Cam install confusion

[Kendog 170]

Ok, so I'm changing from hydraulic to solid cam and lifters. Heads are on so I check TDC with a piston stop confirmed my balancer TDC aligns at TDC on timing cover. Keyway on crank at two o'clock position. Timing gears are dot to dot. What's confusing me is at this setting the valve adjustment chart says to adjust #2 intake valve. Well see pic. The lifter is already rising. Installing a

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 23-233-4​

 

[4spdragtop]

Both dots should be 12 o'clock. Dot to dot is #6 tdc

 

[66fs]

That chart has never worked for me. I can always find more adjustment after using it. Do you have a degree wheel? Find TDC on the compression stroke first and go from there.

 

[Kendog 170]

Find TDC on the compression stroke first and go from there.

Did you read? Heads are on. I used a piston stop.

Both dots should be 12 o'clock. Dot to dot is #6 tdc

My Cam dot is at 6 o'clock and crank dot at twelve. I've never done 12 and 12.?

 

[Desoto291hemi]

Rotate the crank one turn and you will have 12 and 12

Then your engine will be on TDC #1

Tommy

 

[Kendog 170]

Ohh, now I get it.
Thanks

 

[Kendog 170]

That chart has never worked for me

I never use it as well. Only for a reference. I've always adjust all valves like below.

Valve Lash Adjustment



Starting at Number 1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on the intake rocker at this time. Continue rotating the assembly and stop when the intake rocker starts returning from full lift. Now the lash on the exhaust rocker can now be set. Continue this procedure for the remaining cylinders following the engine’s firing order.

If setting preload for Hydraulic lifters remove up and down play on pushrod then add ¼ to ½ turn of preload. Some people say tighten until you it gets hard to turn the pushrod then set preload I don’t agree with this method as the lifter may not be pumped up. JMO. If the motor was just running then yes this works.



This method works on almost any flat tappet engine

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I’ve used that chart since 1980. It’s not hard.

I don’t know how you’d use it without a degree wheel or the damper on.

 

[BSB67]

There is nothing wrong with that chart. Just make sure you are on the correct valve at the correct piston position.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Did you read? Heads are on. I used a piston stop.

My Cam dot is at 6 o'clock and crank dot at twelve. I've never done 12 and 12.?
View attachment 1716474824

Dot to dot is timed on #6. Crank dot and cam dot both at 12 is timed on #1.

 

[RustyRatRod]

There is nothing wrong with that chart. Just make sure you are on the correct valve at the correct piston position.

I agree, UNTIL you start getting into really large solid flat tappet cams and big rollers. They will skew that chart all to heck and back. I have one stuck on my toolbox. For decoration.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I agree, UNTIL you start getting into really large solid flat tappet cams and big rollers. They will skew that chart all to heck and back. I have one stuck on my toolbox. For decoration.

I’ve used that chart on some very big cams. Not just my junk.

My biggest cam was 288/296 @ .050 and I’ve done bigger and it was always spot on.

You can look at the lifters on the lobes and you can see the lifter is always about 180 degrees from the centerline of the lobe.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I’ve used that chart on some very big cams. Not just my junk.

My biggest cam was 288/296 @ .050 and I’ve done bigger and it was always spot on.

You can look at the lifters on the lobes and you can see the lifter is always about 180 degrees from the centerline of the lobe.

Interesting. That's not been my experience. Maybe there was some other voodoo involved.

 

[Kendog 170]

Dot to dot is times on #6. Crank dot and cam dot both at 12 is timed on #1.

Yes. That's what messed me up. My degree wheel was 180 out. My brain farts a lot now. lol I trust the chart and may use it for my initial set up. Lash specs are .016 In. .018 Ex. I have alum. heads. Should I be setting a tighter lash? If so what would be recommended.

 

[66fs]

I never use it as well. Only for a reference. I've always adjust all valves like below.

Valve Lash Adjustment



Starting at Number 1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on the intake rocker at this time. Continue rotating the assembly and stop when the intake rocker starts returning from full lift. Now the lash on the exhaust rocker can now be set. Continue this procedure for the remaining cylinders following the engine’s firing order.

If setting preload for Hydraulic lifters remove up and down play on pushrod then add ¼ to ½ turn of preload. Some people say tighten until you it gets hard to turn the pushrod then set preload I don’t agree with this method as the lifter may not be pumped up. JMO. If the motor was just running then yes this works.



This method works on almost any flat tappet engine

That will will get you close enough, I don't like close enough. When I double check my lash at different places, I have found the lash is loose with the chart. That being said, the dot to dot method works either way, but I always start by finding TDC on the compression stroke. I do find true TDC before doing anything, I have seen them 10 degrees off. I also use a degree wheel when setting up a cam.

 

[Gator]

Did you read? Heads are on. I used a piston stop.

My Cam dot is at 6 o'clock and crank dot at twelve. I've never done 12 and 12.?
View attachment 1716474824

I just did mine and the crank is at 12 with the cam at 6. That is why they call it dot-dot. Yours looks good.

 

[Woody500]

I never use it as well. Only for a reference. I've always adjust all valves like below.

Valve Lash Adjustment



Starting at Number 1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on the intake rocker at this time. Continue rotating the assembly and stop when the intake rocker starts returning from full lift. Now the lash on the exhaust rocker can now be set. Continue this procedure for the remaining cylinders following the engine’s firing order.

If setting preload for Hydraulic lifters remove up and down play on pushrod then add ¼ to ½ turn of preload. Some people say tighten until you it gets hard to turn the pushrod then set preload I don’t agree with this method as the lifter may not be pumped up. JMO. If the motor was just running then yes this works.



This method works on almost any flat tappet engine

Called the Valve Overlap procedure, it is the preferred race engine method of valve adjustment.
When adjusting valves on some stock engines(not Mopar)using 'normal methods' straight from the specifications for those engines and then resetting with Overlap, I've seen more valve lift.
I've known supposed knowledgeable Sprint Car mechanics that didn't know about this, so check it out if you've never done it this way.

 

[Swinger 340]

I never use it as well. Only for a reference. I've always adjust all valves like below.

Valve Lash Adjustment



Starting at Number 1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on the intake rocker at this time. Continue rotating the assembly and stop when the intake rocker starts returning from full lift. Now the lash on the exhaust rocker can now be set. Continue this procedure for the remaining cylinders following the engine’s firing order.

If setting preload for Hydraulic lifters remove up and down play on pushrod then add ¼ to ½ turn of preload. Some people say tighten until you it gets hard to turn the pushrod then set preload I don’t agree with this method as the lifter may not be pumped up. JMO. If the motor was just running then yes this works.



This method works on almost any flat tappet engine

I'm not saying, do as I do, but on my old 350 chevies, I use to loosen the rocker arm until I would hear a slight click, then give the nut one complete turn. Did that to all 16 and never had an issue. I did have a friend once, that pulled out a stud. Not sure if that was the cause. I did not set him up.

 

[Kendog 170]

That's how my dad did his chevy

 

[66fs]

I'm not saying, do as I do, but on my old 350 chevies, I use to loosen the rocker arm until I would hear a slight click, then give the nut one complete turn. Did that to all 16 and never had an issue. I did have a friend once, that pulled out a stud. Not sure if that was the cause. I did not set him up.

I used to only give them 1/4 turn. Never had a problem.