AdamR
Big Member
My 69 Barracuda had the trunk extensions filled with expandable foam and the filled over that. The filler was 1/4" thick.
Body Work Tutorial
- Thread starter 67Dart440GT
- Start date
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CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Sealer is not where you wanna use cheap stuff!
I use PPG DP90LF. Sprayable to bare metal. No need for acid wash/etch etc.. In 27 days you can't chip it with a hammer so do your bodywork/prep-work quickly thereafter.
You can use Shopline primers, sealers, basecoats, reducers through the process but use a Good Clearcoat. I prefer Concept 2021 which is a Excellent Mid-level Urethane.
The Shopline basecoats are a little transparent depending on which colors you choose. I just add a third coat for coverage.
As you can tell I like PPG but there are other good vendors you can choose from. www.autobodytoolmart.com sells some usable "Economy" products.
OOPS! This is "Bodywork" Thread, Sorry folks! You can also get some good bodywork materials from the site listed above too.
Thanks everyone, I have lots more to upload but have been a bit busy. More pictures to follow including some priming photo's.
I have also used PPG along with their DP lines... back when DP WAS DP not DPLF. The lead free version is still good... just not like the DP. Coverage was a bit different. I tend to reduce it a bit also. I will be showing some use of DPLF tomorrow.
I tend to use the DPLF down first, then a decent filler primer, back to DPLF for sealer, Omni line basecoat with a PPG Clear. Never tried 2021... I have always used 2042 (sucks ***) or 2002... closest to the "old" 2001... a great clear.
AdamR
Big Member
DP is epoxy isnt it ?
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
I rarely do bodywork to bare metal outside of sheetmetal replacement. I never use "Bondo" due to its lack of adhesion. I prefer Evercoat 100416 metal glaze. I use a EagleII to remove all dents with no holes and for shrinking purposes. On the thicker sheetmetal the stud gun has to come out! I remove the entire dent and use a fine bodyfile to confirm low or high spots and continue until a smooth finish is aquired. Then apply the DPLF sealer. Once it has kicked then I apply a light coat of the glaze for a final sanding before the filler primer. Block down the filler primer with 600 wet and apply the DPLF before the basecoat color. Clear, Done.
4000 is probably the best clear PPG has imo. Just pricey!
2021 is a awesome overall! Crystal Clear and lays like glass!!
Yea I have found the DPLF needs a bit of reducer to lay down... otherwise you will struggle with orange peel as it IS very thick. I also use the metal glaze from evercoat... good stuff.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
Hey would a 7" electric sander work for that instead of the air sander? I dont have a comressor big enough to handle that. I have one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/7-inch-variable-speed-polisher-sander-92623.html
Oh and your PM box is full fyi.
Oh and your PM box is full fyi.
Is it straight line or orbital?
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
I don't think I would use that. Thats more like a grinder/buffer. If your talking about prepping filler use a hand file like 67Dart440GT has in his pics. They are cheap and provide a flat smooth surface when used right. Nothing like a little elbow grease lol. I also found some nice aluminum sanding blocks at the local Hobby Shop that sells R/C Airplane kits. They work well too!
I personally use a Orbital Hutchins air file, best on the planet imo... When using pnuematic or electric grinding/sanding tools you must be aware that they cause a considerable amount of heat through friction that can cause warped sheetmetal. Use a slow speed until you are able to adjust speed with movement of the tool.
I have to agree... I very rarely use any sort of mechanical tool to do filler work, you want cheap? Get a body file like mentioned and a board sander, a few hand blocks. Someone who knows how to do filler work can get away with knocking something down first with a mud hog or an airfile.. but I would do ALL of it by hand if you are a novice.
Ha Ha at myself.. I almost poo'ed when I clicked the link.. No please don't use that.
72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
I ment for stripping to bare metal?
Here are the lower quarter patches I got for the car. I cut them pretty low. You will find with most of these "aftermarket" panels... they sometimes can be too long, the bends are not sharp like the originals, and possibly thinner. I like to obviously get all the rust out but with these cheap panels I like to keep them as small as possible too. This makes less work in the end.
In the front, and the rear of the old quarter I cut them up just a bit higher and set them up as a butt weld, the reason I did this is I could not get my air flanger all the way to the ends of the panel. The rest or "center" of the lap weld area is flanged down. This will keep me from having to recess the weld after to get my filler work done.
The bottom of the panels I used the other end of my air flanger that is also a hole punch for some plug welds.
I have to replace the trunk extensions also and the lower part of the wheel wells I will be making by hand, so I will have more pictures later.
In the front, and the rear of the old quarter I cut them up just a bit higher and set them up as a butt weld, the reason I did this is I could not get my air flanger all the way to the ends of the panel. The rest or "center" of the lap weld area is flanged down. This will keep me from having to recess the weld after to get my filler work done.
The bottom of the panels I used the other end of my air flanger that is also a hole punch for some plug welds.
I have to replace the trunk extensions also and the lower part of the wheel wells I will be making by hand, so I will have more pictures later.
No for a few reasons, it's a polisher, and second you want something like a D.A. D.A. stands for Dual Action... this is because not only does the sander spin, but it also wobbles or orbits around the spin... it massages the paint off instead of something that just spins... anything that just spins is too aggressive and just "grinds". You can lock a D.A. into "grind" mode if you need it to sand more aggressively.
Ok, on to a little dent repair.
Here first pictured is a pretty nice little unit I picked up. You can also get one from Harbor Freight that work just as good (just not as durably built). This tool is commonly called a "stud" gun... same nick name my wife has for me
This tool will spot weld a "nail" or "stud" to a metal panel, then you can use a special made slide hammer to grip the stud, and whack whack your dent is gone.
Here you can see a line of studs I welded to a crease in the quarter panel. You can grip each one individually and pull, or you can use a clamp or other device to yank on all of them at once.
You can see the slide hammer slips over the stud, twist it tight and it grips the stud.
The stud gun tip is spring loaded, so you slid a stud down into the tip, and press it against the panel, once the tip and the outside touch the metal you can pull the trigger and it will spot weld it to the panel. This one I have takes only a split second to do... my harbor freight one you have to hold it for a few seconds. Don't go too long or you can tear the metal when hammering on it. I would rather have it pop off than tear the metal.
This stud gun kit also comes with a shrinking tip... (another day)
Here first pictured is a pretty nice little unit I picked up. You can also get one from Harbor Freight that work just as good (just not as durably built). This tool is commonly called a "stud" gun... same nick name my wife has for me
This tool will spot weld a "nail" or "stud" to a metal panel, then you can use a special made slide hammer to grip the stud, and whack whack your dent is gone.
Here you can see a line of studs I welded to a crease in the quarter panel. You can grip each one individually and pull, or you can use a clamp or other device to yank on all of them at once.
You can see the slide hammer slips over the stud, twist it tight and it grips the stud.
The stud gun tip is spring loaded, so you slid a stud down into the tip, and press it against the panel, once the tip and the outside touch the metal you can pull the trigger and it will spot weld it to the panel. This one I have takes only a split second to do... my harbor freight one you have to hold it for a few seconds. Don't go too long or you can tear the metal when hammering on it. I would rather have it pop off than tear the metal.
This stud gun kit also comes with a shrinking tip... (another day)
Here you can see some more studs welded to the car in some area's I found that needed attention. There is also a few other metal working tricks that go with pulling dents. And to understand them I will go into what I know about metal and the way it responds to stresses.
You can also see in this photo how much body filler was used in the car. This is the very edge of the driver quarter panel. After a bit of looking around I figured out a possible reason for the excessive filler. After grinding most of the filler out I noticed that the quarter really was not damaged that bad on the exterior. But looking further into why I found that the rear panel, or tail light panel is actually pushed in towards the center of the car. They used this excessive filler to make the edge of the quarter fit the end cap :violent1:
More pictures of that issue later this week.
You can also see in this photo how much body filler was used in the car. This is the very edge of the driver quarter panel. After a bit of looking around I figured out a possible reason for the excessive filler. After grinding most of the filler out I noticed that the quarter really was not damaged that bad on the exterior. But looking further into why I found that the rear panel, or tail light panel is actually pushed in towards the center of the car. They used this excessive filler to make the edge of the quarter fit the end cap :violent1:
More pictures of that issue later this week.
DOMINANTmopar
Well-Known Member
Great info. Thanks.
Keep it comin.
You mentioned doing a guide coat after sanding to find any highs and lows. What do you like to use? Will rattle can primer do the trick? It is easy to remove.
Keep it comin.
You mentioned doing a guide coat after sanding to find any highs and lows. What do you like to use? Will rattle can primer do the trick? It is easy to remove.
Dents! We all hate em right? So lets get em fixed as best we can.
What happens when something hits your car? Or any metal for that reason? Just a dent a scratch and frustration? Well there is more to it than that.
Lets describe formed metal. I like to say "metal has memory" it likes to be where it is... and when something comes in contact with it, the metal responds by trying to go back to where it was. Also as the metal is stretched it is basically expanding in the same amount of space and tends to rise around the edges.
This is an important concept to understand when fixing a dent. When the object strikes the panel the metal starts to stretch, and move inward causing the dent. After the pressure of the object hitting the panel is removed, the metal reacts by trying to move back to where it was previously. This will cause a slight ridge around the dent "high spot". Here is my crappy drawing of what I am trying to describe.
What happens when something hits your car? Or any metal for that reason? Just a dent a scratch and frustration? Well there is more to it than that.
Lets describe formed metal. I like to say "metal has memory" it likes to be where it is... and when something comes in contact with it, the metal responds by trying to go back to where it was. Also as the metal is stretched it is basically expanding in the same amount of space and tends to rise around the edges.
This is an important concept to understand when fixing a dent. When the object strikes the panel the metal starts to stretch, and move inward causing the dent. After the pressure of the object hitting the panel is removed, the metal reacts by trying to move back to where it was previously. This will cause a slight ridge around the dent "high spot". Here is my crappy drawing of what I am trying to describe.
They make a guide coat in a rattle can that I use. Anything that sands easy and dries quick works. What you are really looking for is something of opposing color. I used to use the old red oxide lacquer primer as a dusting of guide coat too because it dried so fast. The rattle can stuff they have now is great. They also make a dry guide coat... this is a power that comes with a soft sponge as an applicator that you just rub across the panel and it leaves a dusting into the sand scratches and low spots. It's rather expensive and I prefer the spray guide coat.
To relieve the pressure around the dent I like to tap down a bit when pulling with the slide hammer. It really doesn't take much and you could apply as much filler as you want, you would still have a high spot around the dent. Here is a picture of me tapping down the perimeter of the dent.
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
A handy rule on dents is "First in, Last out".
So when removing a dent you work from the outside towards the point of impact.
So when removing a dent you work from the outside towards the point of impact.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
X2!
Man I hate stud guns lol. But you have to own one! This is my favorite tool in the shop for dents,
http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/tls/2833049767.html
Thats one heck of a deal! I paid $500+ for mine.
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