Biohazard

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Whew,just spent the better part of 3+ hours going thru your whole posting. I must say I love what you have gotten done to that Fish. It's going to be a car to enjoy for sure and I love the new wheel covers. :) Can't wait to see it done and on the road. Good Luck getting the Fish done. Jim
 

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Better than reader's digest with a lot more pictures. Thanks for the interest! I work on it every day that I can get away with it - keepin things moving.
 
My "neutral safety" wiring harness; only three thin wires but a 6" section of them was badly worn due to the tape coming off and exposing its contents, probably too close to the exhaust system. I cut out the bad sections and spliced in some fresh wire. No butt splices, all connections twisted, soldered, and shrink-wrapped.

Note how I staggered the splices; this keeps from forming a big "knuckle" under the tape after it's wrapped back up. Master craft, kids.

Pics show the old, chewed up wires next to the repair sections.



 
Sometimes, its the little things but good battery connections cannot be overrated.

 
Giving new meaning to the term "vintage vinyl".



This is about half the old electrical tape peeled from the underhood wiring harness. Peeled, inspected, re-wrapped. Still need to install the fusible link before I can complete the re-wrap.
 
Note from the author: I hate the way this site hyperlinks every other word. So weird.
 
The aluminum trunk finish panel:
Some crafty body shop guy thought it would be a win to do the red strips on the panel with reflective red tape. Well it looks like crap and will not come off. It is on there like mad. I can't peel it and neither goof-off nor WD-40 will touch it despite soaking in it for days. So, I bought a flap wheel sander bit for the dremel and carefully sanded at the tape hoping I could then make some headway with the penetrating oils.

What a mess.

 
If you have access to a plastic media blaster (common in aviation) it would have worked great and not touched the anodized aluminum (but always try a test area first). Looks like you are making headway anyhow. Back in the 80's my 69 also had red tape on there, kind of like electrical tape but the right width.
 
The flat silver in the center is already in need of re-doing. Sad thing is, the panel's not perfect. There is some krinkle at the lower left under the dealership placard. Not big at all but, again, not perfect. It's a nice enough panel to try and make nice all over so I'm going to give it my best using the old arts n' crafts approach.
 
The penetrating oil approach is doing nuthin. The tape has got to be sanded off...which I will do but, looking at the bigger picture, this particular sub-project is getting moved to the proverbial back-burner.
 
So I would treat the tape as if it were a pin stripe. There is a rubber wheel available from body shop suppliers,much like a large erasor. Can be run in a drill chuck. It might just remove that tape for you without any damage to your metal,or paint either
 
Have you tried a heat gun on that tape yet?????? Some times heat will work best to soften nasty tape. Good Luck Jim
 
The thought did cross my mind and I do have a heat gun but didn't bring it with me.
Going back to the house today so I'll be giving that a shot and see what happens.
 
Yes heat gun and a straight razor with LOTS of patience will do the trick...
 
The straight razor method does take some amount of practice to master. I nicked and gouged paint a plenty learning it. Then we switched to that big erasor wheel. No more nics or gouges. You do need to keep the wheel moving or you will burn through the paint eventually. And seeing how your subtrate is aluminum,which would probably nick easily,the wheel is your best choice. I see you already did some grinding to remove the tape. I hope the metal is still good? Too course of a grinder and it can remove a lot of aluminum in a hurry!
 
I can vouch for the eraser wheel method too. I used to restore bikes a lot, and it takes the decals off more easily than anything else I ever tried.
 
Well gents, the paint under the tape is some very old, faded and oxidized red. What that means is A, the tape really has bonded to it due to its porosity and B, I'm not trying to save it. I planned from the outset to repaint the red bands but needed a surface I could paint on.
 
I am in receipt of a new -
Voltage regulator
Ballast resistor
Starter relay
and those cg8 terminals.

Early Christmas.
 
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