budget build 440

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hw612 said:
casting imperfections and just smoothing everything being careful of the lifters, im not completely sure why but i always listen to my shop teacher hes built more motors and cars than i have teeth.
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Before you spend your time and effort on that...have you had the block checked to make sure it's good..?

Have you at least had it Hot Tanked and Magnafluxed..?

If not, IMHO, that would be step #1.



Oh, yeah - Later on, as you build your Engine...Don't Over-Cam it if you are looking for a daily driver.


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There are two reasons I know of for sanding the block. Sanding the valley walls is used to remove the casting bumps that slow and trap the oil as it pours down the walls. This idea has been promoted to help reduce sludge buildup and better oil drainage. Another option often done in tandem with the sanding, is to paint the valley after sanding. The high temp paint can increase the effectiveness of the oil drainage as well.

Sanding down the exterior of the block is to smooth its appearance. Some prefer the look of the smooth block under its new paint job.

The only thing to be aware of with sanding the block (inside or out) is that the bumps in the casting increase surface area which helps cool the engine down. The smoother the block, the less surface area the higher the running temperature.
 
I don't think anyone in there right mind would paint the valley walls. What happens when the paint starts to fail where does that paint go? Right into your fresh motor.
 
Their is a speciality coating that I think is made by Polydine that people coat their lifter valley area with..it's sole purpose is to return the oil faster..
 
eaglesguy1981j said:
I don't think anyone in there right mind would paint the valley walls. What happens when the paint starts to fail where does that paint go? Right into your fresh motor.
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There is a continuing debate about that very thing. The one thing everyone agrees on is that you don't want to use regular paint. Some people use Rustoleum, but the majority of people that are painting the lifter galley use a product from Glyptal. It was originally designed for electrical motor coating, but its oil and temperature resistance and finish surface made it highly adaptable to the engine application.

Many high-end racing engines get this treatment. If done properly with the right product, it appears to be a beneficial feature to consider. The key will be to thoroughly clean the area to be painted. Options include using brake cleaner and a brush to clean the area with a brake cleaner flush then heat applied to evaporate any product before painting. Another one is to use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) and air dry before painting.

Eastwood offers the Glyptal paint on their site, although local electrical stores may have the same products near your home.

It still remains controversial even after being done for nearly 40 years. If you trust high end builders, maybe you will try it. If you feel uncomfortable after researching the process and pros/cons, maybe you won't. It isn't an unpardonable sin, but there are some basic precautions to take if you go for it.
 
Unless you are building an all out race motor then I think that you are wasting your time sanding the lifter valley. Like said before I would have the block tanked and checked. Do a basic rebuild on it and you could always upgrade from that point.
 
its been checked and everything, its not like i dont have time to do it.
i need to save up for the machine shop...
 
hw612:

Something to consider is to use a 90* air grinder (the small ones) with a sanding disc on it. You can save many hours of time and elbow grease. I have attached a pic below to show you what they look like.

right angle air grinder.jpg
 
CRAP! i posted in the wrong thread! okay nobody use this one anymore please just go to the auto shop adventures one thanks.
 
Cool stuff that you are learning to do this so young, but read some books.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Big-Block-Mopar-Performance-Modifications/dp/1557883025/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_c"]Amazon.com: Big Block Mopar Performance - High Performance and Racing…@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/517GR0B1M8L.@@AMEPARAM@@517GR0B1M8L[/ame]

I just got done reading that, very very very informative and has alot of useful information.
 
I agree Guzzimike, my 6 to BB swap cost me 10k or more, 5k on the engine, with mostly second hand parts. I did all mechanical work my self, the only work I didnt do was block and head machining and shortening of the diff housing-axles. mine stil has points ignition and iron exaust manifolds too.
 
You can spend unlimited amount of money on what you want. The question is what you want to spend. I've got roughly 35k into my car thus far and its not even painted yet. By the time it's finished I'm guessing 50k, not exactly a 16 year olds budget but to give you an example of where it can go. Budget and spend where it counts. Have fun.
 
i know im reading, reasearching, and working my tail off earning money any way i can.
not sanding valley any more. but may have access to a 70 duster roller and could start body work cuz its mostly free...
 
hw612 said:
gonna build a 440 this summer then drop it into a dart for my first car. doing this on 14 year olds budget, will be a challenge that im up for, so im wondering how i could do this without having it cost 80 bucks to get to school every day. and keep it with decent performance. so what can i do during the initial build up of the motor, then later with the tranny and drive train. thanks.
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Go for it!!! I built my my second mopar when I was 15, Started with a $250.00 B-5 Blue 70 GTX with a blown 440 and air grabber hood, found a totaled out 68 GTX that had a good 440 in it for another $250.00, had it ready to roll for under $600.00.... "Your results may very", that 70 GTX right now is probably worth about $30,000.00..
 
My advise is to Build your car with your head, not your billfold, since you're on a budget.. When you start calling summit and jegs and part warehouses that budget isn't going to go far.. Set you up an ebay account, I score prime dirt cheap performance parts on there all the time, I just scored a new set of rings for my 383 mopar and a C3BX edelbrock vintage chevy intake for my rat rod for $75.00 shipped from the same seller.. I stopped by advance yesterday and scored a can of "clearance" interior paint for my 66 Valiant for $1.65... You have to make every dollar count when you budget build and be able to do 90% of the work yourself or your mopar dream is just that, a dream...
 
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