brakes no bueno

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73dartswngr

73dartswngr

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lewiston idaho
I have a 73 swinger with the stock attributes. it has power brakes that seem to not wont to work. I have replaced the front calipers (yes they are put on the correct side), did this because the bleeders were both shot and just thought that new is better anyway. the problem I have is that the peddle goes to the floor, either running or not, and with little effort. This was happening before the caliper change and has continued after. I do have a huffing noise that you can hear from the booster when the engine is off, just wondering if that is normal or not. any ideas would be great.:violent1:
 
If the brakes are bled correctly and are adjusted {the rears that is} I think you would have to have some kind of pedal even if the booster is bad. you either have alot of air in the system or you have a bad master cylinder. Or you could have a leak somewhere that you have not found yet.
 
Yup. Regardless of booster problems, you should have a pedal. You have some problem relating to bleeding or a leak. You MAY need to "bench bleed" the master. Google it. The parts stores have an inexpensive kit with plastic fittings and hose.

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I ALWAYS "pre bleed" stuff if I can. When I installed my new calipers (conversion) I filled the calipers and front hoses with a syringe. Put a wood protective block in front of the piston. "Blow" the piston out with air. Fill the caliper with fluid, then gently retract it with a C clamp. With the hose installed and held "up" you can force air clear out and in my case "on one side" it produced no further air

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Thanks for the information guys, I replaced the master and used the bench bleed setup that 67Dart273 recommended and it worked great, I can now stand on the brakes and damn near send myself through the window. Thanks again for all the info. I have one more question, is it useall for the booster to have any brake fluid in it, I am not really sure so I thought I should ask you guys.
 
On our cars, brake fluid leaking out the rear of the MC should run out a slot between the MC and booster. It then removes the paint from the firewall, causing rust (unless you use DOT 5). There is nothing to suck the fluid into the booster, unless the inner rubber bellows is bad (could be your hissing sound). Many newer cars seal vacuum between the MC & booster and don't have an inner bellows, resulting in a thinner booster (like my 80's M-B and I think my minivans). Those do suck leaking brake fluid into the booster.
 
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