Break in oil ?

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I am having a new cam, lifters, pushrods,springs etc done to my 65 Barracuda 273. Will I need to put in bread in oil. There will be no motor work other than the cam and timing chain and lifters/pushrods.
Any information would be appreciated
 
Brad Penn, Comp Cams or a oil additive
 
My thoughts on this would be to use "Diesel Motor Oil" such as Valvoline Premium Blue 15W-40 (I run that in my 65 273 Barracuda) It has ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) and is just damn good oil for older flat tappet cam engines...

Works great for me, but then again, I live in Arizona ~heat~
 
Use Joe Gibbs Driven break-in oil BR30 (5W30) or BR (15W50).

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/br30-break-in-oilhtml/

This oil is made for exactly that purpose, breaking in a cam and lifters.

I attended a seminar by Lake Speed JR who is Joe Gibbs Racing Certified Lubrication Specialist, and these guys know what they are doing. Their flat tappet NASCAR race engines rev to over 10000 RPM.

The BR oil should be used for no longer than 400 Miles according to Lake Speed JR.

It's pretty pricey stuff but worth every penny considering all the work you have put into the engine.
 
use whatever you want but if you don't want to spend a small fortune rotella t is the best value and proven and used by hundreds of members . it has enough zinc in it . no additives needed to much zinc is also not good
 
scatpackbee said:
Use Joe Gibbs Driven break-in oil BR30 (5W30) or BR (15W50).

It's pretty pricey stuff but worth every penny considering all the work you have put into the engine.
Click to expand...

YEs /\/\/\

My machinest uses Joe Gibbs. I'm not really a brand name guy but i'd advise buying a dedicated break in oil. DOn't pretend to be a chemist and buy a gimmick oil additive.
 
There's more to it than just throwing in the break-in lube. You must follow a break-in procedure, typically bringing the car immediately up to about 2500 RPM & keeping it there for about 20 minutes. Cam companies will have their specific recommendations. Make sure the car is ready to fire up immediately, i.e. recommend carb is primed. Long cranking without starting has been known to eventually wipe a cam. Change the oil afterward, I would continue using a good ZDDP additive after. I use the Lucas stuff. None of this applies if you have a roller cam which I assume you don't.
 
We use Royal Purple break in oil for the first 500 miles.
 
You don't mention what camshaft is going in it but if it's a stock or mild cam any fleet deisel rated oil should be fine assuming the lifters rotate freely and it starts immediately. If it's a larger than stock, say more than 210° @ .050, then you may want the additive too as modern fleet oils are still not very high in zink. Higher than gas engine oils, but not really high. If you have a fast rate of lift and something more than 220° @ .050 then you should look into break in oils. Also - if you have true dual valve springs the inner spring needs to be removed for break in. Personally I like the Valvoline VR1 Not For Street Use - mainly for convenience but it's not much pricier than standard oils and it works well.
 
any name brand 10w-30 motor oil with camshaft covered with moly lube ......and a zinc additive...

most important thing is the engine fires...and you dont just sit there and spin the engine over and over and over...

have the iginition set and working. have timing light ready to go to set timing.....have the carb full of gas ...with no leaks....and not using a POS that drips gas down your brand new engine...
cooling system ready to go and working.....have a hose with sprayer ready to go to cool if necessary...

.
 
clifcuda65 said:
My thoughts on this would be to use "Diesel Motor Oil" such as Valvoline Premium Blue 15W-40 (I run that in my 65 273 Barracuda) It has ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) and is just damn good oil for older flat tappet cam engines...

Works great for me, but then again, I live in Arizona ~heat~
Click to expand...

Don't worry, this car is a summer time use only, when its nice and warm.
 
moper said:
You don't mention what camshaft is going in it but if it's a stock or mild cam any fleet deisel rated oil should be fine assuming the lifters rotate freely and it starts immediately. If it's a larger than stock, say more than 210° @ .050, then you may want the additive too as modern fleet oils are still not very high in zink. Higher than gas engine oils, but not really high. If you have a fast rate of lift and something more than 220° @ .050 then you should look into break in oils. Also - if you have true dual valve springs the inner spring needs to be removed for break in. Personally I like the Valvoline VR1 Not For Street Use - mainly for convenience but it's not much pricier than standard oils and it works well.
Click to expand...

It's an Isky E-4 and it's not to much bigger than stock for the HiPo Barracuda
 
Wally world oil and a $8.50 bottle of GM E.O.S. break in, run for 100 miles and change. Dont use a hose to cool. Motor needs to heat quickly to seat rings. 2500 rpm 20 minutes, then run rpms up and down slowly. No compression braking. Drive under 4500rpm for first 100 miles. Should be good to go, many motors and cams, no failures yet.
 
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