Calvert set up pictures

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Ok so here's the last run before the rearend gave Watch "Dustin duster" on YouTube
[ame]https://youtu.be/5wv6IuSB0sU[/ame]. New act clutch, 8 3/4 410 spool , traction bars (slappers) ajustable pinion snubber, /6 springs , and air shocks at 25 lbs. Nice combo eh !? It's all got to change. Whatever I do, I can't believe I'll make it worse than that ...??
 
j par said:
Ok so here's the last run before the rearend gave Watch "Dustin duster" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/5wv6IuSB0sU. New act clutch, 8 3/4 410 spool , traction bars (slappers) ajustable pinion snubber, /6 springs , and air shocks at 25 lbs. Nice combo eh !? It's all got to change. Whatever I do, I can't believe I'll make it worse than that ...??
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Looks like maybe rear shocks are too tight. Car appears to hook then bounces.....
 
The air shocks are what's killin it. You see how it bounces after launch? That's the air shocks. Get rid of them and go with SS springs.
 
RockinRobin said:
Looks like maybe rear shocks are too tight. Car appears to hook then bounces.....
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that's exactly what's going on. I'm also not getting weight transfer. along with everything going wrong in the rear, the front needs to be lowered with drag shocks and re aligned.
 
Piss on drag shocks. Get some regular hydraulic shocks and drill them like I described. That's in the MP suspension manual. It's an old trick that works.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Piss on drag shocks. Get some regular hydraulic shocks and drill them like I described. That's in the MP suspension manual. It's an old trick that works.
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Oh boy , l'm not trying to discredit you or the MP/SM and I'm not saying I won't give it a try, BUT once I drill and let all the oil out (and I assume) plug the hole? What will it act like and for how long? It's not going to be bouncing up and down for 30 seconds after I come to a stop? And lord forbid, with all the crap I'm doing to the car this winter it's not going to actually hook and possibly the front come of the ground and I push in the clutch to grab second and the front comes down hard on dead shocks and slams that deep oil pan?
Again just asking questions..please take a deep breath and exhale :coffee2: I'm just asking y...
 
No. You leave the hole open.

It's ok. You don't have to believe it or try it. It's a very old trick that's been around since dirt. It's meant to be used on cars that are either drag only or see very limited street time. The shocks become suspension travel limiters and nothing more. An empty shock allows the fastest possible weight transfer from the front.

Just tryin to save you money with an old trick that WORKS.

And no, the torsion bar suspension bounces much less than you would ever think with drilled shocks. I drove mine on the street a long time like that. At the strip it left like a big dog.
 
RockinRobin said:
Looks like maybe rear shocks are too tight. Car appears to hook then bounces.....
Click to expand...

the shocks are too loose, too short


What I beleave is happening is that the rear is coming up too fast, the body comes to the end of travel of the shock and that unloads the rear and it starts hopping like a rabbit.

Slow body rise down just a little; remember simple Physics "for every action, there is an opposite reaction" because as the body RISES, it's pushing DOWN on the tire.

Jason PM me.
 
JBurch said:
the shocks are too loose, too short


What I beleave is happening is that the rear is coming up too fast, the body comes to the end of travel of the shock and that unloads the rear and it starts hopping like a rabbit.

Slow body rise down just a little; remember simple Physics "for every action, there is an opposite reaction" because as the body RISES, it's pushing DOWN on the tire.

Jason PM me.
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actually the torsion bars are jacked all the way to the top it's not lifting at all it's already up there, and that's something I want to change for sure..
 
2 things...........I wasn't talking about the front of the car.......I was commenting about the bunny hop of the *** end........if you have the torsion bars cranked all the way up.......WHY???? No wonder your weight transfer is so poor, you got no movement left!!! DUH!! Un-wind them to the point that you are almost on the lower control arm bumper, that will put some movement back into the front end so you can get some weight transfer.
 
Youtube:

JimBurchrun1.........suspension working, 1.4958 60ft
JimBurchrun2.........suspension working, 1.4992 60ft
JIMDS...................suspension not working, 1.580 60ft
 
JBurch has given some good advise. Let the front down, throw away the air shocks. CE 3 way front shocks aren't very expensive, buy or make the cal trac bars along with their 9 way adjustable shocks and go racing. I wouldn't throw any money at SS springs, period.
 
Caltrac users....

What did you do for the lower shock attaching? Grade 5 bolt?
 
JBurch said:
the shocks are too loose, too short


What I beleave is happening is that the rear is coming up too fast, the body comes to the end of travel of the shock and that unloads the rear and it starts hopping like a rabbit.

Slow body rise down just a little; remember simple Physics "for every action, there is an opposite reaction" because as the body RISES, it's pushing DOWN on the tire.

Jason PM me.
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^^^^^ Xs2

Before Caltracs, we used to hook by clamping the front of the springs to make them solid as a "bar". (Caltrac)

Longer shocks, I used Charger shocks, some IIRC used the Imperial shock..

Pinion snubber worked for me.

Loosey goosey front end..

Worn out front shock, or as RRR sugested,, let the fluid out..

cheers.
 
RustyRatRod said:
No. You leave the hole open.

It's ok. You don't have to believe it or try it. It's a very old trick that's been around since dirt. It's meant to be used on cars that are either drag only or see very limited street time. The shocks become suspension travel limiters and nothing more. An empty shock allows the fastest possible weight transfer from the front.

Just tryin to save you money with an old trick that WORKS.

And no, the torsion bar suspension bounces much less than you would ever think with drilled shocks. I drove mine on the street a long time like that. At the strip it left like a big dog.
Click to expand...

This is why I was trying not sound rude or ungrateful and not leave the impression I don't believe you?
How? Do I ever go about getting a little more insight without seeming like I'm insulting you!? Lol

Sooo anyways, i think I started asking about the Caltracs with the /6 springs that I agree should work better with the mono's they were designed for (actual results seem to very). $700 OUCH maybe next season.
sooo, on with your next suggestion: ss springs, there on the x-mas list and I can afford them if Santa dosnt come through. I've got cheap summit drag shocks all the way around on same list and if santa don't come through I'll start a drillin holes.
As far as everyone chiming in about the colossally obvious that I need to lower the front and get weight transfer- that little jewel of information became blatantly obvious over the entire season of drag racing last summer.
I've just never been able to afford money and time to do everything in one shot. I have til April to have had my first drag car for two years - i'll get there. 11.7 this year. Goal: 11.2-3 this next year (200 lbs heavier with roll bar and dana) and 10.99 the year after...
 
I didn't take your post as an insult at all. I am simply trying to help you get where you want to be and not spend a bajillion dollars doin it.

People say stuff like "I won't use the SS springs ever" really make me wonder.

They were and have been used since the 1964 SS cars came out on cars that go deep into the eight second bracket.

They are simple.

They are cost effective.

They work.

I'm sorry, I just don't see a down side there.

Are they 50 year old technology? Well yeah. But so are our cars. That 50 year old technology will still work just fine today.
 
I know this will give away my Mopar dinosaur status but
I still look at caltrac's the same way I see Schumacher's and most of the other modern Mopar suppliers.
Yes they work.
Yes there expensive.
Yes there businesses are helping a lot of Mopar guys.
No I never used any of there parts personally.
Its just because we already worked this stuff out on our cars before these companies ever started selling parts.
There was a day when you couldn't talk anyone into spending that much on getting a car to hook.
 
ssba said:
I know this will give away my Mopar dinosaur status but
I still look at caltrac's the same way I see Schumacher's and most of the other modern Mopar suppliers.
Yes they work.
Yes there expensive.
Yes there businesses are helping a lot of Mopar guys.
No I never used any of there parts personally.
Its just because we already worked this stuff out on our cars before these companies ever started selling parts.
There was a day when you couldn't talk anyone into spending that much on getting a car to hook.
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Yes. The MP books showed us how to cut and modify motor mount brackets to put big blocks in A bodys 40 years ago. People have become too lazy to do it themselves so these niche markets like Schumacher start catching on.

Not knocking the Schumacher stuff. I have used some of it myself. But the fact remains we had most all this stuff worked out a long time ago. Now when we bring up using the old stuff we get laughed at and ridiculed.
 
I right there with ya Rob getting it done the cheap old way to this day.
Every Mopar racer should have the old engine and chassis manuals.
 
ssba said:
I right there with ya Rob getting it done the cheap old way to this day.
Every Mopar racer should have the old engine and chassis manuals.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%, but telling some of them they should invest in those two books is like talkin to a brick wall.
 
ssba said:
I right there with ya Rob getting it done the cheap old way to this day.
Every Mopar racer should have the old engine and chassis manuals.
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If they don't, they will spend lot's of money and lot's of time trying to figure out what has already been figured for them. lol I found the DC chassis and engine book under the xmas tree 35 years ago. never felt the need to get the mopar performance edition
 
ssba said:
I right there with ya Rob getting it done the cheap old way to this day.
Every Mopar racer should have the old engine and chassis manuals.
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct on this.........however people don't want to sit down and read printed materiel in their hand, they would much rather sit down at their computer and log into a site like this with the belief that this is some how "better".

My engine manual and chassis manual are dog eared, beat up, distressed books from use and abuse, I still study them looking for ideas.
 
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