Kinda depends on how quick you want to get off the line. Cheaper to buy a cam kit, and not need a TC. Better to get a 3.55s. That's an almost instant 10% torque boost.The faster cam will probably do that, and it will do it through-out the Rpm range. The TC can't touch that.All the TC can do is get you off the line a little quicker by virtue of the fact that it lets the engine get a little further up it's torque curve.
So if the stock TC is about 1800 with the stock cam, this Dcr bleeder might drop a 100rpm off. So call it a 1700, Now if that cam is still soft at 2000, and you pick up a few ft lbs, it will still be soft.You will need more than a few.
Let's talk percents cuz it's pretty safe.
The 3.55s are just a math calc; 3.55/3.23 =1.1 or plus 10% and this is effective throughout the rpm range.Your cruise rpm will jump 10% as well. This may or ma not affect your mileage.
The faster cam might pick up different %s throughout the rev range, but at 1700 it might pick up 5%(a guess). But at peak torque, it might pick up more. And it will get better fuel mileage, because of the higher Dcr, which makes more torque.
The TC jumping to 2000 rpm, might deliver 4%(a guess), and after about 20mph it will do nothing else for you,and it will cost you fuel mileage.It will give you little to nothing after it locks up.
-Let's say; you are cruising around at 30mph in Drive, and it's go time; the tranny will kick down into first, and the rpm pops up to around 2949. This is well past lock-up, so the TC is more or less along for the ride.It don't matter if it's 1700 or 2000 or 2800.And the cam won't wake up for nearly another 1000rpm; so 40 mph is where it wakes up. But it won't be pulling hard for another 800 rpm or so, say 48mph. And you are still in first gear.See how this works? No disrespect meant.
So what matters most to you:Jack-rabbit starts,fuel mileage,or Dollars per mile driven.