Blast cabinet warp panels?

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Garry

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Have large cabinet,will fit 64 cuda doors,fenders,dash,would it warp these pcs if I took it easy, using skat (crushed glass)? started a fender- does seem to be OK.
 
This may be one of those things that every one has a deferent opinion on.

I have always herd that it can. But since people media blast hole cars, I would have to say you should be OK. Just do not go crazy on the pressure. I think when people get into trouble the use way to aggressive of a media. If I am removing just paint and not rust I use a plastic media, or crushed walnut shells. Works well on just paint, with out etching into the metal.
 
there are instructional videos on the web that will help.
From what I've seen , blasting body panels is a lot like spray painting in technique.
 
The blast cabinet wont warp panels....the guy holding the gun will!!! lol
I've been told DONT hold your gun i one place for to long. Holding your gun in one place will HEAT your panels. HEAT warps panels
 
The blast cabinet wont warp panels....the guy holding the gun will!!! lol
I've been told DONT hold your gun i one place for to long. Holding your gun in one place will HEAT your panels. HEAT warps panels


yup... lot of technique there...
 
Have you considered a soda blaster attachment?
 
I did both doors and fenders. ya know there is a lot of metal and curves in these pcs. one would have to really be careless to warp them. It just takes a little longer that's all. As far as roughing the metal a little- that is ok, the two medium coats of veriprime (self etching primer) can really soak in.
 
Garry, when you're done with those body panels and might want to get rid of that big cabinet, please let me know. I've been looking into it for a few years now and need one badly. :-D

You're getting pretty good advice on the blasting technique. Just don't hold the gun in one place for too long and use long sweeping passes on the flatter areas.
 
Hey cudachick, love your car. Wow a woman that luvs cars and mopars too! got lots of ideas for improving on a cabinet after using this one for 10 yrs. Ya know you could make one , they are basic.
 
Thanks for the kind words Garry! :-D

Truth be told, I've had building my own blast cabinet in the back of my head for a few years now -- I really need one. Blasting outside really sucks between the mess, suiting up, and being in plain view of the highway (not to mention winter's interference).

Unfortunately, knowing it took me and my friend Richard 5 1/2 months to build my 7-foot oven working most every evening / night, it's probably going to be awhile before that happens.
 
Hey Garry post pics of your cabinet if you can?? I have a home made one as well...smaller, but works pretty good I will post pics of it later
 
Gary, Cuda- maybe a little roadtrip and side money would make for a beautiful working relationship? Just saying if it was 'do-able,' it could work out well for both
 
hey, v-100...so we are little cupid now? shooting arrows all over? Not a bad idea though. You think I could get her to swap pictures? Oh, of cars of course.
 
4spdragtop, I'll get that picture of the cabinet when I get a chance here. I think I can post on this same thread.(different reply)
 
How about a blast room and instead of containing the dust and media in a cabinet, wear a suit with a mask and respirator hose pumping in outside breathable air? That way you can blast HUGE pieces.
 
Yep. My local powder coat company uses a 40 foot Conex box for a blast room. They can put a couple of buggy frames in along with a bunch of other stuff.

A pressure blaster & supplied air - the blast guy suits up and they shut the door behind him. Sweep, sift & reload the monster tank. They run a towable diesel compressor for air...

He says it only takes a couple of minutes to blast a 15 inch wheel.

No reason you could not do the same thing on a smaller scale, say 10 x 10 feet.
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I've looked into that too guys, thanks. Even considered turning the 53' storage trailer into a blast room.

If there was a shop full of employees it would be another story, but it's that suiting-up-and-being-unavailable-for-anything-else thing that I don't like. Local customers don't walk in that often but I like to be somewhat presentable and not embarrassed to shake their hand when they show up.
 
Wait.. whut?

You don't sit on a little stool in a miniskirt taking orders & buffing your nails all day? While your minions do all the work in the next building? Huh?

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Ok, sarcasm aside - I understand your problem all too well. I am part of a multi-generational bunch of small business owners. My mother ran her own retail gun store for 45 years, myself and my sister both have our own businesses, etc.

So you need a glove box of some sort. I own a rather large SkatBlast cabinet, and it is a good unit. They all need maintenance. My experience with glove boxes over the past 4 decades would lead me to build my own in your situation.

I would build a walk in booth, with a full size door on one end, and a 7 foot ceiling. about 36 to 48 inches deep, and probably 8 feet wide. I would put six pairs of gloves through the wall, perhaps even more. With decent widows over each set of gloves.

Place the 3 sets of lower gloves & windows at a comfortable height to use while sitting on a mechanic's stool. Place the other 3 sets at a comfortable working height for you while standing - don't forget the fatigue mats when laying out the height.

If you are very short, a work platform & higher glove mounting might be necessary. Comfort while blasting is important. I am over 6 feet tall, and had to jack up my skat cabinet almost a foot - my brother brings a milk crate to stand on while using it.

Use a pressure blaster. Siphon guns are air wasters. In the case of the booth described above you will need at least two, and maybe three pressure pots. Once you blast that way it is hard to go back. I have a 50 pounder plumbed into my skat unit, and I only use the siphon for a quick touch up if I miss a spot.

For lighting, use plain old PAR type floodlights. Mount them on the glove wall facing the work. Use plenty of them. The heat helps keep the booth dry too.

B.
 
The large cabinet is nice , however I would have moved the gloves further out and put an even (left/right) glove in the middle. because one is always trying to reach to the limits of the ends. After all that is why one buys a larger cabinet. check out the project in pic two. spent 2 weeks scraping casmalene (spelling ?) with a heat gun, but that is what saved that car, every possible detail of metal exists under that car. Some places it was 3/8" thick.
 

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Wait.. whut?

You don't sit on a little stool in a miniskirt taking orders & buffing your nails all day? While your minions do all the work in the next building? Huh?

----...

Nah, not anymore. I used to do that when I worked for lawyers though. :D

Seriously though, thank you for that amazing write up! I'm just hoping to sell so many posters I can get one of those big 60" ScatBlast cabinets from TP Tools and don't have to reinvent the wheel. Errr blast cabinet.
 
Garry:

we have the same cabinet. I bought mine a long time ago. I ordered the biggest dust collector they had, and a 50 lb pressure unit.

The second week I owned it I raised the unit up & ordered 4 new glove rings...

Add one between the two existing gloves, and one on either side on the front. Add one left hand on the end opposite the door, in the far corner. Nothing you can't reach that way. The left is for blind groping for junk in the corner - to avoid crawling in to get stuff. I have considered adding a window on that end and the right hand glove as well, but never got to it.

I also use a 24x36 sheet of 1/8" rubber in the middle of the unit. Keeps small parts where you can reach them, and keeps the sand from eating the grate - with a pressure pot this can happen.

Leanna:
Lawyers? most of them make me want to take two showers after meeting them - hope you worked for a good one.

The big cabinet is handy.
I would add a pressure pot, and a blow off line inside. When you order, get an extra foot pedal valve assembly. Plumb it to a hose & nozzle inside the cabinet so you can blow the dust off of the parts, and clean up the inside of the cabinet. A regular air blow gun is no good for this - it will turn to crap in the sand environment. I just use a 3/32" orifice in the end of a hose in the cabinet. Keep the mess inside.

B.
 
It proves Leanna is smart as well as good lookin. The key word is "used". She used to work for them. I never met a decent human being lawyer.They are all %$#@!(&%%$#@. Greedy ba#@$%^&@!. Now da gonit ya got me started.
 
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Leanna:
Lawyers? most of them make me want to take two showers after meeting them - hope you worked for a good one.

The big cabinet is handy.
I would add a pressure pot, and a blow off line inside. When you order, get an extra foot pedal valve assembly. Plumb it to a hose & nozzle inside the cabinet so you can blow the dust off of the parts, and clean up the inside of the cabinet. A regular air blow gun is no good for this - it will turn to crap in the sand environment. I just use a 3/32" orifice in the end of a hose in the cabinet. Keep the mess inside.

B.

I've been trying to get back with you on this for a few days and it just hasn't worked out.

The "big dog" 50 pound pot blaster is the one I drag outside when I have to blast bike frames, rear end housings, etc. Though powder coating is not [yet?] regulated by the EPA per se, it's totally illegal to sand blast in the state of Tennessee with any silica-based media ... and my shop is about 800 feet off a highway so I try to keep it low-profile, quick and out of sight if I can. Though I don't ever use silica based medias -- just Black Beauty slag -- I certainly don't need the state's attention.

We've weighed the benefits and drawbacks of building a separate blast room. But considering the cost of the building, the slab, the extra pvc to plumb the air in, exhaust / fresh air setup, etc., I think I'm better off just buying (or building) a very large cabinet that will hold the big stuff. I don't have any plans to get into chassis or sprint car frames at any point in the future -- this is farm country ["Wut's power coatin?" as they spit Skoal on my shoes LMAO] and anyone shipping such big pieces isn't likely to happen -- so I'm thinking it should be fine for the duration.

I'd love to talk with you about all this in more detail though. You've got some great ideas and a vast amount of experience to tap into. Thanks for sharing.
 
Leanna:

Been there, done that. 23 years ago I was teflon coating firearms in California. I had both blast & phosphate processes, as well as a spray booth - all in the South Coast Air Quality Management District.

I had a parade of jerks with badges that did not want to see me do business. At least once a month somebody was there to inspect something.

I fully understand why you would not want the "attention". It sounds like your operation is somewhat rural, so your blast area could be a simple lean-to behind an existing building if need be.

Just like powder coating, recovering your media saves some bucks. Pour a sloped slab behind a building, and tarp the three open sides. Do your outdoor blasting there & recover some of the media - in privacy.

I don't know how big your ovens are, but obviously you only need to blast the biggest part you regularly handle. a big cabinet obviously costs more than a smaller one. If you have space, more than one cabinet can be an asset.

While it may seem to be backwards, I would suggest a small cabinet to start. If you have no experience with a glove box it is a quick way to learn what you want in a bigger unit - the decision to build or buy.

For 200 bucks you can get a cabinet from Harbor Freight. The siphon gun is crap, and the dust exhaust is weak. Plumb the exhaust outside the building with a bigger fan & poke a hole in the cabinet for your pressure blast hose. Start at about 35 psi on an old valve cover or alternator bracket. You may be surprised.

Having more than one blast setup in the finishing business can be a time saver. A fine media in a smaller cabinet for small or soft parts, etc. The time to change out abrasives, clean equipment etc. is time well spent elsewhere.

How do you clean & de-grease parts now? Do you phosphate anything?

B.
 
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