Brakes locking up

[jfive]

I have recently had my car at a shop to get a few things done (intake, gas tank, sending unit....) .and on the way home i had an issue, I had to stop and enter my gate code, when the gate was open i realized i couldn't go... well could but it was tough, that's when i realized the brakes were locked up. Fortunately this is my driveway and i was home and was gonna "get back to it in a few" as i had pressing issues at home i needed to tend. went back about an hour or so later back to the car and had no issue with the brakes being stuck. now a week passes and i ran to town about 20 miles away and a few errands, and no problems the whole time until you guessed it i was in the driveway after entering my code brakes were locked up again. just to let everyone know i do not have a very steep driveway, pretty flat actually. What the heck could be happening? car is 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger, 318/904, PS,PB

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Master cyl. not releasing all the way , Stuck caliper, or a brake hose inner liner is collapsed.

 

[dano]

My guess would be possible contamination (Water) in the brake fluid. This scenario would drag or lock all the brakes.

I had a friend the same thing happened too, would drive for a while and as the fluid heats up, the water (or other liquid not rated for heat) boils and outgasses expanding and pressurizing the system. Let it cool and everything would work again.

 

[jfive]

i appreciate the replies. i failed to mention the Headman headers, think this could be the culprit heating things up?

 

[dano]

i appreciate the replies. i failed to mention the Headman headers, think this could be the culprit heating things up?

Are they really close to any brake lines, or any part of the exhaust for that matter?

 

[jfive]

Are they really close to any brake lines, or any part of the exhaust for that matter?

do not think so or many other folks on here would have possibly posted a warning about header clearances, but i will check when i get home and see what it looks like all the way back.

 

[dano]

do not think so or many other folks on here would have possibly posted a warning about header clearances, but i will check when i get home and see what it looks like all the way back.

There is that. Along with what Oldmanmopar said, a check of the entire system may be in order. How old is the brake system? Is it really humid where you live?

 

[jfive]

There is that. Along with what Oldmanmopar said, a check of the entire system may be in order. How old is the brake system? Is it really humid where you live?

honestly no idea how old, i havent looked myself. when i got the car, been a few years now it had new brake lines, shoes and pads and supposedly new master, got the old one in the trunk. runs and stops great when it isnt locked lol

 

[Scamp Rhonda]

It's possible you have contamination in one of the brake cylinders keeping the brakes from releasing completely until after it has sat for a short period of time. It happened to me

 

[eekvonzipper]

Maybe just Change your Gate Code.

 

[jfive]

Maybe just Change your Gate Code.

LMAO. Yea I thought maybe the car didn’t want to go home. Locks up and says go drive me some more.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Put yur toe under the pedal and lift it up. If it moves and releases the brakes, adjust the pushrod shorter, or move the M/C away from the firewall..
If it still doesn't release the brakes, make the pushrod shorter anyways.

If it still does not release, then you probably have a booster issue.

 

[jfive]

Put yur toe under the pedal and lift it up. If it moves and releases the brakes, adjust the pushrod shorter, or move the M/C away from the firewall..
If it still doesn't release the brakes, make the pushrod shorter anyways.

If it still does not release, then you probably have a booster issue.

i did try to pull it back and no go, i will be doing some tinkering this weekend and post the findings.

 

[Bewy]

First thing to check.....is it the front or back locking up? Next time it happens, jack up front/rear wheel to see....Is it both sides?

 

[jfive]

sorry for the late response. had some honey do list items and then took a few days off for a vacation. well back to the subject, i was able to bleed the brakes and found some air in the lines. but of course it wasn't that easy.
when i went to the first wheel i hopped under the car and tries fitting the size i ***.U.ME.d was the right size, NOPE is was a 7mm. i thought this strange as i knew this car was made at a time in the US used all SAE. this gave me pause.....so ui turned it and sure enough it let loose, and fell on the ground. PO must haven decided it was to hard to change things out when the bleeder screw broke off and just stuck something in its place, even had pipe take on it to seal the leak (that wasn't there). This lead me to removing the wheel and replacing the wheel cylinder. this tossed me another curve, i have to get an 11mm to remove the bolts. Now I'm thinking this isn't even the right cylinder. called local O"R parts and had 2 in stock, i went and got one and while installing i realized it too had 11mm bolts and a 7mm bleeder, WOW i thought....why would they make replacements metric??? i guess it doesn't matter except when you think you know what size to grab before crawling you butt on the ground and then have to get back up to get another tool. Why would the industry want to confuse everyone with interchangeable metric and SAE?? Now they are bled and I'm back on the road again....
That all being said i have a slight pull to the left now...i was thinking to replace the brake lines front to back, anyone recommend a whole kit or is it all just piece work. i have seen that CI has a few 4-piece kits but they seem to be out of stock right now. thanks to all for the input and recommendations.

 

[67Dart273]

Are these rebuilt cylinders? 'Murican cylinders should be SAE. I'd try a different parts source. However, newer brake tube ends and apapters, although must be SAE THREAD, often have poorly made hex fittings and are sloppy fit or half a$$ metric. That has been on for awhile, now.

 

[H22A4]

honestly no idea how old, i havent looked myself. when i got the car, been a few years now it had new brake lines, shoes and pads and supposedly new master, got the old one in the trunk. runs and stops great when it isnt locked lol

Goes to show that the claims a seller makes about what work has recently been done to the car could be a stretch. It had new parts for some of the brake system but not the right parts as you later found out. Don’t always trust what the previous owner says.

 

[jfive]

Are these rebuilt cylinders? 'Murican cylinders should be SAE. I'd try a different parts source. However, newer brake tube ends and apapters, although must be SAE THREAD, often have poorly made hex fittings and are sloppy fit or half a$$ metric. That has been on for awhile, now.

was sold as new, lol
it was a Brake Best from O'Reilly
the brake line fit very well into the cylinder.

 

[jfive]

Goes to show that the claims a seller makes about what work has recently been done to the car could be a stretch. It had new parts for some of the brake system but not the right parts as you later found out. Don’t always trust what the previous owner says.

well i think the right part was used, just wondering why the change from SAE to metric for the fittings? this is a manufacturing thing, i believe it is because most stuff is made in China these days, no matter what the part is for.....

oh and DON'T get me started on what PO's say

 

[jfive]

well after driving home and brakes locking up again i have found a few more things.
jacked it up and found back was not locked but dragging a little, front LOCKED.
so for testing i popped the top on the reservoir and nothing, i assumed it would relieve the pressure.
started removing the line and sure enough squirted fluid and released the break.

found this when investigating the line. seems like at some point it was shortened a little and pulled the "loops" tight and this

 

[H22A4]

That’s a terrible flare job!

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Single flare! Yikes. Is that stainless?

 

[jfive]

Not stainless

 

[jfive]

horrible flare job indeed had to fish a piece out of master too.

Any idea where to get preformed lines? I don’t want the whole kit. But it looks like they only come in a kit with others or straight bend your own.

Without crawling under my car does anyone know how long if I bend my own?
Are they both supposed to be the sale? Or like this

 

[MDchanic]

You shouldn't have any adapters on there, and is that TEFLON TAPE I see???

Just buy a roll of Nickel Copper tubing and a bunch of the correct-size nuts and a flare kit and remake it yourself.

I never trust anyone to work on my brakes, and you shouldn't either - look what happens.

- Eric