Big block rebuild - where do you buy your parts?

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4fortyDemon

4fortyDemon

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I'm building a 383 and it's basically going to be a stock build with the exception of a old ( but new) MP 484/284 cam and lifters from about 8 years ago. It's been forever since I bought parts to rebuild an engine. I used to go to the local speed shop ( we're talking early 80s)and just buy what I needed . I used felpro gaskets and Clevite bearings and honestly can't recall what manufacturer rings bought. Everything worked fine with my 3 builds that I've done.
I'm looking at Summit for gathering gaskets, bearings, rings and such.
Who do you all recommend to buy from these days?
Also, one last question.. which gasket, bearings and ring manufacturer do you use?
Standard bore, standard on crank, street driven, sure, I'll beat on it but likely no track time.
Thanks all!
 
barbee6043 said:
IF you take it to a machine shop for any work, I would get their input also.
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I'm pulling it apart this weekend. Going to mic the crank, have the rods sent out and resized with new DC rod bolts, I'm looking for the bore taper instrument ( I can't recall the name) and check that before I go to the machine shop with the block.
 
I would check 440source to see if they have what you need.. good to support one of the only real mopar companies that makes good products to keep things going :)
 
I didn't see pistons mentioned. That's a big cam for stock compression. Jes sayin.
 
If the rods are round I wouldn't worry about changing the rod bolts for your build. I've pounded the daylights out of dozens of stock rods and bolts and never had a bolt fail.

You'll likely have a beam issue before a bolt issue.

I think it's hard to beat a Fel-Pro gasket kit, including their head gaskets. Lots of clamping force on a big block. No need for fancy gaskets on your build.

Personally I like using the King bearings over any other brand.

Rings whatever you can find will be fine.

Don't over think or over spend on it. The aftermarket parts you're going to buy are as good or better than what the OEM used.

Tom
 
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PROSTOCKTOM said:
If the rods are round I wouldn't worry about changing the rod bolts for your build. I've pounded the daylights out of dozens of stock rods and bolts and never had a bolt fail.

You'll likely have a beam issue before a bolt issue.

I think it's hard to beat a Fel-Pro gasket kit, including their head gaskets. Lots of clamping force on a big block. No need for fancy gaskets on your build.

Personally I like using the King bearings over any other brand.

Rings whatever you can find will be fine.

Don't over think or over spend on it. The aftermarket parts you going to buy are as good or better than what the OEM used.

Tom
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Thanks Tom. I'm just doing a budget build . I had good success with less..lol It's a late 69 - so 70 4bbl engine. So after I figure how far the pistons are in the hole, I'll figure how much I want to surface the heads and intake.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I didn't see pistons mentioned. That's a big cam for stock compression. Jes sayin.
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Stock pistons Rusty.. I'm going to measure how much they are in the hole, ( late 69 engine) and just cut the heads to try to make some compression. Simple , low buck build. Don't have a lot of $ to play with, but had good success in a 68 383 and a 66 440 years ago with stock components for a street engine. I see your tech stuff on here and know you've thrown quite a few together.
It's going in a 71 Demon. Has a stock built 727 with shift kit, no convertor yet. And 410 8 3/4 sure grip. Street driven purpose and beat the hell out of it at time. I have a dual plane edelbrock intake and am looking for a 750 DP to round it out
Working on finding a good distributor that I can adjust the advance to suit it and have a set of headers given to me. Idk if they're 15/8 or 1 7/8 primary tubes. That's all I have for info for you guys right now.
 
4fortyDemon said:
Stock pistons Rusty.. I'm going to measure how much they are in the hole, ( late 69 engine) and just cut the heads to try to make some compression. Simple , low buck build. Don't have a lot of $ to play with, but had good success in a 68 383 and a 66 440 years ago with stock components for a street engine. I see your tech stuff on here and know you've thrown quite a few together.
It's going in a 71 Demon. Has a stock built 727 with shift kit, no convertor yet. And 410 8 3/4 sure grip. Street driven purpose and beat the hell out of it at time. I have a dual plane edelbrock intake and am looking for a 750 DP to round it out
Working on finding a good distributor that I can adjust the advance to suit it and have a set of headers given to me. Idk if they're 15/8 or 1 7/8 primary tubes. That's all I have for info for you guys right now.
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Instead of cutting the heads you might wanna just look at thin head gaskets.. i'm using .028 compressed on mine to bring the compression up a bit.
 
Felpro gaskets, and
4fortyDemon said:
Stock pistons Rusty.. I'm going to measure how much they are in the hole, ( late 69 engine) and just cut the heads to try to make some compression. Simple , low buck build. Don't have a lot of $ to play with, but had good success in a 68 383 and a 66 440 years ago with stock components for a street engine. I see your tech stuff on here and know you've thrown quite a few together.
It's going in a 71 Demon. Has a stock built 727 with shift kit, no convertor yet. And 410 8 3/4 sure grip. Street driven purpose and beat the hell out of it at time. I have a dual plane edelbrock intake and am looking for a 750 DP to round it out
Working on finding a good distributor that I can adjust the advance to suit it and have a set of headers given to me. Idk if they're 15/8 or 1 7/8 primary tubes. That's all I have for info for you guys right now.
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If you can afford a .030 you can run these forged pistons and gain some compression height. Yes, a full set of forged pistons for $120, and you can even use the 20% off on them. I did.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEPL2315NF30
 
Cutting the heads works, but it's by FAR not the best idea. I would simply get the 383HP replacement pistons. They're not that expensive. They sit around .014" in the hole at TDC.
 
MidnightSwinger said:
Felpro gaskets, and

If you can afford a .030 you can run these forged pistons and gain some compression height. Yes, a full set of forged pistons for $120, and you can even use the 20% off on them. I did.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEPL2315NF30
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I literally just sold my 30 over 383 because I didn't want to spend $ on pistons. I figured they're expensive...especially a 383 vs a 440
 
4fortyDemon said:
I literally just sold my 30 over 383 because I didn't want to spend $ on pistons. I figured they're expensive...especially a 383 vs a 440
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And you somehow think the bores in a fifty plus year old engine have no taper and are not out of round? Why are you even on here asking for opinions if you're just going to do what you've already made up your mind to do? You're going to build an engine with nowhere near enough compression for the cam, plus one that has worn out bores. How long do you thin it will run "good"? Have fun!
 
4fortyDemon said:
I literally just sold my 30 over 383 because I didn't want to spend $ on pistons. I figured they're expensive...especially a 383 vs a 440
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Can’t beat under $120 to your door.

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70848456628__79A4670E-6636-4363-BFFC-633A052EEB11.jpeg
 
RustyRatRod said:
And you somehow think the bores in a fifty plus year old engine have no taper and are not out of round? Why are you even on here asking for opinions if you're just going to do what you've already made up your mind to do? You're going to build an engine with nowhere near enough compression for the cam, plus one that has worn out bores. How long do you thin it will run "good"? Have fun!
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Rusty, all I really was asking was where do you guys buy parts now as opposed to decades ago . You guys have a wealth of knowledge that I'm actually thankful to hear. But. This is a temporary engine just so I can get some wheels rolling under my ***. Is this how I would want an engine built.. no. But that isn't the question.
Again, I honestly value everyone's input. It's just not where this " junkyard " engine is going. A sincere thanks.
 
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