Cam I should use?

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Mopar Tim

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Just found this in my shop, unused energizer 272h10. Crane 454 lift / 272 duration / 110 lobe seperation. 323 gears, auto in my 66 318 with 302 heads. Factory exhaust manifolds. 500 cfm AFB on stock 4bbl intake.
Should I use it?
Street use
Title got put in wrong should say should I use.
 
Tim
I have noticed the excellent quality of your posts. So Ima wondering why you ask.
Well, I might have a wiped lobe on the cam installed, New cam, but I have to replace at least one lifter, wont pump up, have a new set coming from ISKY. While took apart I was thinking about this cam that I never used. Im thinking it might be a good choice, but I cant remember why I bought it.
 
I'm not a techy guy when it comes to cam choices but this one looks a little rough with your combo. What's your compression? I think headers, a 2500 stall converter, and maybe a steeper gear might be needed. A 268/.485/114° in a stock teen set up is borderline too much. This cam is a powerful one with all the right add on's. Just my take on it.
 
In that case, I'll throw in with TMM.

I have a 276/286/110 Hughes HE3037 in my 367cuber. It's as big as I care to go.It screams to 7000plus through TTIs and Dual 3inchers.It was not hard to tune, but I have an M/T with a starter gear of 10.97. With your 3.23x2.45x1.13(a guess for TC multiplication), that works out to about 8.86. Without a generous TC, Ima thinking it might be a disappointment. Furthermore, mine burns a good bit of fuel.
You could make it work, with more rear gear, and a TC, but then it will burn even more fuel. And she won't be happy with manifolds.And we haven't even mentioned D-Cr
So all-in-all,
It is my opinion that
that one should wait for a different application.
 
This is the one, 4th from the top [ame]http://www.cranecams.com/154-157.pdf[/ame]
 
272 with 216 @.050?!! yikes. To me that is a tomato stake, to paraphrase someone else. That cam appears to have very loooong "clearance ramps".It will "bleed" away what little compression the teener has. It will idle like a big cam but deliver nothing.It will drop your Dcr into the basement, really deep.
A quick calculation shows that if you had a true 8.5Scr, this cam will drop your Dcr to about 6.9, and your cylinder pressure to 131ish.That might be a real dog with anything but big gears and a generous TC.
With a low compression teener, you need the fastest lobes you can find. You might look for 40 to 45 degrees from the .050 spec to the advertised spec. So a 216 plus 42 = 258. That would be a reasonable spread. This one is 272 -216=56degrees. Thats about the slowest I've seen.
The Wallace calculator shows that cam to perk up with 10.5Scr so I guess if you had a 10.5teener, and needed a lumpy tow-truck motor, this might work out. "energizer"? Energize what exactly"?Oh I get it, You can run some really wussy springs on that cuz it will be all done by 5000. Maybe less.
Let's get back to that theoretical 258adv./216@050/110Lda cam.Say you installed a cam like that at 4*advanced. Your installed intake closing angle would be 55* instead of 62*.Your Dcr (still with the true 8.5Scr),would only drop to 7.25 and the cylinder pressure might jump to 140psi.So you see how those faster ramps really pay off.( the .050 numbers are the same.)
There's a boatload of better cams out there.
Let's summarize that. With no change in the Scr or the.050 spec. or the Lda or the ICL. The Dynamic compression rises .35 of a point and you gain about 9psi of cylinder pressure.And there's still faster cams out there.And you could tighten up the Lda.Or drop 6 degrees of intake duration.
And then there's custom.
 
Perfect cam for the current parts it will work with. Throw that baby in there and enjoy. The idle will be good.
More performance will be found in better or ported heads.
 
Available alone or with lifters, the Energizer Series of performance hydraulic camshafts offers streetable performance with serious torque, horsepower, and RPM gains at an affordable price. These single-pattern camshafts have profiles with tighter lobe separations for added torque, midrange power, and throttle response. They're great for stock or mildly modified V8 applications (not for computer-controlled engines). Description, Can you explain the "Tomato stake"? I know you mean worthless as a cam shaft, but why?
 
I used the one after it several times because of the heads being dead stock. The extra exhaust duration helps a bit. The cam is super streetable. The lobes are lazy by compare to what is popular.

It'll make power.
 
Available alone or with lifters, the Energizer Series of performance hydraulic camshafts offers streetable performance with serious torque, horsepower, and RPM gains at an affordable price. These single-pattern camshafts have profiles with tighter lobe separations for added torque, midrange power, and throttle response. They're great for stock or mildly modified V8 applications (not for computer-controlled engines). Description, Can you explain the "Tomato stake"? I know you mean worthless as a cam shaft, but why?
I paraphrased someone who called a 284/114 cam a garden stake or some such a thing.
If you go back to the post you will see that I expanded on it some.
 
Thanks guys, I hope I dont have to pull old, less then 300 miles, out. might just be a bad lifter.
 
LOL. Lobes like the side of the Empire State Building!
To it's credit tho it does hit .484 lift with just 216/2=108 degrees. That part is pretty good. Plus once you get her reved up, she will pull. It's just the getting there. Tim said street use. That kinda indicates a small TC.And that will be a handicap.And with 3.23s, everything just takes too long to get going, and then just when it starts to work you hit 52@5200 and it's time to shift.And the the Rs drop back 3000, and that poor cam is trying to claw it's way back up out of that hole.And we haven't eve talked about what the exhaust ain't doing.
IDK. It seems to me for $250ish, I'd rather get a cam with faster rate of lift,designed for the.904lifter; and enjoy the off-idle pull.
 
I'm running that cam in my 360, and it is an excellent grind! I also ran that cam in a 74 Charger years ago that was a 318 as well. with headers and an Eddy 4DP intake and 750 holley, 2.94 rear that ran a consistent 15.1 everytime. Great street cam.
 
I'm running that cam in my 360, and it is an excellent grind! I also ran that cam in a 74 Charger years ago that was a 318 as well. with headers and an Eddy 4DP intake and 750 holley, 2.94 rear that ran a consistent 15.1 everytime. Great street cam.

Excellent for your combo. Notice,not a word about street or log-manifolds, or 3.23s ,etc.
What stall TC might those have been?
 
Kinda depends on how quick you want to get off the line. Cheaper to buy a cam kit, and not need a TC. Better to get a 3.55s. That's an almost instant 10% torque boost.The faster cam will probably do that, and it will do it through-out the Rpm range. The TC can't touch that.All the TC can do is get you off the line a little quicker by virtue of the fact that it lets the engine get a little further up it's torque curve.
So if the stock TC is about 1800 with the stock cam, this Dcr bleeder might drop a 100rpm off. So call it a 1700, Now if that cam is still soft at 2000, and you pick up a few ft lbs, it will still be soft.You will need more than a few.

Let's talk percents cuz it's pretty safe.
The 3.55s are just a math calc; 3.55/3.23 =1.1 or plus 10% and this is effective throughout the rpm range.Your cruise rpm will jump 10% as well. This may or ma not affect your mileage.
The faster cam might pick up different %s throughout the rev range, but at 1700 it might pick up 5%(a guess). But at peak torque, it might pick up more. And it will get better fuel mileage, because of the higher Dcr, which makes more torque.
The TC jumping to 2000 rpm, might deliver 4%(a guess), and after about 20mph it will do nothing else for you,and it will cost you fuel mileage.It will give you little to nothing after it locks up.
-Let's say; you are cruising around at 30mph in Drive, and it's go time; the tranny will kick down into first, and the rpm pops up to around 2949. This is well past lock-up, so the TC is more or less along for the ride.It don't matter if it's 1700 or 2000 or 2800.And the cam won't wake up for nearly another 1000rpm; so 40 mph is where it wakes up. But it won't be pulling hard for another 800 rpm or so, say 48mph. And you are still in first gear.See how this works? No disrespect meant.

So what matters most to you:Jack-rabbit starts,fuel mileage,or Dollars per mile driven.
 
Kinda depends on how quick you want to get off the line. Cheaper to buy a cam kit, and not need a TC. Better to get a 3.55
But I want to keep my cruising RPM as low as possible. 14 in wheels and 24 1/2 tall rear tires.
 
Well then you have to make a sacrifice. It's always about sacrifices.

Those small tires throw a monkey wrench into a lot of the quoted mphs, but it does not change the intent. Those 24.5s will cruise around 2900@65, so I see your point. Those tires are about 10% smaller than I was using in my calcs; which were 27s.
That 2900 cruising speed throws fuel mileage out.
That just leaves jack-rabbit starts.
So how do you want to do it? A big TC or a torquier cam? If you stick with this cam, you are gonna need more than 2000. But you kinda want to stay under your cruising rpm, if you do a lot of it. Since your engine is doing 2900@65, I'd go with a 2800. Now this TC will probably want a deep tranny pan and an auxilliary cooler, and a bigger rad fan, so budget accordingly. Your results will vary.Remember there are a lot of ways to skin this cat. And again there are a boatload of better cams for your application.
 
Energizer cam series made some good power and we're easy on valvetrains. I'd use it without thinking twice in your combination. I think you'll be happy with the results.
 
Tim,

I would run the Crane 272 with a set of Rhoades lifters. It will run great!
 
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