I usually like to take a 20 minute break after a hard workout too
I'm getting old also !
I'm getting old also !
Car died for 20 min after a few bouts of hard acceleration
- Thread starter Mattbearpig
- Start date
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Why? The pickup comes right out.
Mattbearpig
Member
When I was looking earlier I wasn’t able to source just the pickup but it looks like I’ve found a few now.
Look Matt, I honestly don't even know why anyone is wasting their time here. You've done a very poor job of describing your ignition. We don't know WHAT you have. Two FULL pages and you cannot post a damned picture? You are asking for help here. If I were you I would be taking pictures of every part of that ignition system, yet we have nothing. Zero. Zilch. All we know is "it's been converted do electric at some point". Do you even know how many different systems there are? Neither do I. So either you want help, or you're just here to lead people around by the nose. Which is it? How about posting up some pictures of what ignition system you have? And I mean EVERY piece. Distributor, coil, ignition box if there is one. Without knowing what type system you have, there's not a damn BIT of any of this advice you've gotten so far that's right. Help us help you, ok?
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best way is get it hot ,maybe heat gun should put out an a/c voltage when cranking
Mattbearpig
Member
Really sorry to offend you. Was just hoping someone had run into a very similar issue and it was a “no duh” kinda thing…
I’ll post some pictures another time. I’m juggling an 18 month old with a double ear infection and I’m about two weeks out from a deployment, so I don’t have a ton of time to spare. I’m also not super well versed in these cars as I am a younger guy just getting into the classic scene.
Again, sorry if you feel like I’ve wasted peoples time… I’ll add pictures shortly.
Understood. Thanks for your service and get that baby well. I'm not offended. I'm just trying to show you how important correct and complete information is. You wouldn't go to your military superiors with some incomplete info, right? Then afford us the same when you can so that we can help you.
Mattbearpig
Member
people like you are the reason I serve
And people like you are the reason I say "thank you".
Mattbearpig
Member
best I could do with a flashlight in my mouth
Perfect! Now we know what we're dealin with! That's the stock style Mopar electronic ignition. Might be somebody's aftermarket interpretation, but it still works the same. I highly recommend buying one of @halifaxhops electronic ignition troubleshooting books. I tagged him so maybe he'll chime in and yall can get together on it. In the meantime, what do you have for diagnostic tools? Volt/Ohm meter and test light will be pretty much manditory.
Mattbearpig
Member
I have a volt/ohm meter as well as a test light.
Outside of that, basic hand tools, an extra battery, brute force, and a lot of ignorance.
I’ll look into getting one of his troubleshooting books now.
abdywgn
dismantler
is the voltage regulator a points type? I believe an electronic ignition needs a constant "on" type, not one that turns on and off. could be messing with the ECU.
Ignorance is one thing we all have in common about one thing or another. Good. Glad you have some basic tools and it sure seems like you have a good attitude. Maybe until you get the book, you might measure resistance between the two terminals of the ballast resistor. Write down what you get. That's the white ceramic piece attached to the firewall in one of your pictures up there ^^^. You can also unplug the distributor and check resistance on the distributor side and record that as well. I forget what the acceptable range is, but it's pretty wide. You can post those up and we can give you some ideas of what's good early on. You can also check continuity between the ignition box and ground. I see it has a ground wire, but they must be grounded GOOD. So that means, scraping paint off where necessary to bare metal.
abdywgn
dismantler
Electronic ignition upgrade / voltage regulator question
I upgraded to an electronic ignition setup when replacing my engine years ago. No problems there, but recently I had read that if you do this it is essential to upgrade to a "new style" voltage regulator and start using a two-field alternator. I did not do this back then, and have run the car...
www.forabodiesonly.com
didn't read to see if the symptoms were the same....
Watch this corny video
Tons of great info well presented.
Also pretty much any system in you car there is a video that covers it.
Google "Chrysler master tech video" and the name of the system like "gauges"
If you haven't already got to mymopar.com and get a free PDF copy of your cars Factory service manual.
Tons of great info well presented.
Also pretty much any system in you car there is a video that covers it.
Google "Chrysler master tech video" and the name of the system like "gauges"
If you haven't already got to mymopar.com and get a free PDF copy of your cars Factory service manual.
OK.
[1] Unless p/up has VA hooked up AND done high mileage, it is unlikely to be the problem
[2] P/up gap. Should be 0.006-8". Best to remove dist & operate by hand & check; make sure p/up plate is not loose/moving.
[3] An ign coil can measure ok [ ohms ] but STILL be faulty [ internal short ]. Subsitution is the best way to check out. Same applies to bal res.
[1] Unless p/up has VA hooked up AND done high mileage, it is unlikely to be the problem
[2] P/up gap. Should be 0.006-8". Best to remove dist & operate by hand & check; make sure p/up plate is not loose/moving.
[3] An ign coil can measure ok [ ohms ] but STILL be faulty [ internal short ]. Subsitution is the best way to check out. Same applies to bal res.
let's just skip to the part where people start recommending switching to HEI and posting pictures
James Clews
Well-Known Member
Back in the seventies on my 340 I put an high energy coil on my 1 with 1974 charger with electronic ignition! the system failed so I took it to my mate (with the pionts dissy in it) and asked him to fix it. He diagnosed a damaged electronic Box and put a known good one in it. After a few minutes running on the dyno that box failed. He said it was the coil that was not compatable withe the electronic ignition box and sent me down to the dalears to buy a new electronic box!
He reinstalled with a different coil and I never had a problem again.
It appeared that some coils will not work with the chrysler boxes and man in australia those boxes were expensive in the seventies!
He reinstalled with a different coil and I never had a problem again.
It appeared that some coils will not work with the chrysler boxes and man in australia those boxes were expensive in the seventies!
The coils have to match the recommended ohms, same with the ballasts. Yes I still have the books PM me.
Mattbearpig
Member
It seems like everyone it pointing to it more-so being a symptom of ignition whether its a bad coil, ballast, pickup coil etc.
For the sake of my own curiosity, why does it seem like everyone is erring to ignition/spark rather than fuel? Just curious to help myself out in the future for diagnosing such things.
If able, tonight I'll post the results of the testing that I do.
For the sake of my own curiosity, why does it seem like everyone is erring to ignition/spark rather than fuel? Just curious to help myself out in the future for diagnosing such things.
If able, tonight I'll post the results of the testing that I do.
Fuel normally if your starving and you lift off the throttle it will come back ...
Back in the old days, I had a Mustang with points and condenser.
Driving down th road it would just quit running. Push the clutch in try to start as I'm still rolling ,no luck. Come to a complete stop on side of road cart would start right up again.
I changed the points & condenser and that fixed my problem.
Driving down th road it would just quit running. Push the clutch in try to start as I'm still rolling ,no luck. Come to a complete stop on side of road cart would start right up again.
I changed the points & condenser and that fixed my problem.
The simple answer is, so long as you have fuel in the fuel bowl(s), physics delivers fuel. The fuel gets pulled out by air going past the right spots in the carburetor. Air is delivered by he throttle blade being opened. Spark, well spark is delivered by magic! Or at least by things (circuits) doing things you cannot see.
One thing mentioned above is the reluctor gap in the distributor. Make SURE you have no more than a 0.008" gap between the reluctor "ridges" (one circled in red below) and the single metal stationary strip that is the pickup itself. If that gap is too wide, it can sometimes not deliver a pulse to the ignition box when it gets too warm/hot. Been there, done that. It's an easy check - just move the rotor until one of the reluctor ridges lines up to the pickup and put your feeler gauge in there. Best results will be obtained if you use a non-magnetic brass feeler gauge (they are usually commonly available in the 0.008 thickness). If the gap is too wide or too small, there's a screw that you can loosen to move the plate holding the pickup to set the proper gap. Good luck!
And as RRR stated, I echo the same "Thank you for your service to our country."
One thing mentioned above is the reluctor gap in the distributor. Make SURE you have no more than a 0.008" gap between the reluctor "ridges" (one circled in red below) and the single metal stationary strip that is the pickup itself. If that gap is too wide, it can sometimes not deliver a pulse to the ignition box when it gets too warm/hot. Been there, done that. It's an easy check - just move the rotor until one of the reluctor ridges lines up to the pickup and put your feeler gauge in there. Best results will be obtained if you use a non-magnetic brass feeler gauge (they are usually commonly available in the 0.008 thickness). If the gap is too wide or too small, there's a screw that you can loosen to move the plate holding the pickup to set the proper gap. Good luck!
And as RRR stated, I echo the same "Thank you for your service to our country."
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