replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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sigh...........I thought post 22 covered those things, oh well ........
CAP Auto Products
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replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2008
- Messages
- 6,051
- Reaction score
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And, who are you going to get to do your alingment after you shell out for the fancy new arms?
First of all, I wouldn't get CAP UCA's again. I have a set on my Challenger, and am not particularly impressed, they will be replaced when finances allow (welds look ok). Their design isn't a bad one, but they have quality control issues with their MIG welding. I have seen sets with good welds. But I've also seen evidence of at least one catastrophic weld failure, and know of 2 other failures of their UCA's that may have been caused by faulty welds.
Second, it doesn't sound like you're going about this the right way. Yes, aftermarket UCA's do correct geometry. But, this is really only a big issue on lowered cars, so, if your car isn't lowered, you should be able to get an alignment to proper specs without issue. As mentioned, caster isn't a tire wearing issue. Camber can be, but in order for it to be a big problem you have to be talking about several degrees (2+) of positive or negative camber. Inside tire wear would suggest negative camber, and if lowered Mopars gained negative camber then no one would need tubular UCA's, because their lowered cars would have the negative camber they should be looking for to improve handling. Also, if you had -2 degrees of camber, your wheels would be visibly tilted in at the tops, they'd have a VERY obvious angle to them.
So, more than likely, you're toe is set wrong, which has very little to do with your UCA's. Or something is bent.
Finally, you need to post up your alignment specs. Most tire shops will only set your car for factory specs, which shouldn't wear out your tires, but is no longer ideal for modern tires. You need to find somewhere that will align your car to more modern specs. This is especially true if you get adjustable UCA's, since your alignment guy will really have to earn his money. And a lot of shops won't work on aftermarket suspension parts like adjustable UCA's.
I run -.7 degrees camber, +4.0 caster, and 1/16" of toe in on my Challenger without issue. I've run as much as -1.5 degrees of camber without ill tire wearing effects on the street.
A picture is worth a thousand words too. Post up a picture or two of your tire wear, and/or your wheels from straight out in front of your car with the wheels straight forward. I can see the the -.7 degrees of camber I have on my wheels from the front, if your camber is so bad its wearing your tires it will be visible.
Second, it doesn't sound like you're going about this the right way. Yes, aftermarket UCA's do correct geometry. But, this is really only a big issue on lowered cars, so, if your car isn't lowered, you should be able to get an alignment to proper specs without issue. As mentioned, caster isn't a tire wearing issue. Camber can be, but in order for it to be a big problem you have to be talking about several degrees (2+) of positive or negative camber. Inside tire wear would suggest negative camber, and if lowered Mopars gained negative camber then no one would need tubular UCA's, because their lowered cars would have the negative camber they should be looking for to improve handling. Also, if you had -2 degrees of camber, your wheels would be visibly tilted in at the tops, they'd have a VERY obvious angle to them.
So, more than likely, you're toe is set wrong, which has very little to do with your UCA's. Or something is bent.
Finally, you need to post up your alignment specs. Most tire shops will only set your car for factory specs, which shouldn't wear out your tires, but is no longer ideal for modern tires. You need to find somewhere that will align your car to more modern specs. This is especially true if you get adjustable UCA's, since your alignment guy will really have to earn his money. And a lot of shops won't work on aftermarket suspension parts like adjustable UCA's.
I run -.7 degrees camber, +4.0 caster, and 1/16" of toe in on my Challenger without issue. I've run as much as -1.5 degrees of camber without ill tire wearing effects on the street.
A picture is worth a thousand words too. Post up a picture or two of your tire wear, and/or your wheels from straight out in front of your car with the wheels straight forward. I can see the the -.7 degrees of camber I have on my wheels from the front, if your camber is so bad its wearing your tires it will be visible.
mikek
New Member
I purchased the RMS (alterkation) coil overfront end. Wow, what a piece. Haven't got the car totally together yet,so have not put it to the test yet but it is a well designed piece that looks like it will handle anything that it's put to. My recomendation going by what i've reviewed.
redfastback
Don't ask me... my garage is empty
FYI, Firm Feel makes UCA's for both large and small balljoints.
Chuckbizkits
Well-Known Member
I've heard CAP's customer service and responsiveness is only second to their legendary quality.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Lol
moparman79
Member
I have a question on this CAP subject. When I search CAP, QA1 comes up are they one and the same?
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
QA1 bought the CAP crap out and took over a year to make it right. so yes they are kinda the same thing but really they are not the same thing if that makes any sense.
wazoo64
Well-Known Member
I was one of the 1st to buy Cap kmember it was an absolute failure of a product. I had to gusset and repair it multiple times. Finally threw it away. Paid $1500 for it and Ray the owner wouldn't stand behind the product. Rip off. He's a good salesman so I'm not surprised he sold qa1 the bill of goods.
Your one of the lucky ones then.
I had a set of CAP LCA's on my Challenger, right up until one of the welds fractured and caused the LCA to distort and lower my car about a 1/2" on that side before I noticed it. Further inspection of the welds showed that while they were decent enough to look ok under the powdercoating, they were far from professional welds.
I also have a set of very recently purchased QA1 LCA's for my Duster. While the design is the same, the quality of the welding is VERY different, the quality of the welding on the QA1 pieces in superior in every way. As in, I will run the QA1's on my car. I wouldn't run a CAP produced anything. And yes, I would have been happy to return the QA1 pieces if the quality had not been up to par.
wazoo64
Well-Known Member
Cap=Crap. I got the pics to prove it
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