Great!! Very very helpful and I completely agree . Old now, is better. Thanks for the tip Rusty
Big block rebuild - where do you buy your parts?
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Just to get an idea use the end of the calipers, the little part sticking out the bottom, have that on the piston top and the edge of the caliper on the deck..
AND before anyone bitches... it won't be 100% accurate but should get you within a few thou so at least you know what you are looking at
View attachment 1716133662
Thanks Icetech! I'm checking it nowJust to get an idea use the end of the calipers, the little part sticking out the bottom, have that on the piston top and the edge of the caliper on the deck..
AND before anyone bitches... it won't be 100% accurate but should get you within a few thou so at least you know what you are looking at
View attachment 1716133662
Yup. That'll do it. Just stand it on end CAREFULLY and as straight as you can. That will probably get it pretty accurate. Glad you have that. It will help.
Just to get an idea use the end of the calipers, the little part sticking out the bottom, have that on the piston top and the edge of the caliper on the deck..
AND before anyone bitches... it won't be 100% accurate but should get you within a few thou so at least you know what you are looking at
View attachment 1716133662
I checked 4x. It's very close to 60-65
That's excellent! That's a builder right there.
All you guys are awesome. That's why I love this site. We all try to help each other whether builds or parts or laughs... thank you all
Whoo hoo!
What do you think of the 484 cam install now?
If you get the cylinder head chamber down to 80CCs and run the thin steel gasket, your compression will be around 8.9:1. That's pretty good!
I still think it needs advancing more, but you're in a much better position.
Actually, 8.975 is what I loosely calculated.
Understood. I know all this is loosely based. But much better than 8.0 or so...lol
Now this all depends on how your chambers measure now. I agree with @PROSTOCKTOM that milling heads for compression isn't the best idea. If you have to go from say 90CCs to 80 for example, that's probably a .060" cut and I don't recommend it. .030 would be about all I'd go. That and using the thin head gasket will be fine.
Well.......kinda. Keep in mind that the general rule of thumb is only a 3% power increase from 1 full point of compression. So really, I would look into head flow. Maybe save up and have those heads ported or better yet, some aluminum heads. It's well worth the money. If you're going to run iron heads, you don't want worn out guides and seats and it will cost probably as much to rework those as it would to step up to aluminum. Just food for thought. As they say, "it's all in the heads" and that's very true.
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
A few numbers. I’m assuming a fel pro .027 gasket and the first calculation is with stock big block heads 88cc chambers and the second would be with 75cc chambers.
You have to include gasket volume too. Your numbers are a little high because that's not included.
All speculation at best anyway since we don't have hard numbers on everything. I bet we're close, though.
True. Well, im gonna get this torn down and see how the rest of it is. It looks like lower mileage on this rebuild.
One thing's for sure. You're much better off than blueprinting down in the 7s. You're above 8:1 already.
Heck yeah!
It'll still be over cammed, but we can make up for it through cam timing and ignition timing. It'll be an good old school "too much cam" build. Those can be pretty fun. You may decide not to build another one if you do it right. The 383 HP had 425LBFT stock. That's tire melting territory.
Rusty, this exactly just that you said. Old-school cammed up fun driver. Stop light to stop light fun and just cruising. Let's see how this goes after it's together and give updates as it goes.
Maybe later when $ loosens up... lol... does it ever? I'll maybe build a southern and better built big block. For now, it's almost like a see what parts I have with a decent short block and have fun time.
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