Building a 383, want to run spray

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wheelman21

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Hey all. I'm new around here. I've been hanging around the moparmuscle forum, but I figured I'd diversify haha. Ok, so I have a 383 that I am planning on dropping into a 73 dart sport. The engine has been sitting, and needs a full rebuild. I'm trying to figure out what to do on the rebuild. I hope to build a 400-425hp n/a motor and then hit it with a 200 shot when I need it to really haul. I plan on beefing up the rods, and going with forged pistons, but I'm new to mopar and could use a little guidance. I know the cylinders will need to be cleaned up so I am considering having them bored .030 while I'm at it. I have 356 heads that I would like to reuse if possible. I know they will need to be cleaned up and possibly ported and need new valves and springs. To best achieve my goal, what should I do? Bore, don't bore? Just pistons, rods, intake, carb, cam and headers and a nitrous set up? I've built engines before but ever a mopar big block.
 
Check out 440source and buy one of their stroker kits for that 383/30over they advertise them about $1900.00.
 
71and done said:
Check out 440source and buy one of their stroker kits for that 383/30over they advertise them about $1900.00.
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I Don't really want to build a stroker, a lot more machining than I'd like to do from what I understand. I'd also like to use my stock crank if possible. My main concern is building it where it can take the nitrous.
 
The stock forged bottom end should hold up just fine. Just use arp rod and main bolts. I have ran 300 shot with KB hyper pistons with no problems.
 
I'd definitely go forged pistons if you wanna use nitrous. Not sure of any good off the shelf ones with the correct compression hight. May have to call Ross or JE, and cc the heads to get what you need. It will need to be bored, balanced, the crank prob ground and/or polished, arp rod bolts, resize the rods, and you'll have a strong bottem end.

Personally I'd go with a 440Source stroker kit also. All really good parts, balanced, and ready to drop in. Those kits need no more machining. Bore it and you're good.
And think of the extra torque!
 
Babyblue66 said:
I'd definitely go forged pistons if you wanna use nitrous. Not sure of any good off the shelf ones with the correct compression hight. May have to call Ross or JE, and cc the heads to get what you need. It will need to be bored, balanced, the crank prob ground and/or polished, arp rod bolts, resize the rods, and you'll have a strong bottem end.

Personally I'd go with a 440Source stroker kit also. All really good parts, balanced, and ready to drop in. Those kits need no more machining. Bore it and you're good.
And think of the extra torque!
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Ok so lets say I go with the 440source stroker kit. Say I want to go with the 496 kit bored .030 with flat top pistons. With that combo how much extra machining is required? How much hp would it put out? What kind of torque? You have my attention, so sell me on it!
 
Ok, so after many hours of reading I have an idea of what I'd like to do. Let me know what you think. After reading the resto to rad series a couple of times this makes sense to me. Replacing the stock pistons with forged KB hyper pistons (standard size), the rods with Eagle H-beam rods of stock length. MP M-1 intake. Demon Carb. Cam. and headers. And then to top it off a 150 shot of the juice. Nothing to extreme for my first mopar build. It will also leave me with some funds to tune the chassis. That engine should make 550+hp and with a well tuned chassis, be a very nasty street machine. How's that sound?
 
IMO, if you're planning to spray I'd spend the money on good forged pistons. They will cost twice the money as KB hypers but you can get some real compression. Run the Stealths heads. Even with replacing the retainers, locks, and springs Thye will flow better, be lighter, have a much better chamber, and not much more money then properly doing the 346s.
 
moper said:
IMO, if you're planning to spray I'd spend the money on good forged pistons. They will cost twice the money as KB hypers but you can get some real compression. Run the Stealths heads. Even with replacing the retainers, locks, and springs Thye will flow better, be lighter, have a much better chamber, and not much more money then properly doing the 346s.
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What pistons do you recommend?
 
Diamond's got a semi-custom forged flat top #51910 that uses the 440 length rod. With it proud (taller than the block) of the deck .005" you end up with .035" quench. I'd have the heads milled to reduce the chambers to 75ccs and set the static ratio at 10.1:1 which will be perfect for NO2. The 6.76 rods (440Source) are cheaper too so that should make up some of the cost of the pistons.
 
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