Big block rebuild - where do you buy your parts?

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4fortyDemon said:
Rusty, all I really was asking was where do you guys buy parts now as opposed to decades ago . You guys have a wealth of knowledge that I'm actually thankful to hear. But. This is a temporary engine just so I can get some wheels rolling under my ***. Is this how I would want an engine built.. no. But that isn't the question.
Again, I honestly value everyone's input. It's just not where this " junkyard " engine is going. A sincere thanks.
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I understand. If you insist on putting it together like this, then I recommend you install that camshaft down around 102 or even 100 ICL. That will give it a much better chance of being something other than an engine that won't pull a greasy string outta a cat's ***. Also, give it a good HOT ignition curve. I would use one of the FBO total timing limiter plates. Use the 14 slot. Plan on setting the initial timing at 20 degrees for a total of 34. It will likely take more, but that will be safe to start with. ....this is of course assuming you don't have a 383HP, in which case the pistons will sit HIGH in the bore at tdc. Since we have no pictures, we don't know for sure.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I understand. If you insist on putting it together like this, then I recommend you install that camshaft down around 102 or even 100 ICL. That will give it a much better chance of being something other than an engine that won't pull a greasy string outta a cat's ***. Also, give it a good HOT ignition curve. I would use one of the FBO total timing limiter plates. Use the 14 slot. Plan on setting the initial timing at 20 degrees for a total of 34. It will likely take more, but that will be safe to start with. ....this is of course assuming you don't have a 383HP, in which case the pistons will sit HIGH in the bore at tdc. Since we have no pictures, we don't know for sure.
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Again, Rusty... I thank you. Really do. Tomorrow is tear down day and I'll post a pic before I disassemble it ( piston in bore)
 
4fortyDemon said:
So after I figure how far the pistons are in the hole, I'll figure how much I want to surface the heads and intake.
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Don't cut the heads and intake if you're looking for more compression. Cut the block deck, way more compression to be gained than cutting the heads. The best part of cutting the deck is it effectively lowers the heads causing the intake to sit higher up over the intake parts. This allows you to port match the intake roof on the heads to the intake sitting higher up. The heads kind of curve down at the top of the intake port anyway and this will allow you to straighten that curve out. The effort is more than rewarded in compression gain and an improved port follow.

Tom
 
Upon inspection so far, there's a 40 on each piston. And no engine callout on the area where it would show say E383 or so. Block possibly decked. I can see machining marks on the deck area

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Can you get us a picture of the piston at TDC in the bore? Do you have a way to measure the deck clearance? That's the difference between the piston head and the deck surface.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Can you get us a picture of the piston at TDC in the bore? Do you have a way to measure the deck clearance? That's the difference between the piston head and the deck surface.
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Not a great pic . I understand how to look at the pistons sitting in the bore ( depth wise) but I don't have really any measuring tools to get an exact depth measurement

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4fortyDemon said:
I picked up a set. I'll measure them when I get them out
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Yeah, must have to measure stuffs.. just measure across the bore and you will know.. i would bet they are 40 over, no other reason to stamp the pistons, nothing wrong with that.. can also check how deep in the hole the pistons are
 
4fortyDemon said:
Not a great pic . I understand how to look at the pistons sitting in the bore ( depth wise) but I don't have really any measuring tools to get an exact depth measurement

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Well, that's not the HP pistons, but it's not too bad, either. With no dish, I would "guess" it's probably an 8.5:1 engine. It likely won't measure that out, unless someone did it last rebuild. Since there's solid evidence of decking, it's entirely possible.
 
4fortyDemon said:
Correct. TDC to be exact.

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My guess here is someone had it decked some and they also chose a replacement piston with a tall compression height. These are normally .100" or more in the hole I believe, unless they are the HP pistons. You could be in decent shape here. You're going to need that deck clearance measurement though, to correctly figure compression.
 
RustyRatRod said:
My guess here is someone had it decked some and they also chose a replacement piston with a tall compression height. These are normally .100" or more in the hole I believe, unless they are the HP pistons. You could be in decent shape here. You're going to need that deck clearance measurement though, to correctly figure compression.
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Rusty. How can I get a measurement? Sorry for engine 101 questions
 
4fortyDemon said:
Rusty. How can I get a measurement? Sorry for engine 101 questions
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Just to get an idea use the end of the calipers, the little part sticking out the bottom, have that on the piston top and the edge of the caliper on the deck..

AND before anyone bitches... it won't be 100% accurate but should get you within a few thou so at least you know what you are looking at :)
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Icetech said:
Just to get an idea use the end of the calipers, the little part sticking out the bottom, have that on the piston top and the edge of the caliper on the deck..

AND before anyone bitches... it won't be 100% accurate but should get you within a few thou so at least you know what you are looking at :)
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I was gonna recommend the same, but didn't for the reason you mentioned. LOL
 
Icetech said:
Just to get an idea use the end of the calipers, the little part sticking out the bottom, have that on the piston top and the edge of the caliper on the deck..

AND before anyone bitches... it won't be 100% accurate but should get you within a few thou so at least you know what you are looking at :)
View attachment 1716133662
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Close ‘nuff!
 
Oh and to answer your original question.......I normally buy ALL my engine parts on ebay. I search for OLD NOS engine parts primarily for two reasons. Usually cheaper and they are better made than today's horse crap. .....and very often are made in USA. I search Michigan, TRW, Sealed Power, Clevite for bearings and Hastings, Sealed Power and the like for rings. Hope that helps.
 
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