Body Work Tutorial
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DOMINANTmopar
Well-Known Member
OK so what is the best way to go when doing the interior body work? As you will see from the pictures below the floor pan is in really good shape except for some surface rust ( It looks a lot better in the pictures than it did a few hours ago
.)
Should I wire brush, sand the rusty areas to bare metal, then use self etching primer and paint? That was my plan at least. I also removed any seam sealer that was brittle and crumbled when touched. Eventually I will do Dynamat, but I want to seal it all up and remove as much rust as possible before I do that. Is there any techniques, prep, tools or paint materials that you recommend? Sorry to change gears a little on you here, but it is still body work. I just want to make sure I am doing what is best for my ride without having to media blast the whole interior and spend lots of loot.
.) Should I wire brush, sand the rusty areas to bare metal, then use self etching primer and paint? That was my plan at least. I also removed any seam sealer that was brittle and crumbled when touched. Eventually I will do Dynamat, but I want to seal it all up and remove as much rust as possible before I do that. Is there any techniques, prep, tools or paint materials that you recommend? Sorry to change gears a little on you here, but it is still body work. I just want to make sure I am doing what is best for my ride without having to media blast the whole interior and spend lots of loot.
OK so what is the best way to go when doing the interior body work? As you will see from the pictures below the floor pan is in really good shape except for some surface rust ( It looks a lot better in the pictures than it did a few hours ago
Should I wire brush, sand the rusty areas to bare metal, then use self etching primer and paint? That was my plan at least. I also removed any seam sealer that was brittle and crumbled when touched. Eventually I will do Dynamat, but I want to seal it all up and remove as much rust as possible before I do that. Is there any techniques, prep, tools or paint materials that you recommend? Sorry to change gears a little on you here, but it is still body work. I just want to make sure I am doing what is best for my ride without having to media blast the whole interior and spend lots of loot.
Best way to remove rust is sand blasting... silica sand or other media... but for interior it would cause an awful mess. You have several other options, rust converters (Conquest brand is the best I have ever used but very hard to get) I have also used Eastwood brand and it worked well... several others make it. You could use a product like Eastwood's rust encapsulator. I have used it and it worked much better than POR15.
If it were my car I would probably get as much of the loose scale off, convert, encapsulate, and topcoat with something of your choice.
Conquest
LINER ROLPANIT INC., North America 430 Montrose Ave., Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6G 3H1 (416) 534-1511. Conquest Converter; will sell liter quantities direct.
Eastwood Converter
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
Encapsulator
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html
They also make acid "washes" as I like to call them. But can be fairly toxic.
You also could top coat the area with a GOOD epoxy primer like DPLF from PPG.
Lots of options.
I would also add that your floors are very clean, I would try the converter, let it sit for a good amount of time.. 48 hours or so and top it with an epoxy primer... then a little paint to seal it up. Yours are in very good condition.
DOMINANTmopar
Well-Known Member
thank you very much for the info.
Are any of the rattle can convertors or "stop rust" paints from like home depot any good? I always wondered, and you probably have experience with these products. I only ask because I have one on the corner. Also what should I use to prep and clean the area prior to any paints or primers?
Yes this car is very clean, but still needs some body work. This post hits home with where I am at with my build.....so again, thanks.
I'm sure I will have more questions as I go.
Are any of the rattle can convertors or "stop rust" paints from like home depot any good? I always wondered, and you probably have experience with these products. I only ask because I have one on the corner. Also what should I use to prep and clean the area prior to any paints or primers?
Yes this car is very clean, but still needs some body work. This post hits home with where I am at with my build.....so again, thanks.
I'm sure I will have more questions as I go.
I have never used any rust converters other than the Conquest or Eastwood brand... the Eastwood one does come in a aerosol can so that's good.. I just used it for the first time the other day and liked it. Conquest is the best though but for what you have the aerosol will do just fine. I would clean the area before using the converter with a good wax and grease remover.. you can get some decent stuff at a parts store.
green1
Well-Known Member
Ace hardware, ospho. Body shops use it. $18 . Never pay for Eastwood crap, it is just re-named. and triple the price. some of the crap Eastwood sells is in Harbor Freight.
Clean loose off, ospho (lightly, not a soak) wipe it after 15 minutes. No water rinsing. In the AM, rust should be black. If brown still there, not clean; try again.
Clean loose off, ospho (lightly, not a soak) wipe it after 15 minutes. No water rinsing. In the AM, rust should be black. If brown still there, not clean; try again.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
Knock the loose surface rust down, vacuum debris, wipe with alcohol or degreaser and use Por15 or Rustbullet, roll it on. Then replace all the seam sealer! I use Por15 with excellent results.
As far as the Eastwood stuff... the only reason I used it was because it's what my boss bought for the shop.... he tends to over spend on that stuff. If there is a cheaper method with good results by all means go for it.
lou3500
Fla. Cuda Guy
Thanks again for the info being a novice [cheapskate,thrifty,budget minded] i need all the help i can get. We used the Eastwood rust converter on floors, trunk pans,inside doors,quarters ect. we are going to paint those areas with eastwood rust encapsulator.
AdamR
Big Member
When pulling dents with the stud gun try not to get to crazy with the slide hammer, You will just end up stretching the metal the other way. Instead pull with steady pressure using one hand and gently tap the metal around the dent using your hammer with the other hand.
Good write up ! Keep it coming
Good write up ! Keep it coming
green1
Well-Known Member
and before you buy Eastwood Chassis Black; local paint shop has it for 60% less.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
I got this from the paint store years back and have never used another rust product. I use this before the por15. I even used it on/in the bare body. Used a squirt bottle and applied it everywhere I could. Inside the cowl, inside the 1/4's, inside the rockers and inside the frame rails.
I think I paid around $30 a gallon and used 2 gallons. Most of it leaked onto my concrete and bleached it white lol. But it reached into all the pinchwelds cause it leaked out everywhere.
http://www.gemrustkiller.com/
AdamR
Big Member
Just make sure you read and follow the direction on those metal treatments. When I was working at the body shop my boss didnt read the direction and every were he used the rust converter the paint lifted right off the bare metal. All because he didnt rinse it correctly.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Starting my bodywork as soon as it warms up and despite all I've read and watched already, this is already a valuable addition and discussion.
This is a good idea as well, a lot of people forget about corrosion protection AFTER the repair is done. I made a wand that attaches to a binks #7 that I can spray epoxy into all the nooks... I just let it run out... plastic under the car.
Sorry for not posting on this in a bit, been pretty busy, but now I have a camera full of more pictures... I did this part last week sometime..
Basically Here you can see some of the panels I cut to repair the rusted area's. I use an air flanger in some spots and but weld the ends. This reduces the amount of metal work I have to do after welding. The lower part of the panels are done with the same air tool that punches a plug weld hole in the panel. When welding keep moving from one end of the panel to another. Do short stitch welds, and cool with air or water after. I like to make sure I can touch the panel easily with my bare hand before another weld is done. All this is done to control heat. They also make a heat clay that you can position above the weld area to absorb the heat.
After the welding is done, you can grind the welds and recess them if they need to be.
Basically Here you can see some of the panels I cut to repair the rusted area's. I use an air flanger in some spots and but weld the ends. This reduces the amount of metal work I have to do after welding. The lower part of the panels are done with the same air tool that punches a plug weld hole in the panel. When welding keep moving from one end of the panel to another. Do short stitch welds, and cool with air or water after. I like to make sure I can touch the panel easily with my bare hand before another weld is done. All this is done to control heat. They also make a heat clay that you can position above the weld area to absorb the heat.
After the welding is done, you can grind the welds and recess them if they need to be.
Next up I will show a bit of priming and some other paint "how to tips". Feel free to ask questions or add anything.
In these pictures I am going to prime the jamb or underside of this hood. When I got this car in the shop they had already soda blasted a lot of the parts, and left them sit.... for a long time.... rust rust rust. Surface rust over the entire panel and jambs... not fun for me.
So I used a rust converter after sanding and prepping the hood as best I could. Here you can see how it turns the area's black. Not my favorite way of doing it but just they way it has to be done in this case.
In these pictures I am going to prime the jamb or underside of this hood. When I got this car in the shop they had already soda blasted a lot of the parts, and left them sit.... for a long time.... rust rust rust. Surface rust over the entire panel and jambs... not fun for me.
So I used a rust converter after sanding and prepping the hood as best I could. Here you can see how it turns the area's black. Not my favorite way of doing it but just they way it has to be done in this case.
The next step to priming is cleaning the panel. Here you can see a good set of gloves that should be worn when doing any work with chemicals. I prefer to use Nitrile gloves compared to latex. They hold up much better and last longer. Latex will fall apart instantly in lacquer thinner.
Next up is to apply a wax and grease remover. This will remove any contaminants from you hands or other things that could have found their way onto the panel.
Here I am using two sets of rags, one to apply and one to remove or dry. You can apply with a squirt bottle or a pressurized can that works great.
This is the PPG wax and grease remover I am using. I have used this product for a very long time and it works well. Some of the cheaper one's tend to leave a wet or oily film over the panel.
Next up is to apply a wax and grease remover. This will remove any contaminants from you hands or other things that could have found their way onto the panel.
Here I am using two sets of rags, one to apply and one to remove or dry. You can apply with a squirt bottle or a pressurized can that works great.
This is the PPG wax and grease remover I am using. I have used this product for a very long time and it works well. Some of the cheaper one's tend to leave a wet or oily film over the panel.
Now lets go to the paint gun. This is a pretty standard gravity fed paint gun. This gun has a 1.4 tip in it. This is the size of the fluid needle and fluid tip.
Here you can see I have the gun apart to clean each part. I suggest you do this after each use, but not necessarily to the extent I have this gun apart... she just needed to be cleaned real good.
Here are a few tools I use to clean my paint guns also. I use lacquer thinner for cleaning.
Here you can see I have the gun apart to clean each part. I suggest you do this after each use, but not necessarily to the extent I have this gun apart... she just needed to be cleaned real good.
Here are a few tools I use to clean my paint guns also. I use lacquer thinner for cleaning.
Now lets start to assemble the paint gun. Here I am putting the trigger together. When you pull the trigger on a paint gun you can first just get air flow, then further pulling the trigger you will get fluid.
Next I am sliding the fluid needle in, it's always a good idea to put a small drop of oil on the needle where it slides in the gun body. This will help the action on the gun, on and off. Slide the spring over the needle in the back and turn the lock nut. This is also your fluid adjustment. This will affect how far in the needle will travel when you pull the trigger, and also how far the trigger will go back.
Next you can turn in the fluid tip, this can be done first also. When putting the fluid tip in after the needle is in, make sure to pull the trigger all the way back to slide the needle back as to not damage it when tightening the fluid tip.
Next you can just screw the cup and lid on, your air fitting/regulator, and the air cap. Make sure the air cap is perfectly horizontal so your pattern is straight up and down. I always run a bit of clean thinner through the gun next.
Next you can turn in the fluid tip, this can be done first also. When putting the fluid tip in after the needle is in, make sure to pull the trigger all the way back to slide the needle back as to not damage it when tightening the fluid tip.
Next you can just screw the cup and lid on, your air fitting/regulator, and the air cap. Make sure the air cap is perfectly horizontal so your pattern is straight up and down. I always run a bit of clean thinner through the gun next.
Here is the gun all cleaned and ready to spray. Also to note, this gun cost about $100 8-10 years ago, if you take care of them, they will last. And don't go letting someone tell you that you need a $900 gun to spray a car properly. I have used this gun for sealer, base, and clear on very expensive cars for a long time... Looks good after all these years don't she?
Next step is some epoxy primer. I am using the DPLF epoxy. This is a great product to put down first under your filler primer, as a sealer, over bare metal... pretty much anything. Epoxy has great corrosion resistance, and sticks to darn near anything.
First step (if you can) is to shake the product in a paint shaker.
Next pop the lid and get a stir stick in the product and stir. Remember to go up and down and round and round, along with scraping the sides and bottom of the can. Stir as long as you like. Remember a lot of these cans sit in an auto parts store for a very long time. If you get a chance, I suggest sitting them upside down overnight before you use them.
After stirring I start to mix the product. I usually use a clear cup and mix the ratio by ounce. This product is 2:1. I also add about 1/2 of reducer as the epoxy is very thick. This will help lay the product down easily.
After mixing stir the product for a long time, make sure it is really mixed properly. Epoxy generally has a very long pot life. Pot life is how long you can let a catalyzed product sit in the gun before it's not possible to spray. It also has a very long recoat window. This recoat window is how long the product can sit after being sprayed without having to be re sanded. I don't suggest sanding epoxy primer as it sands like bubble gum.. DPLF is specifically labeled non sanding primer. So after that is said what can we deduct from this epoxy? IT DRIES SLOW!
Next I am going to add the product to my gun, always use a clean, new strainer before adding.
You can also let and it is suggested to let most epoxy primers sit for 20-30 minutes before spraying. This will help the different chemicals bind to each other. I will leave it in the mixing cup for 10-20 minutes, then give it another good stir, then add to the gun and spray.
First step (if you can) is to shake the product in a paint shaker.
Next pop the lid and get a stir stick in the product and stir. Remember to go up and down and round and round, along with scraping the sides and bottom of the can. Stir as long as you like. Remember a lot of these cans sit in an auto parts store for a very long time. If you get a chance, I suggest sitting them upside down overnight before you use them.
After stirring I start to mix the product. I usually use a clear cup and mix the ratio by ounce. This product is 2:1. I also add about 1/2 of reducer as the epoxy is very thick. This will help lay the product down easily.
After mixing stir the product for a long time, make sure it is really mixed properly. Epoxy generally has a very long pot life. Pot life is how long you can let a catalyzed product sit in the gun before it's not possible to spray. It also has a very long recoat window. This recoat window is how long the product can sit after being sprayed without having to be re sanded. I don't suggest sanding epoxy primer as it sands like bubble gum.. DPLF is specifically labeled non sanding primer. So after that is said what can we deduct from this epoxy? IT DRIES SLOW!
Next I am going to add the product to my gun, always use a clean, new strainer before adding.
You can also let and it is suggested to let most epoxy primers sit for 20-30 minutes before spraying. This will help the different chemicals bind to each other. I will leave it in the mixing cup for 10-20 minutes, then give it another good stir, then add to the gun and spray.
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