buffing wheel problims

[Snake]

Hope someone can figure this out.I am using a bench grinder to do some polishing or i thought so.I bought a buffing wheel 6 inch installed it turned it on and lots of threads flying all over so i shut it off this cant be right.If i kept going that wheel would have nothing left.Am I doing this wrong what gives.:angry7:

 

[stroked 340]

Snake,get yourself a Mothers mini powerball they work great,for polishing wheels..

 

[340butterduster]

What rpm is your bench grinder, lol, the wheels will usually spit out a few threads at start-up. Make sure you have it running reasonably true before turning it on , they are not known for being balanced. Will you be using clay bricks as a buffing compound? If so, rub the wheel in it, very slightly manually, this will help hold the lose material from flying off.

What type of wheel do you have the green or white ?

http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/...Polishing/?action=view&current=P4100016-1.jpg

My wife used to sell these supplies at bike shows... We are still in contact with the supplier. Let me know...I'll see what I can do to help you, heck we could even shoot a video (dressing the wheel) to show you if you'd like.


Good luck!
Giles

 

[LS-300]

Snake,get yourself a Mothers mini powerball they work great,for polishing wheels..

I got one of those and I'm not impressed. I actually get better results by hand. Maybe it was because I used there polish and it should use something else but I didn't like it.
How fast is the bench grinder spinning? Some of those wheels have RPM limits.

 

[Snake]

thankes 340butterduster,its a white buffer,rpms are 3580.i thought of using componds.I am polishing window trim,wheel well moldings.i put a little of fritz polish on the wheel not much tho firered it up well you know the rest.Sounds like i shouldload up the wheel first to keep it wet?

 

[Snake]

ps were do i get clay bricks

 

[340butterduster]

Don't get it too wet, it'll be messy. The wheel should have cross threading, like the green one from the link I've posted. The lose wheels (white) are typically used for the final buff (run dry'ish) to clean off any residual compound... If that is the only wheel you have, I suggest trying to make yourself larger dia. washers to give it more support on the sides and keep it together. PM sent.

Giles

 

[Snake]

Thanks again Giles,Thease parts are in greatshape maybe iwill hand polish.i see your a fellow Canadian me to Belleville ontario.

 

[340butterduster]

I go to Kingston regularly. Also my sister in-law lives in Cornwall.
You're not out of reach, lol.

PS: You have a long winter ahead of you, tons of polishing time.

Good luck

 

[Snake]

you know it lol.

 

[340butterduster]

BTW high rpm's are not really needed for buffing, a standard handrill is sufficient, apply very lite pressure and don't pause keep in motion.

 

[clhyer]

340ButterDuster - I would love to get a video of the correct technique...
Let me know how to get it!
C

 

[340butterduster]

I don't know that there is a video available. What I was offering "Snake", was for the wife to take a video of myself dressing the wheel.
But since you showed interest on viewing the technique, I will get the wife to ask her supplier if he has a video. I'd be supprised if he doesn't, as he's done so many shows, he must have something to view for when he wants to take a brake. Anything specific/application you are looking for ?

Later,
Giles

 

[2 Darts]

I use a white cloth buffing wheel for larger parts. Threads are flying off of it all the time. I use jewelers rouge for final polishing that comes in a tube about 1 inch in diameter. I've gotten the rouge and coarser compounds from Lowe's and some old style hardware stores. The Eastwood Company makes some really good stuff, but it's more expensive.

I spin the wheel and then touch the polish stick (whether it's jeweler's rouge or something more coarse) to the wheel. Like 340ButterDuster said, don't bear down and don't spin fast. Otherwise, you'll scratch or burn the surface and fling polish all over the place.

This can be a time consuming process. The panel between the tail lights is made of anodized aluminum. This piece was badly corroded when I got the car. I stripped the anodizing off of it and invested 400 man hours into getting in the shape you see in the photo. After I finished polishing the piece, I had it anodized before re-installing on the car.

 

[Snake]

looks great thanks for the tipsssss guys

 

[clhyer]

340BD, any techniques you could/would share would be good. What is the typical thing an amatuer would do wrong? A vid of the proper way would be excellent!
Thanks,
C

 

[340butterduster]

The most common mistakes are using too much compound, high rpm and dwelling on a specific area.

It's like buffing your car and using a power buffer, use as little compound as possible, apply very light pressure and keep in motion. Only do a small area at a time, and repeating the process is better then over-doing it.

I'm still waiting on an answer about the video.

All the best.

 

[GoFish]

I'm also working on polishing all my stainless trim, so a video to see technique would be very helpful. I bought the Eastwood kit to use with a hand drill, wich comes with a variety of wheels and bobs, along with three different compound bars. I like using the variable speed hand drill because I can control the speed, but using a buffer is a bit easier to hold the trim piece because you can use both hands.

A buffer/grinder with a variable speed control like a dremel tool would be a great invention...

 

[mullinax95]

Man I wouldn't be able to make without my bench grinder, buffing compound, and wheels. Nice info here.