Can't burnout:(

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ahhhh I like burn'ts Idea the best but if a four speed isn't in the cards get a widshield washer resivoir and fill that puppy with bleach and aim the squirter at the tire,push the button(yep the red button) for a few seconds and letter riiiipppppppp!!!!!if it wont do a burnout with bleach assist.....install a slanty six in there,Mine will pull a ripper!!!!
 
I think we set the initial around 12-14*. If I remember correctly the distributor has 21* built into it. Just a stock replacment distributor. I know for sure the initial was more than 10*

A buddy of mine joked about doing a neutral drop. Don't want to chance ruining the trans. Im sure that would do the trick lol
 
Don't do those!

Something is off.
Granted you have an automatic and a sure-grip, however with a fresh performance engine it should be able to turn the tires, especially with 3.23 gears.
 
I think you should give it more gas. As long as you don't sit there for five minutes holding the gas and the brake to the floor it won't really do anything to your transmission except heat it up from converter slip, and once you get going it will cool down soon enough anyway.
 
If your rear brakes are adjusted properly, the tires will resist spinning when you depress the brake......just simple physics.......In the old days, when we couldn't afford line locks and other fancy shmancy stuff, we'd back off the rear adjusters with a simple brake tool (looked like a bent chisel about a half inch wide....came in a set with differing angles) until we had free spin at pedal......when we braked at the warm-up pit, the tires would smoke freely.

BUT, if you do this, you're asking for trouble when driving in the rain, OR having to brake hard and suddenly, OR if you have front drums instead of discs...it's NOT for the faint of heart.....4 brakes equal much better control during a stop.

Otherwise, have someone install a line-lock for you.......then have a blast!!
 
You said the motor was rebuilt. Did they put in new pistons,possibly with a loss of compression?
 
Timing doesnt sound so retarded as to stop it patching out....14 inital is probably too much - unless you've limited your mechanical advance?

1/ Check to make sure you are getting all 4BBLs at WOT

2/ Check your compression

3/ Check your A/F at WOT (around 12.5 is good)


It still worries me that you reckon you have 21 in the dissy - remember, a recurve limits "how much" as well as "how quickly" your timing comes in.

Most factory SB dists are either 13 or 15 in the plate (see link below -it talks about 30 deg mechanical from the factory! )

- so thats 26 or 30 mech total - unless your dissy has had the mech. advance "limited", if you run any more than 10 initial, you're risking detonation under WOT.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0301_mopar_electronic_ignition_system/index.html
 
needsaresto said:
You said the motor was rebuilt. Did they put in new pistons,possibly with a loss of compression?
Click to expand...

New pistons were put in with the re-build. Im not sure what kind or brand they were. But the engine builder (who is known for building mopars) said that the motor will have 9:1 compression.

I was talking to a friend yesterday about the issue. He has a 318 Dart that is nearly stock. We were at the local track and he was running 15.4 all day. Last fall I couldn't get into the 15's with my car. And said his Dart can burn them from a stop lol. I plan on taking my car to him and see what he can do. He thinks it's in the timing/carburetor. I know he is very experience in working on small blocks. Hopefully we can pin-point the problem.

I'll probably create a new thread about it when we do this. I'll bring up everyones suggestions.

Thanks for all your help.
 
Was the cam degreed when installed or were the dot lined up and let it rip.

I had a timing set a few months ago that was 8* retarded out of the box.
 
you said your heads have port work and eddie intake, if its a high rise or a big intake you have loss massive bottom end compared to before. ive run many 318 both 2 and four barrel 3.23,s all able to spin tires. now i have a 273 that sounds exactly as your 318 gutless off the line. only thing i figure can change it is a big stall 3000 or so or check the cam degree as crackedback said.

heres how i got the most out of my273.. i put big blocks in front of the tires and power braked it w/a buddy under the hood turning the timing till it felt most powerful. but still no tire spin out the hole. cam may need to be degreed.(dont run over your buddy)
good luck let us know how its turns out.
 
Definately not a problem with it being a 318 ;)

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1971-Dodge-Dart-318_75793.htm

I think it could be the transmission. Most likely the torque converter; wrong stall/maybe slipping to much. I knew someone with a 360 duster with the same problem! They tuned it over and over and that thing would just not move good at all, or burn out. I was thinking it was probably the trans. My car used to act more like that until I put a better torque converter in it, it would still chirp but took way more effort. So cehck tuning first then go to the trans.
 
I was with a few mopar guys last evening. Two of them tried doing a burnout with my car. They both said my front brakes are not holding, and there is an issue with the booster. I have always noticed the pedal get's hard right before I come to a complete stop. Almost like I loose my power assist. The pads were replaced last summer with raybestos. Rotors looked great so we left them on. Booster is probably original to the car but master cylinder is a few years old. Check valve is fine. While standing around the car they all said it sounds great with know missing, stuttering, and the rear rises up. Also said at one point the rear tires almost gave loose but my front brakes let off with the brake pedal as far down as possible.

We took a vacuum gauge to the booster while running in gear. One guy had the vacuum cap off the other port on the check valve. At idel in "D" it shows around 17psi. I then loaded it up trying to do a burnout. The gauge then showed around 5psi. I don't think it should be that low. The cam is only a 340 spec so nothing radical. Possibly my booster is going bad.

I was thinking about finding a large empty parking lot, disconnecting the booster hose from the intake and plugging it. Then trying to burnout. Would this be okay just to try? Or would I cause other brake issues? I guess I would basically have manual brakes.

I have another question though. I have had people tell me to start in "1" then powerbrake it to burnout and others say to start in "2" So what difference does it make? I thought it would be okay to start in "D"

Thanks again for all the feedback. Info is still appreciated.
 
ehh Start in 1 if anything but, Im not so sure if its that safe
 
74Burntorange said:
ehh Start in 1 if anything but, Im not so sure if its that safe
Click to expand...


By not being safe are you referring to disconnecting the booster hose from the intake for few minutes to see if thats where my problem is?

Defiently wouldn't be a good idea on the street or in traffic. Just an accident waiting to happen. I would think an empty parking lot would be okay though.
 
I meant strating in 1st gear to burnout becasue you might over do the sprag
 
With a stock valve body in low a brake holds the sprag, so it is better to do it in 1st.
 
whats the deal with the sprag?? do shift kits affect anything?

and my car with a one inch spacer you can notice loss in bottom end but you notice the gains mainly at hiway speed
 
7duster4 said:
We took a vacuum gauge to the booster while running in gear. One guy had the vacuum cap off the other port on the check valve. At idel in "D" it shows around 17psi. I then loaded it up trying to do a burnout. The gauge then showed around 5psi. I don't think it should be that low. The cam is only a 340 spec so nothing radical. Possibly my booster is going bad.

I was thinking about finding a large empty parking lot, disconnecting the booster hose from the intake and plugging it. Then trying to burnout. Would this be okay just to try? Or would I cause other brake issues? I guess I would basically have manual brakes.

I have another question though. I have had people tell me to start in "1" then powerbrake it to burnout and others say to start in "2" So what difference does it make? I thought it would be okay to start in "D"

Thanks again for all the feedback. Info is still appreciated.
Click to expand...
The drop in manifold vacuum with throttle application is normal. The harder you work the engine, the closer it moves to 0" hg. I wouldn't think the pedal should go stiff that quickly though.

My understanding of the potential hazard of starting a burnout in 1st is that if you back out of the throttle, the shock generated may scatter the sprag. I may be way off as I'm still getting my feet wet with how a TorqueFlite works.
 
ok and the sprag does what? in the trany all i know is it spins almost twice the speed of the motor and thats about it??
 
doktor_x said:
The drop in manifold vacuum with throttle application is normal. The harder you work the engine, the closer it moves to 0" hg. I wouldn't think the pedal should go stiff that quickly though.

My understanding of the potential hazard of starting a burnout in 1st is that if you back out of the throttle, the shock generated may scatter the sprag. I may be way off as I'm still getting my feet wet with how a TorqueFlite works.
Click to expand...

Thats seems to make sense regarding what gear to start when attemtping a burnout. Defiently something to think about. Tomorrow i'll try disconnecting my booster hose and see what happens. Just weird, when I purchased this car it was nearly stock. Even had a 2.45 ring and pinion and 2-barrel carter. But I could still burnout with little effort. The brake pedal travel was always smooth. The first thing I noticed when I drove it with the rebuilt engine was the stiff brake pedal before completely stopping. Once I had 500miles broken into the engine I attempted to do a burnout and got absolutley nothing. Something is going on.
 
brian,
i wonder if your rear brakes are adjusted up too much? have you tried any panic stops to see if it locks up the rears early? also did you convert from front drums to discs and if so did you use the proper master cylinder and distribution block. maybe when you are trying to burn out you are getting too much fluid pressure to the rear brakes. fyi my dart has NO problem doing huge burnouts so when you finally get it figured out we need to go have a contest somewhere haha. we should take them down to edgewater or tri-state and run em!
-Tim
 
crackedback said:
Was the cam degreed when installed or were the dot lined up and let it rip.

I had a timing set a few months ago that was 8* retarded out of the box.
Click to expand...

also what i suspect. a cam a tooth off will run finebut be a dog out of the hole
 
Optik said:
brian,
i wonder if your rear brakes are adjusted up too much? have you tried any panic stops to see if it locks up the rears early? also did you convert from front drums to discs and if so did you use the proper master cylinder and distribution block. maybe when you are trying to burn out you are getting too much fluid pressure to the rear brakes. fyi my dart has NO problem doing huge burnouts so when you finally get it figured out we need to go have a contest somewhere haha. we should take them down to edgewater or tri-state and run em!
-Tim
Click to expand...

I think we found the issue and it is brake related. I took it to a friends house down the road. At first I was thinking my booster was going bad. He is saying I should get a new master cylinder. My booster is fine. He took my current one off to check it. The past owner did not install this right. And it was even missing a rubber bushing that goes with it. He adjusted the rod from inside to give me more pedal travel therefore keeping the front brakes from slipping. Right there in his driveway he got the rear tires to turn. So I guess i'll be getting a master cylinder just to be on the safe side of things. He also recommened getting a different carburetor. He is a Holley guy. Right now I have a 500cfm eddie performer. Im sure it could be upgraded.

Tim, what kind of carb you running on your Dart? If it is a Holley have you had any issues with it before? I have always heard Holleys are bad for reliability. But my buddy has never had a problem. Im also looking forward to running my car at the track :)
 
Install a line lock (roll control) for the front brakes... you should smoke them then. If you are racing someone just stomp it and you'll have great traction.
 
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