Big Block duster

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76duster88

76duster88

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Trying to figure out what all will need to be done to install a 440 in my 76 duster...car was originally 318 3spd overdrive. Curious if the k member will need to be modified ect. Any insight on this would be great!
 
They sell conversion mounts to use the k-member you have.
At minimum you will need a radiator, headers, and a big block bell housing if you are going to keep the 4-speed, and a much stronger rear end.
 
...also might be a good idea to look into some stiffer torsion bars and some chassis stiffening...
 
I'm in the middle of this build with all the hard work done. Schumacher creative services makes swap mounts that are easy to use, they just bolt on and in. They also offer a torque arm that mounts to the engine and will require a single hole to be drilled in the K frame to mount it.

Other parts needed will be a shortened driveshaft or a new one, IF you have a 904. The 727 & the 4spd share the same trans yoke. Length I'm not sure of. Also a upgraded rear though a 8-1/4 will hold under normal driving. I recommend a 8-3/4 or DANA rear.
Upgrade the rear springs and shocks all around. The /6 T-bars are excellent for drag racing and acceptable for grand ma driving in the street. I suggest away bars for the street. Front and rear. The stock trans crossmember will be reused.

Get a big radiator! More the merry! Some of the engine compartment wires will need to be spliced and lengthened or shortened depending on there location and desired route they take.

Tti makes great headers for this application and full exhaust systems right to the rear bumper in 2-1/2 or 3 inch pipe.

I suggest a aftermarket shifter for the auto trans. I used the cheapest B&M shifter. A few zip ties keep the cable from being burnt.

That's all I can think off and basicly as far as I got... To be continued in the summer...

Oh, and what Jim Lusk said, which I would now like to thank for posting those "How to's" on BBD.com for it made the swap a bit easier and my "B" body headers fit right in!

Thanks Jim!
 
The Schumacher mounts for the late V8 k-member are NOT a bolt on and go deal. They require cutting the mount saddle shorter on the driver side and drilling a new 1/2" hole...Making a DC k-member is only slightly more cutting and no drilling. Yes, you need to weld it back up, but that's the easy part...
 
Thanks for the correction Jim, I darn screwed up and he even writes he has a '75, my Duster is a '71.
 
I plan on running a 727 with the big block...already have a 83/4 just have to get it cut down due to it's out of a 1966 dodge polara. I've heard stories that if you put a big block in an A body that it won't stop as well or handle as well with the added weight but I don't plan on going out and hooking corners with it anyways lol😋..I'll def look into the conversion kit for the k member...still not sure what my plans are for the car..I have a 340 that was in it at one time I'm just a big block guy and can get the 440 for free from a relative....thanks everyone for the answers they were much needed and helpful!...will keep everyone updated on my progress with the car and will post pics when it's done
 
Read the tech page on building a DC k-member. It is a much better solution for several reasons (my opinion and the opinion of anybody who has built one).

They can be made to stop and handle. Check out the vids (the first one is my son's 383/4sp Barracuda, the second one is the first half of the DC k-member video):

[ame]http://youtu.be/ajBllTF3574[/ame]

[ame]http://youtu.be/mnaM_jHLi08[/ame]
 
Those .990's are in my Dart now with a 440. They set the ride height smack in the middle of the adjustment range.
 
Jim, thanks for the video's. Do you have part two to this as well?
 
Jim Lusk said:
The Schumacher mounts for the late V8 k-member are NOT a bolt on and go deal. They require cutting the mount saddle shorter on the driver side and drilling a new 1/2" hole...Making a DC k-member is only slightly more cutting and no drilling. Yes, you need to weld it back up, but that's the easy part...
Click to expand...

I had major issues with mine on the SB-BB mounts. I really wasn't happy with the mount after the cutting was done. Thank god with the torque strap. I'm currently swapping the QA1 K-memeber which i'm told requires no modification to utilize the conversion mounts.

Jim Lusk said:
Read the tech page on building a DC k-member. It is a much better solution for several reasons (my opinion and the opinion of anybody who has built one).

They can be made to stop and handle. Check out the vids (the first one is my son's 383/4sp Barracuda, the second one is the first half of the DC k-member video):

http://youtu.be/ajBllTF3574

http://youtu.be/mnaM_jHLi08
Click to expand...

Everyone here on FABO knows that big blocks are too heavy to handle, stop or hook up. They end up just being nose heavy boat anchors. Stop lying to everyone. Oh, wait... you posted a video.... :D:coffee2:
 
rumblefish360 said:
I suggest a aftermarket shifter for the auto trans. I used the cheapest B&M shifter. A few zip ties keep the cable from being burnt.

Be sure to use at least 2 ground straps from the engine to the chassis or your new shifter cable will do the job. Ask me how I know this?

Ted
Click to expand...
 
76duster88 said:
I've heard stories that if you put a big block in an A body that it won't stop as
well or handle as well with the added weight......
Click to expand...
I've heard that a 440 with aluminum heads, intake, water pump and steel tube headers
is within 17 lbs of a fully dressed stock small block with cast iron exhaust manifolds.
 
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