broken bleeder valve!!

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valianteffrt

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So i bled the rear brakes on my '72 valiant successfully..i started bleeding the front passenger side when i did what i was trying very cautiously not to do and broke off the bleeder valve like a bonehead..what next?!! wheel cylinder, caliper, both? trying to stay positive on this one but i have a feeling it's not going to be an easy fix.
 
If all else fails, replace the caliper or wheel cylinder. Whichever it is. I've had very limited success getting them out.
 
I was afraid someone would say that..the bleeder valve is on the wheel cylinder so i don't think i have a choice in replacing it i just didn't know if there was any other options ..looks like i'm going to have a rough time getting behind there and getting everything loosened..thanks Rusty!
 
RustyRatRod said:
If all else fails, replace the caliper or wheel cylinder. Whichever it is. I've had very limited success getting them out.
Click to expand...

Yup, I've tried every tool I have. Easy out and screw extractors, no luck either.
 
Just loosen the brake line with a good flare nut wrench before taking the wheel cylinder bolts out.
C
 
You CAN bleed these if you get creative. You have to THINK and use your HEAD and take time to work things out

Get a big C clamp and some scrap wood, some 1x, maybe 2X and "in between."

Measure The width of the pads OD and estimate how much "you can go" if the pads are worn way down. This will give you a "range" of how far the piston can move

Remove the caliper from the spindle, and "rig" your "wood products" so they make up that width you figured, and tie / tape / clamp it in place, to form a stop for the piston

Gently work the brake pedal to push the piston out against your home-made stop.

Now, carefully work the thing around so the hose is the "high spot." "Rig" your C clamp so you can retract the piston. Crack the hose fitting with rags, towels, etc, and screw the clamp so as to retract the piston. With the hose fitting "up" this will force air and fluid out

If ya did this correct, it will be bled on that wheel.

Also, I haven't dealt with them in years, but there used to be a repair device for bleeders. Frankly, rebuilt calipers ARE NOT that expensive. Just make sure you match the diameters of the pistons between 'em

Scroll down to post 6. This is how I "pre" bled mine when I converted

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=248634&highlight=gauwd
 
valianteffrt said:
I was afraid someone would say that..the bleeder valve is on the wheel cylinder so i don't think i have a choice in replacing it i just didn't know if there was any other options ..looks like i'm going to have a rough time getting behind there and getting everything loosened..thanks Rusty!
Click to expand...

You are afraid of a 10 dollar wheel cylinder?
 
X2 on just replacing the wheel cylinder and getting a good tubing wrench to get the lines loose. Lots of patience and soaking for a few days with P-B Blaster won't hurt either. The tubing wrench is a must unless you want to round off the flare nut in the blink of an eye.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys..my5thmoparhttp://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/member.php?u=21502 i just tried to extract the broken piece of the valve and the bit broke off inside of it so it looks like a new wheel cylinder for me....and no rusty im not afraid of the $10 wheel cylinder haha just didn't want to have to replace it if i didn't have to...just checked out your link 67dart...i have to say that is pretty darn creative and something i will more than likely refer back to when i convert my brakes
 
before removing your brake line take a wire brush & scrub the connection briskly, add your favorite penetrate scrub again--- a lot of time the line is corroded to the fitting-- take your time & hopefully all your replacing is the cylinder ,Lawrence
 
Thanks somehow I thought these were calipers you were fighting. Wheel cylinder? No delay, off to the parts store!!
 
and....

did you get install it,. and test drive it yet?

a fellow your age should be finished by now

..and on the road......
 
You know it's too late to help out valianteffrt with his broken bleeder, but when I put on new wheel cylinders or calipers, after the brakes are bled, I will slather on a good coating of gun grease to the outside of the bleeder. It keeps the water from rusting the bleeder and often keeps dirt out of the bleeder hole. I have also used a dab of grease on the outside of the metal brake line where the fitting screws on to the caliper/cylinder. If I ever have to replace a wheel cylinder I usually don't have to worry about the fitting being rusted to the line. Just a suggestion.
 
i know i should be on the road mr bill and rusty believe me, STILL waiting on my part to come in..and thanks mopardude62 i will take that advice.
 
The last few cylinders that I bought came with rubber or plastic caps for the bleeder valve. The gun grease is a good idea as an anti-corrosion material.
 
Can anti-seize be applied to the bleeder before screwing it into the caliper? Just wondering if that can be done or if that is a big NO-NO.
 
I know this should be simple but im having issues with just taking apart my drum brakes to get my new wheel cylinder on starting with the pin...any "correct" way to get this thing out..i cant seem to find any videos that start from here
 
Don't use anti-seize on the bleeder threads; it typically contains petroleum products which are not good for the hydraulics. Use teflon tape; works like a champ.
 
There's no need to take anything apart at all other than remove the old wheel cylinder and install the new one. It "might" be helpful to remove ONE spring, but not necessary.
 
I have bled old brakes using the brake line, if necessary.
As for $11.99 brake cylinders, if it says china run.
Used them on my 8.75 when I put it in 5 years ago, set in the garage for the last 2 years non use.
Rear wheel cylinder started leaking down the backing plate.
Took the drum off yesterday, the rubber deteriorated around the metal, letting the brake fluid come out.
Ordered $35 wagner, which will not be in until Wednesday.........
 
I agree 100% about the total chinkesium wheel cylinders and brake parts and I am a huge proponent of rebuilding the original American made cores. However, most any time I bring that up, I get argued down so I am just going with the flow. If people want to put inferior stuff on their BRAKES, let them do it. I am tired of arguing otherwise.
 
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