Car audio guy here....

-
i took the easy way out.

stuck a radio under the seat with a aux cable so jamie and listen to her ipod in the dart. couple 6x9 speakers under the package deck and its perfect for our intended use..
 
I've been doing car audio for just over a decade now. Most memorable installs were a '67 Mustang, '70 Chevelle, '79 Malibu, and a '71 Challenger. Most were the retro radio's, but I did do a stealth system in the Mustang for my buddy. 6-1/2" polks under the dash up underneath facing down, 6x9 polks sunk in the rear deck with a custom package tray panel to hide them. A 4 channel eclipse amp built into an amp rack in the trunk to hide the back side of the package tray and all wiring. The only two components you can see out of everything is the fuse holder under the hood and the amp in the trunk. The radio is built into a custom panel behind the glovebox door. I really should get a hold of him to take some pictures of everything....

I used to do dbdrag and bassrace competitions too... I got the invitation to the world finals back in '08, but couldn't afford the ridiculous money they wanted AND the trip out to Indy at the time....
 
Wish you live in CT. Ive been looking for a good 12 volt for mt shop for 3 years.
 
Here is the install I did with a retrosound head unit in my Dart. Some people don't like them but I have had no issues and would defiantly use again. I need to post the finished photos. I busy with the engine swap at the moment.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=244778

Thats a good write-up with some detailed pictures. Good on ya!

To address a few issues noted in your thread, I will chime in here...

- Sound deadening is the best way to reduce vibration, road noise and panel noise. I used 108 square feet of Hushmat in my 2003 350Z show and audio competition car and its as tight of a car as you will ever hear. Even the doors shut like a Bentley. lol...

- Facing the subwoofer to the rear of the car is correct. Bass waves from lets say 35-50 hz are anywhere from 4.5-6 feet long. If the sub faced forward from behind the back seat, your bass wave will end up a couple of feet out the window. Facing rearwards will help the wave 'load' and create better sound at your head, not outside the window. Phase cancellation issue (as mentioned) can be very easily remedied by setting the sub in or out of phase as required. Some amplifiers even have built-in phase shift (0-180 degrees). Making holes in the parcel shelf will do two things: 1) It will direct more bass to the cabin and, 2) divert pressure away from the trank lid and quarters and reduce vibration. You can turn your amplifier down after this which would make things a lot more efficient.

Wish you live in CT. Ive been looking for a good 12 volt for mt shop for 3 years.

Nothing in Hartford? I was in CT last June with my wife on our Honeymoon!
 
I've been out of the know for awhile now but I use to be into car audio big time. ZAPCO was the **** for power back in my day with parametric equilazation. Very expensive but nothing could touch it even the Fosgate guys ran for the hills. 2 Zapco system 200's would still put the hurting on most stuff they make today. Serious no BS power.

I thought you did not need a head unit now and can plug in an IPad or MP3 player and play pandora etc or your play lists on the MP3 by plugging in through your amplifiers? Stash the wire up your seat belt hole and plug into your device?
 
I've been out of the know for awhile now but I use to be into car audio big time. ZAPCO was the **** for power back in my day with parametric equilazation. Very expensive but nothing could touch it even the Fosgate guys ran for the hills. 2 Zapco system 200's would still put the hurting on most stuff they make today. Serious no BS power.

I thought you did not need a head unit now and can plug in an IPad or MP3 player and play pandora etc or your play lists on the MP3 by plugging in through your amplifiers? Stash the wire up your seat belt hole and plug into your device?

Zapco was great back in the day and are still considered to be up there in quality. There are a LOT of amplifiers that are just as good if not better, are way more efficient, have more power and cost less. Rockford is all now made in China and are not even close to being quality anymore.

Believe it or not, one of the better amps out there right now is the JL HD series Class D amps. Yes, I said class D. SUPER efficient, ridiculous power and tiny size makes them big contenders in IASCA competitions all over.

Speaking of not running a radio...here is a neat little device to consider: http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/amplifiers/special-application-amplifiers/

Pretty handy dandy! I personally prefer a CD transport for high quality sound. Either that or Ipod lossless for low-compression audio files. DSP is a must for competing nowadays.
 
it's good to have you on board. I also do car audio as a side business. I got my start at age 13 installing a simple system into my 74 dart. That was almost 20 years ago. I have a killer system planned and purchased for my 70 dart but it will be a while before i get to do the install on it.

I've found that many car guys don't get too caught up on the sound system but it's something i enjoy as well. Glad to have you here.

^^^
+1
 
Hacking has already been done, now I need ideas on how to go forward.
70 duster
20221117_112458.jpg
 
I am surprised that only one person has said anything about sound deadening. If only my '69 and '72 Darts were as quiet inside as my '15 Chrysler 200. My modified stock radios are fine for me, but you have to blow your head off with volume to overcome road/engine/exhaust noise. So I am trying/experimenting with sound deadening. I already have quiet flow Walker mufflers in, and will be installing Dynamat in the '72 this winter. Just not sure how far I will have to go with it to achieve a quiet interior so that I can hear the radio.
 
I am surprised that only one person has said anything about sound deadening. If only my '69 and '72 Darts were as quiet inside as my '15 Chrysler 200. My modified stock radios are fine for me, but you have to blow your head off with volume to overcome road/engine/exhaust noise. So I am trying/experimenting with sound deadening. I already have quiet flow Walker mufflers in, and will be installing Dynamat in the '72 this winter. Just not sure how far I will have to go with it to achieve a quiet interior so that I can hear the radio.

I put Kilmat in mine a few winters ago. I had the interior out anyway, I ended up buying a box of it big enough to coat everything. I started on the firewall where it met the dash and went all the way to the back window. Overkill for sure, but I wanted it to block heat as well. The difference was night and day, I still have a few squares of it left, I plan on putting a piece inside each door as well this winter.

20210927_143516.jpg
 
I am surprised that only one person has said anything about sound deadening. If only my '69 and '72 Darts were as quiet inside as my '15 Chrysler 200. My modified stock radios are fine for me, but you have to blow your head off with volume to overcome road/engine/exhaust noise. So I am trying/experimenting with sound deadening. I already have quiet flow Walker mufflers in, and will be installing Dynamat in the '72 this winter. Just not sure how far I will have to go with it to achieve a quiet interior so that I can hear the radio.
I talked about this maybe 2 years ago, I had my interior out while replacing the engine and did some major sound deadening. 80mil kilmat across the firewall, the entire floor pan, and on the rear axle hump behind the back seat in my 64 dart. I also put it on the package tray top and bottom, and some in each door. Went triple layered over the transmission hump. It helps a ton. It's not nearly enough, any modern car is still quieter inside, but it helps a lot. The deadening on the floor helps keep a lot of road noise out, the stuff in the door is mainly to help with the rattle of the panels and give the doors a more solid sound when it closes.

Overall, highly recommend installing sound deadening. The more the better. If I get time, I'll put more in the doors, as well as dynapad (or equivalent) along the firewall and the flat parts of the floor pan to absorb more sound. The trunk is untreated, and could definitely use something.
 
How much weight did all that sound deadening add? I thought about doing that on my '70 Duster but I don't really drive it very long distances (over 100 miles) much anymore and the car is gradually becoming more track-oriented. Main reason I don't drive it a lot though is due to the road and wind noise, cruising at 80 MPH gets tiring pretty fast. Overdrive to slow the engine down at cruise would help but the wind and road noise are awful.

I have the same issue described above, I have some aftermarket speakers in the doors and rear package tray with a very old but working tape deck and I have to crank that thing up LOUD to hear it over all the noise on the freeway.
 
How much weight did all that sound deadening add? I thought about doing that on my '70 Duster but I don't really drive it very long distances (over 100 miles) much anymore and the car is gradually becoming more track-oriented. Main reason I don't drive it a lot though is due to the road and wind noise, cruising at 80 MPH gets tiring pretty fast. Overdrive to slow the engine down at cruise would help but the wind and road noise are awful.

I have the same issue described above, I have some aftermarket speakers in the doors and rear package tray with a very old but working tape deck and I have to crank that thing up LOUD to hear it over all the noise on the freeway.
About 20-25lbs from what I can tell. A pack of 36 ft^2 is 17lbs. Did slightly more than a pack.

It’s realistically not all that much weight, and it’s spread evenly along the floorpan, so if anything it slightly lowers the center of gravity, and it’s all between your wheels.
 
I've been doing car audio professionally since '88. I haven't done it consistently since then, but I do my own systems from time to time. I even had my own business for a while. One of my friends from back in the 90s has a shop now who gives me good deals.

The system I have in mind for my '67 Barracuda is fairly simple and definitely period correct.

My dad has a JC Penny am/fm 8 track player. He bought it new and it's still around.
I'm planning on using it with a pair of kick panel speakers. A Bluetooth fm modulator that will allow me to use flash drives and my cellphone. I might add some pioneer 6×9's and a small amp if I decide to, but in all likelihood I'll be listening to the 440 more than anything else.

I can buy working 8 track tapes too. That will make a nice addition at car shows.

As far as sound deadener, I'll be removing insulation other than on the firewall and the transmission hump. I want to keep excessive heat out, but I want as much weight reduction as possible without gutting the car.
 
Last edited:
I put Kilmat in mine a few winters ago. I had the interior out anyway, I ended up buying a box of it big enough to coat everything. I started on the firewall where it met the dash and went all the way to the back window. Overkill for sure, but I wanted it to block heat as well. The difference was night and day, I still have a few squares of it left, I plan on putting a piece inside each door as well this winter.

View attachment 1716014096
My interior is out of my 62 Plymouth right now. Have been thinking of using Kilmat also. Did you notice any smell/odor from the kilmat, also did it help any with reducing interior temperature >
 
My interior is out of my 62 Plymouth right now. Have been thinking of using Kilmat also. Did you notice any smell/odor from the kilmat, also did it help any with reducing interior temperature >
I have it in my 64 dart. Highly reccomend Kilmat 80 mil. Got a few boxes and put a square in every door. I also laid it down all the way from firewall back and on the package tray. I had no issues. If you roll it down, it sticks right away, no odor to speak of.
I did notice less heat kicking up into the cabin from the exhaust/transmission/road, which is much appreciated. Whenever I pull down my headliner I'll be covering that as well for more sound treatment and heat rejection.
 
I have it in my 64 dart. Highly reccomend Kilmat 80 mil. Got a few boxes and put a square in every door. I also laid it down all the way from firewall back and on the package tray. I had no issues. If you roll it down, it sticks right away, no odor to speak of.
I did notice less heat kicking up into the cabin from the exhaust/transmission/road, which is much appreciated. Whenever I pull down my headliner I'll be covering that as well for more sound treatment and heat rejection.
Thanks, I don't plan on covering every SQ IN of surfaces (maybe 50-60 % ) firewall, floor, roof, doors, the wagon has alot of surface area and would get costly fast. Did it lower the road noise in your car ?
 
Thanks, I don't plan on covering every SQ IN of surfaces (maybe 50-60 % ) firewall, floor, roof, doors, the wagon has alot of surface area and would get costly fast. Did it lower the road noise in your car ?
Yes, I get less road noise overall and less heat in the cabin. It doesn't get rid of everything but it helps. If I ever have my interior out again I plan to lay down DynaPad or similar over top of the kilmat, it's an open cell foam that also removes noise.
 
I'm all about stealth audio systems in these cars. I'm a music nut and I drive my Mopars daily, so I've always put stereos in them. Stealth for two reasons..... #1 I like my cars to look stock. #2 theft. But seriously, I think thieves these days are after cell phones and laptops, and skip over car stereo gear, but still.

Anyway, I'm doing an install now and will post photos to this thread soon. But in the meantime.... let's see some stealth install photos.... deck in glove boxes, amps etc.
 
Screenshot_20230304-134423_eBay.jpg
here's what I plan to put in the dash of my '67 Barracuda once I get to that point of the restoration.
It's a nos refurbished JC Penny am/fm 8 track.
I have the first 5 Van Halen albums on 8 track.
I'm going to get an fm modulator Bluetooth device that plugs into the cigarette lighter.
I'm going to hide an amp somewhere and use kick panel speakers, I'll probably put some 6x9s in the back.
I'm going for authenticity. I will have any tapes rebuilt that need it. I'm not concerned with "sound quality" as much, especially when I'll have over 500 horsepower.
Period correct mods are my main concern.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top