Camshaft Lube

[jefflock]

Since my new cam and lifters didn't come with any breakin lube what should I use? Is presoaking the lifters recommended? Thanks Jeff

 

[perfacar]

hi, you have to use a cam lube on lifter bottoms and cam lobes. ARP has an excellent moly lube. crane has same stuff. it has to have moly disulfide it it. also if using shelf oil, add 1 pint of GM EOS to the oil . if you use 15-40 diesel oil , it has the zinc phophates needed for cam life. Comp cams ,calls for shell rotella 15-40 diesel oil with their cams. be sure to run motor at 2500 RPM for at least 10 minutes to break in cam/lifters.

 

[340mopar]

I assume it is a flat tappet cam and not a roller, because a roller wouldn't require the cam lube. I would contact the cam manufacturer, they will probably send you some free of charge.. or at least should.


Chuck

 

[rumblefish360]

I second perfacar. Comp Cams has lube as well as Crane etc.......
The suggested oil is often used for it's contents. Other oils lack what it takes. Though I have not read "Diesel oil", I can not see it hurting.

 

[mikedevore]

do not presoak the lifters!

 

[lead69]

I believe the stuff comp uses is the same stuff as the arp red assembly lube-thats my favorite stuff.Zinc comes in many froms,rotella shell oil is a high source of zinc and alot enthusiasts are using it as well as comp reccomends it.I use good ole stp in every oil change-even on break in,I just pour it over the cam and lifters after the lube is on,cheap insurance.

 

[Robbie2734]

do not presoak the lifters!

Hi , I always presoaked my lifters and haven't had a problem yet...things change though and maybe there is a good reason to not presoak them. Could you tell me your reason for not doing it??

 

[dgc333]

Presoaking them fills the lifter with oil and can hold the valves open when you first start the engine. Definaely makes it harder to start and will run rough until they bleed down.

Just use break in lube on the bottom and coat the outside with motor oil. They will pump up much faster than they will bleed down.

 

[Dusterb318]

You guys need to realize that the Diesel oils on the shelves have now dropped the zinc package as well....the 2007 Diesel emmisions requirments have tightened up the restrictions. With the new fuel and the new particulate filters ont he diesel trucks the ZDDP package was yanked out of the diesel oils as well. Now they still have some but not near as much as they used to. You should be running a racing type oil to get full protection...something like Royal Purple, Redline, Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1. Look on the Diesel oil package and if it says SM or CJ-4 put it back on the shelf cause that's the stuff for the new diesels. IIRC the oil diesel oil that still meets the new specs and kept the zinc package or most of it anyway is the Valvoline Premium Blue.

 

[rumblefish360]

He he he, Like your truck Avatar

Good tip on the oils. Comp Cams has additive cans of the high zinc stuff for this cam break in useage and I believe you can keep useing it as well.

 

[Dusterb318]

Ya know some of the diesel oils still have the zinc but it is greatly reduced. People need to do some research on the ratings and go from there. If you want to be totally safe run a racing oil that isn't EPA approved for passenger cars and then you don't have to worry.

 

[Robbie2734]

Presoaking them fills the lifter with oil and can hold the valves open when you first start the engine. Definaely makes it harder to start and will run rough until they bleed down.

Just use break in lube on the bottom and coat the outside with motor oil. They will pump up much faster than they will bleed down.

OK, I gotcha...next cam I'll try that. Last was a comp cams he260 and I used Summit lifters. The cam broke in with no problem and the lifters are VERY quiet...until I really bump the timing. The heads had stock springs tho....