Calvert set up pictures

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I am wanting drag shocks all the way around. I figured ss springs $250? Then Caltracs $350 with /6 springs okay ? Another $350 for calvert springs ! Now with this winters budget - and all the things on the list, looks like ss springs . This year ...
 
I would run the 002 and 003 springs, slant six torsion bars, find some old standard hydraulic front shocks, drill them and drain the fluid out.

Then see what the stock rear shock extended length is and find a pair of the regular non gas charged hydraulic shocks that are 2" longer extended.

Damn all that drag shock stuff. You are throwin good money after bad. That's a race car. Treat it like one.
 
There is a set of SS springs made for lighter cars than the 002/003's. Just saying.
The SS springs are rated for the cars weight. A max weight of *** for the *** springs. If your race weight exceeds *** weight or is boarder line, go to the next weight rating up and worry not.

002/003 for the heavier 3000 cars. As said, but the numbers escape me, there is a set for the 2800 and down weight.
 
My duster has nothing more then cheap Summit drag shocks $25 front/rear and they work xhd leaf springs snubber..car has 60' in the 1.40's.....
 
My duster has nothing more then cheap Summit drag shocks $25 front/rear and they work xhd leaf springs snubber..car has 60' in the 1.40's.....

the word ,back in the day was, if you cant hit your weight exactly w/ the s.s. springs, go w/ the next lighter set. worked better, a little more movement. "Tom Hoover at a mopar school of dragracing"
 
Speedway Motors has some Mopar style mono leaf springs on close out for $49! Might check them out....
 
I am wanting drag shocks all the way around. I figured ss springs $250? Then Caltracs $350 with /6 springs okay ? Another $350 for calvert springs ! Now with this winters budget - and all the things on the list, looks like ss springs . This year ...


Buy the Cal-Tracs this year, run them with your /6 springs, they will work fine with them. Save your money next summer and upgrade your springs next winter if you want. The biggest thing Cal-Tracs did for my car was make it more 60' consistent.

There have been quality issues over the last 10 or so years with the new SS springs. Plus they make the car look like something from the mid late 70's with the rear end jacked way up.
 
Buy the Cal-Tracs this year, run them with your /6 springs, they will work fine with them. Save your money next summer and upgrade your springs next winter if you want. The biggest thing Cal-Tracs did for my car was make it more 60' consistent.

There have been quality issues over the last 10 or so years with the new SS springs. Plus they make the car look like something from the mid late 70's with the rear end jacked way up.
i probably won't be able to manage anything else til the end of January. I'm ok with the 70's look but I'd rather the Caltracs. My tires stick out a bit so I need a higher rear ride hight.
 
Fixed quote'''''

I'm ok with the 70's look but HER tires stick out a bit so I need a higher rear ride hight.

I knew a chick like that once.....:banghead:
 
Dont be lured in by some cheap *** bullcrap. If you cannot afford the CalVert springs, use the slant springs. The CalVert springs are DESIGNED to work with the CalTracs.

How many times do you have to read that?

Don't be an idiot.

How many times do you want to do this?
 
Fixed quote'''''



I knew a chick like that once.....:banghead:
LOL !! I guess I was alluding to the fact that my build is more of a nostalgia drag car. Which a lot of my build can be contributed to its old school ways. That quote was fixed ! LOL
 
Dont be lured in by some cheap *** bullcrap. If you cannot afford the CalVert springs, use the slant springs. The CalVert springs are DESIGNED to work with the CalTracs.

How many times do you have to read that? Bonjour, I'm a supermodel :D

Don't be an idiot. Insert grain of salt!

How many times do you want to do this? Three is my usual :banghead:
the DESIGHED to work together thing is what's making me lean to 002-003 springs.
I've got 2 months to get my act together on this. I'll be spending the next few weekends welding in frame connectors and the 8 point roll bar. Then $$ get the heads back from the machine shop. Oh ya, get the dana shortened. Then I can start trying to find $$ to work on the suspension. It's all on my x-mas list and I have a really cool wife....
 
THAT is what I was trying my hardest to tell you. The SS spring route will be much cheaper and work just as well for your car.
 
website says they will work with stock, SS, or the Calvert mono's..
 
They work with stock springs just fine. I've seen plenty of fast cars at the track with stock springs and calvert bars. There's a reason they recommend their springs. Sure, they probably work a little bit better, maybe. But they also make money on them...
 
IMO, CalTracs with SS springs is slap overkill and totally unnecessary. The SS springs alone can handle the job all the way down to the eight second mark. Plenty of cars around that quick running the SS Springs. While I agree the CalTracs are nice, there are more important places that money can be spent, IMO.
 
so then the only real advantage of the caltracs(with monos) over SS would be ride height?
 
so then the only real advantage of the caltracs(with monos) over SS would be ride height?

I guess it depends on whether you like the car to sit high or low as to whether it is an advantage.

I am just not sure there is much to gain from adding the CalTracs with SS springs.

It would certainly be interesting to see if someone has done it in that order, to see if any gains were made. The SS springs are so stout on that front segment, that they act like lift bars themselves. That was the whole point behind them.

Crackedback is really hot on all this. Maybe he will know someone who has done it or perhaps he's done it himself.
 
If I was using a truck Dana without provisions for a pinion snubber and on a budget
like yourself. My approach to control differential wind up would be some home made
traction bars.
The way I see it you can make them a couple different ways.
Copy the cal tracks.
Build some slapper bars.
I would be inclined to go the slapper bar route myself since I am old and more familiar with this. The cal trac system looks so weak or bendable to me?
The thing that gives the slapper bars a bad rap with the Mopar crowd is the fact they are sold as universals. If the snubber doesn't hit the forward spring eye directly it becomes more of a spring bender than a spring controller.
So if you built these the correct length and gave the snubbers a 1/2" or less before loading
you would have a true working bar rather than the pretend street bars we all remember.
Take a lesson from the SS springs also. Add a second main leaf to your spring packs that
stops directly under the front eye bolt. Add clamps on front segments to make them work as a
solid bar. Make sure your shocks are long enough not to unload the tires when the body lifts.
Shouldn't cost much and will get the job done.
Don't get me wrong I like the SS springs but they are meant to work with a snubber and
are not cheap. Used ones are usually weakened or bent. At least the ones I take off have been.
 
They work with stock springs just fine. I've seen plenty of fast cars at the track with stock springs and calvert bars. There's a reason they recommend their springs. Sure, they probably work a little bit better, maybe. But they also make money on them...
My Duster has Caltracs and stock V8 springs. Once I got them adjusted correctly I am running 1.41-1.42 60' on a footbrake launch.
 
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