big block a body swap

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Frame supports mandatory. I also supported firewall to fender wells as well. Used 1" square tubing across fender wells to core support.
Then to firewall. Only cause I cracked windshield after some launches.
Mainly because of 2 1/8 fender well headers. I presume.

D.A.
probably right there sheetmetal removal on a unibody bad its all structual
 
The 68-69 HP manifolds are the best flowing. They will handle up to around 450 HP and they will fit your car, since you have the later body style (67 and later). They fit the low deck better of course, but will also fit the 440. The passenger's side drops in and the driver's side requires cutting the column tube back to the firewall. Might be some other small things as they are all a little different.
 
The 68-69 HP manifolds are the best flowing. They will handle up to around 450 HP and they will fit your car, since you have the later body style (67 and later). They fit the low deck better of course, but will also fit the 440. The passenger's side drops in and the driver's side requires cutting the column tube back to the firewall. Might be some other small things as they are all a little different.
thank u bet them are hard to find got a good deal on some shumacker for now
 
The 68-69 HP manifolds are the best flowing. They will handle up to around 450 HP and they will fit your car, since you have the later body style (67 and later). They fit the low deck better of course, but will also fit the 440. The passenger's side drops in and the driver's side requires cutting the column tube back to the firewall. Might be some other small things as they are all a little different.
cant for the life of me find where to upload photos again
 
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my first monster the 64 polara fastest fn thing on any street in 79 82 hemi 4 sp an 456 gears made sure of that till i put the driveshaft thru the floor sucked none of that stuff fits in this car
 
I used TTI headers and a Summit universal 27.5x19 rad for my 73 Dart swinger
thanks do ya knw the tti #u used what issues were there if any? did u remove the torsion bars to acomplish this task ?looks like ya got a nice fat tire under it what wheel backspace did ya use an tire size ?did you do a drum to disc conversion also?

I will have to look up the part number for the TTI headers, it’s been a few years since I owned my dart.
On the headers fitting I did not have to beat any tubes etc to get them to fit. My car had a flaming river aftermarket steering box.i did have to grind down a rib on the box. One of the tubes was touching it. But didn’t have to grind much. Also had to remove the pitman arm grease zerk. That was all I had to do to get the headers to fit.
I laid the headers in the engine bay and had my brother and his wife hold the headers out of the way, while I dropped the engine/transmission in as one unit. I also installed the engine trans with the starter bolted on. Took me less than a half hour to have the engine headers etc bolted in.
My car came factory with Disc brakes.
Also for got to add the only thing I removed on the front suspension was the steering column, everything Elese stayed bolted in.
Back to the headers if you decide to get the 2 inch tube TTI headers, I found out if you drill a 1.5 to 2 inch hole in the inner fender. It makes it a hole lot easier to get to number 6 spark plug.
The rear tires was the M/T 275/60/15 ET Street radial. The rear wheels were weld drag lights in a 15x8 with 4.5 inches of BS. On my 73 dart the rear springs were moved in 3 inches but the wheel wells were untouched. I hope I was able to answer all your questions, but if I missed one or you have more please feel free to ask.
 
For got to add that I had to cut the shift lever off the steering column. It was real close to one of the tubes.
 
I used TTI headers and a Summit universal 27.5x19 rad for my 73 Dart swinger


I will have to look up the part number for the TTI headers, it’s been a few years since I owned my dart.
On the headers fitting I did not have to beat any tubes etc to get them to fit. My car had a flaming river aftermarket steering box.i did have to grind down a rib on the box. One of the tubes was touching it. But didn’t have to grind much. Also had to remove the pitman arm grease zerk. That was all I had to do to get the headers to fit.
I laid the headers in the engine bay and had my brother and his wife hold the headers out of the way, while I dropped the engine/transmission in as one unit. I also installed the engine trans with the starter bolted on. Took me less than a half hour to have the engine headers etc bolted in.
My car came factory with Disc brakes.
Also for got to add the only thing I removed on the front suspension was the steering column, everything Elese stayed bolted in.
Back to the headers if you decide to get the 2 inch tube TTI headers, I found out if you drill a 1.5 to 2 inch hole in the inner fender. It makes it a hole lot easier to get to number 6 spark plug.
The rear tires was the M/T 275/60/15 ET Street radial. The rear wheels were weld drag lights in a 15x8 with 4.5 inches of BS. On my 73 dart the rear springs were moved in 3 inches but the wheel wells were untouched. I hope I was able to answer all your questions, but if I missed one or you have more please feel free to ask.
thnk you so much for the info this has been a big strugle for me
 
did you haave to use a cbody oil pan ffor tie rod clearance?

The 440 short block I bought for the dart came with a 8 QT morose pan. The short block came out of a 1966 Plymouth B-Body. But Droped right in my 73 dart
 
is this because of a heat issue or a clearance issue mine clear fine although i cant rember what removal may have looked like

Valve cover clearance.

Headers come no where near the master.
 
thanks do ya knw the tti #u used what issues were there if any? did u remove the torsion bars to acomplish this task ?looks like ya got a nice fat tire under it what wheel backspace did ya use an tire size ?did you do a drum to disc conversion also?

440-200 is the part number and you need to remove the tbars to do the install.
 
In my 72 Swinger with a 440, I didn't use the offset master cylinder mount. I just used the factory a body power brake booster mount and mounted a master cylinder . It was up and away from the header and no issue pulling the valve cover!
 
In my 72 Swinger with a 440, I didn't use the offset master cylinder mount. I just used the factory a body power brake booster mount and mounted a master cylinder . It was up and away from the header and no issue pulling the valve cover!

More room is ALWAYS better.
 
thanks do ya knw the tti #u used what issues were there if any? did u remove the torsion bars to acomplish this task ?looks like ya got a nice fat tire under it what wheel backspace did ya use an tire size ?did you do a drum to disc conversion also?
Hi. I don't remember the part number off hand, just bought them for a 440 in a body with stock heads. Theses will not fit a 440 with Raised exhaust ports like Indy-1 heads. The only 3 small problems I had was.
(1) the grease zerk for the Pittman arm was rubbing a exhaust tube. So I just removed it and installed a short plug.
(2) my dart came with a Flaming River steering box. Had a tube to close to it for me. I just had to grind down a rib on the steering box, didn't take much though. Never ran the tri with a stock box. So don't know if you would have Fitment problems or not.
(3) with the TTI headers number 6 plug is hard to get too, to change etc. But a easy fix is just drill a 1.5 to to 2 inch access hole in your inner fender. After that changing number 6 plug is supper easy. I installed the 440/727 at the same time from the top and with the torsion bars intact. All I did was remove the steering column. I first put the tri headers in the engine bay then had two people hold the headers out of the way while I dropped the engine/trans in. Which went in super easy. I had every thing bolted in etc in under a hour.
The wheels are 15x8 with 4.5 inches of BS. The springs were moved in with the outer lip of the wheel well rolled in
 
If the engine and trans is in the car if you take out the torsion bars and drop the steering linkage by unbolting pitman and idler arms the headers slip right in no problem. Super easy.

Garth
 
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