the staging lanes the field switch should be triggered, disconnecting the field circuit in the alternator, disabling it. At this point, the car will effectively not have an alternator.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Doug, I don't believe that is true if you use a 4 post (DPST) switch and a three wire alternator. The entire reason for doing so is to avoid a separate (hot) alternator line back to the battery
A "one wire" setup might be a different matter.
But your post brings up one of my favorite "fake" testing procedures, that is, do NOT ever remove a battery connection on a running engine.
A "one wire" setup might be a different matter.
But your post brings up one of my favorite "fake" testing procedures, that is, do NOT ever remove a battery connection on a running engine.
Have not done the battery in the trunk yet so was just :lurk: up to this point :iconbigg:
The electronic affect on a Bat. disconnect sw, had not even crossed my mind. But, Voltage spikes are never good on any thing.
What about using a one way diode to control the voltage spike. (Think A/C compressor) That little wire that jumps across the connection to control the spike of voltage when the A/C compressor clutch releases.
Now that i have type this.......Has any one took one of these disconnects apart? I would bet there is one in there already from the factory. Yes! No?
The electronic affect on a Bat. disconnect sw, had not even crossed my mind. But, Voltage spikes are never good on any thing.
What about using a one way diode to control the voltage spike. (Think A/C compressor) That little wire that jumps across the connection to control the spike of voltage when the A/C compressor clutch releases.
Now that i have type this.......Has any one took one of these disconnects apart? I would bet there is one in there already from the factory. Yes! No?
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
that's what we do but thru the body. for a street car I would just add the 5 amp fuse for the radio junk.
I know its not for a 2 post, but this is a diagram I made up for a 4 post cut of switch and continuous duty relay. Many PM's were sent back and forth with Del (67Dart273) to help me make up the diagram, I'm not any good at electrical stuff and wanted to run a 4 post and CDR because I think its the best solution for a street car. Thanks Del! :thumbup:
Very cool idea. I've seen it done before, and is likely what I'll do in order to take my car to the track. Since its unlikely to see much track time I won't run the push/pull set up the rest of the time, but that way if I feel the need to take it to the track I have a way to pass tech. Just drill a hole in a junker tail light lens and keep the good one for the rest of the time, just a quick swap to head to the track.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The problem I have with a "2 post" (properly called a SPST) switch:
Many guys run a separate wire from the battery to the alternator output, especially with a "one wire" in order to get the kill switch to kill the engine.
The problem I have with that is that this leaves (at least about a no 8) a hot wire all the way from the battery to "up front."
NHRA rules has some statement that refers to "kills all power," and doing things that way will NOT "kill everything."
The OTHER problem with a 2-post switch and a 3 wire alternator is figuring out a way to kill the engine.
You must understand that when you take a running engine with an active charging system, unhooking a battery cable will NOT kill the engine. The alternator keeps things running.
Using a "4 post" (properly called a DPST) switch cures all this, because you use the smaller terminals to activate a relay which drops out ignition and or alternator field/ regulator circuits.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
The way it was explained to me...to the best I remember....was that when if you pull the field wire off the alternator while it is energized & spinning it will have some charge left in the windings that HAS to go somewhere.....Not looking for an argument...perhaps I will call hm again when I get a chance?
Here's one easy way to do it:
Buy one more good heavy relay or "continuous duty solenoid." These have two coil terminals, not grounded to the case. Run one small terminal to "ignition run." Run the other to the rear with no14 or 12, wire it to ground through the small terminals of the disconnect.
Hook one big stud of the continuous duty sol to the batt. term. of the starter relay, hook the other either to alternator field or the ignition system/ regulator feed. I did not show a fuse or breaker in that circuit, a good idea. If you feed the output of the solenoid to the "blue" ignition run, it will control BOTH ignition power and alternator field on 70/ later isolated field units, as well as the "input" of the regulator.
Run your starter cable to either the starter, the relay, or a big junction stud and interconnect as shown.
Would this 'good heavy relay' work per your diagram?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Duty-Solenoid-80AMP-12V/dp/B0050I94XG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385961042&sr=8-1&keywords=continuous+duty+solenoid"]Continuous Duty Solenoid 80AMP 12V : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]
Edit: Yes, this thread is a zombie.
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