Best bang for the buck?

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And just a heads up I went from a stock ignition to a full MSD set up and didn't gain nothing.. you're stock ignition in good working order should be fine.. until you want to start breaking records LOL..
 
j par said:
And just a heads up I went from a stock ignition to a full MSD set up and didn't gain nothing.. you're stuck ignition in good working order should be fine.. until you want to start breaking records LOL..
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Yep no need for all that.
 
j par said:
And just a heads up I went from a stock ignition to a full MSD set up and didn't gain nothing.. you're stuck ignition in good working order should be fine.. until you want to start breaking records LOL..
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It does have a shift kit with a 4 to 2 lever
 
j par said:
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so I looked up your cam and as you can see there's the advertised duration which you quoted me and the real duration at 50%... I don't even see the need for new Springs with this cam..
The problem lies in the low compression of the 318 in it's stock forum... If you went with a new torque converter like people are recommending you would probably be able to step up that cam just a little bit as well. I have more questions though.. what intake manifold? Carburetor? Headers? Dual exhaust? One tire fire or Sure Grip? Rear tire size? And are you spining off the line?..
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I like that cam in any mild small block. That cam would even help my 360 out.... :)
 
CRAMAR said:
It does have a shift kit with a 4 to 2 lever
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It really sounds like you have all the makings there. I mean some cheap Summit headers 160 bucks would not hurt a thing... It's what I use. People complain they hit the ground but just don't lower your car like a lowrider and you'll be fine. I've had mine on for 5 years and not scrape them. $37 remflex header gaskets and no leaks ever.. I think your tires are fine your gears are fine and your transmission is fine you just need to find a little more horsepower. I think the aluminum heads would raise your compression and lower your e t...
 
I will change T/C next.I am thinking hughes 24-35.Non lockup 3500 stall.This makes sense because i cant rev engine up at the starting line with my foot on the brake any higher tgan 2000 rpm.
 
gears and converter would be the first items I would spend my money on. 3.91 at the minimum and a 3500 stall vert, headers should be in the top 3 of your parts list.
It's gonna take at least a step hotter cam to get you in the 13's..
you probably have a couple tenths and some mph in tuning.
 
318willrun said:
I like that cam in any mild small block. That cam would even help my 360 out.... :)
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CRAMAR said:
I will change T/C next.I am thinking hughes 24-35.Non lockup 3500 stall.This makes sense because i cant rev engine up at the starting line with my foot on the brake any higher tgan 2000 rpm.
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Be careful with Hughes engines. I just ordered something from them today but it's something they specialize in. Meaning only they make it. They do a lot of reselling of products that can be bought cheaper elsewhere...
 
CRAMAR said:
I will change T/C next.I am thinking hughes 24-35.Non lockup 3500 stall.This makes sense because i cant rev engine up at the starting line with my foot on the brake any higher tgan 2000 rpm.
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Yeah that's not going to cut with a 318 it'll be a whole different car.
 
fishmens67 said:
gears and converter would be the first items I would spend my money on. 3.91 at the minimum and a 3500 stall vert, headers should be in the top 3 of your parts list.
It's gonna take at least a step hotter cam to get you in the 13's..
you probably have a couple tenths and some mph in tuning.
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I like all this but I've had 410s and just changed back to the 355 so I could drive on the freeway again.. and I didn't lose anything at the track. I realize I have a different motor but make sure he knows what he's going to get in the end...
 
fishmens67 said:
gears and converter would be the first items I would spend my money on. 3.91 at the minimum and a 3500 stall vert, headers should be in the top 3 of your parts list.
It's gonna take at least a step hotter cam to get you in the 13's..
you probably have a couple tenths and some mph in tuning.
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His build should beat my 318 Duster but it won't. I'm never for throwing money and parts at a car without making it run as it should first.
 
$200 for the gears and probably close to $200 to have it set up before oil and chat gasket changes? Is the four or five hundred dollars going to be worth well the bang for the buck? And not being able to drive on the freeway easily anymore?..
And what I offer my opinion it's not my way or the highway it's just questioning..
 
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