car still diseling run on prob

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The cooler you keep your engine the fatter the fuel mixture can be. It will make more power too but of course fuel mileage will suffer. There are still some people on here that believe the hotter the engine the more power it makes, it's simply not true. It is true that heat is energy but too much heat and the air charge is less dense, that's why you can run it leaner. Plus with the colder stat and extra fuel it will help keep the intake charge cooler and the combustion chamber cooler as well. This will also reduce the tendency to detonate and diesel when shut off.
 
it still seems like im running a little rich. I checked the vaccum and im getting around 9-10 and on the vac gauge it said fuel pressure was at 8-9 but on the gauge thats on the fuel line is about 10.
 
I still think your primary throttle plates are open too far and you are running off the main metering circuit instead of the idle circuit.

Now that you have more initial advance you were able to close the throttle plates a little, probably just not enough.
 
you might be correct because the screw thats on the pass. side near the vaccum on the carb isnt touching anything
 
I say run the 160. I didn't use a t/stat in my car, just cut out the center of an old t/stat for a restrictor so the coolant didn't circulate to fast.
 
well i have a highstall, 4.10 gears a under drive crank pulley with a viscous fan, and Ur sure I should run a 160? a 180 got to 200 on me before
 
You live in Cali right? SoCal? I live in FL, it's hot in both places. I personally wouldn't run any stat, just the restrictor.

A t/stat is just to get an engine up to temp quicker, especially in colder climates so emissions will be lower (or in years past) to get the choke off sooner and get cabin heat quicker.
 
Higher octane gas might help. What grade are you running? Dump a can of 104 octane boost in it and see what happens.

Back in the day I dumped a cup of water (little at a time) while running mine at about 1200 RPM, all sort of black **** blew out the pipes. Definently cleaned out the carbon.
 
running 91 now, next time im going to run 14g of 91 and 2g of 100
 
Run on or Dieseling only has one cause. There is enough fuel and air getting in to keep it running. Lowering the idle or installing an idle solenoid that shuts the throttle plates when you shut the engine off (if you can't idle it low enough because of cam etc ) so there isn't enough fuel and air is the ONLY cure. Timing can raise the idle, a vacuum leak again can raise the idle. Carbon or sharp edges in the combustion chamber supply the ignition. But the bottom line is if it doesn't get enough fuel and air it can't diesel.
 
well is that alot of fuel pressure? 8-9psi on the vacc gauge and 10 on the gauge on the fuel line
 
beastie340 said:
Run on or Dieseling only has one cause. There is enough fuel and air getting in to keep it running. Lowering the idle or installing an idle solenoid that shuts the throttle plates when you shut the engine off (if you can't idle it low enough because of cam etc ) so there isn't enough fuel and air is the ONLY cure. Timing can raise the idle, a vacuum leak again can raise the idle. Carbon or sharp edges in the combustion chamber supply the ignition. But the bottom line is if it doesn't get enough fuel and air it can't diesel.
Click to expand...


If the carbon or sharp edges in the combustion chamber are supplying the ignition then the chamber is too hot. Plain and simple.
 
also I have too much fuel pressure, so im going to put in a regulator and check the power valve and jets
 
got the psi down but now i have spark knock, That I couldent hear before possibly because I was getting alot of gas in there at around 10psi...So Im going to re do the timming
 
Couple of things:

First a standard power valve of 6.5 is too much for 10InHg vacuum. My car
pulls 10-25 and it was too much for mine. Same exact carb you have. I changed
mine to a 5.5 and it made a big difference. Get those secondary plates cracked
open so you can get the transfer slots closed up. Do this before drilling any
plates open. You shouldn't be knocking with your timing limited to 34-35 and
running 93 octane. Are you sure it's ping and not valve train clatter? The
other things to check on timing are when are you at full in for mechanical
on rpm and I can't remember if you are running vac advance or not, but if
you are, check when that comes in and back it off if you can or try running
without it and see if that helps. I have been playing with that carb for a few
weeks now using a wideband af gauge and they run best a little fat period.
A leaner mixture takes long to burn and make power than a fatter mixture, that is why you can have vacuum advance pull your timing to 45+ btdc and
no knock while you are cruising under no load. A richer mixture burns faster so
you need less timing for optimum burn. If it is knock, you might get rid of it
by running a little richer and limit your full in advance to 32-34.

Sorry, might have repeated myself and babbled a bit but I'm at work and
keep getting interrupted...
 
I just put in colder plugs...yesterday but havent started it.. yes its a spark knock because my rockers sound like a sewing machine and this isnt that sound. I dont know what PV is in it yet.. When I get the timming down and re adjust the floats. Im going to go through the carb replacing things that need so. IT wasnt pinging before because it had 10psi of fuel pressure and was fluding but now with 7psi and 34-35 timming it is, so im going to lower timming to 32-34 and hope all goes well PS its 91 octane
 
Get rid of the power valve altogether and go up 8-10 jet sizes on the main jets before you touch the timing. Any car with a decent cam in it doesn't need the power valve, the screwed up vacuum signal from the cam is only screwing up the power valve operation. Your driveability will improve too. Seriously. And by all means crack those secondaries open!!
 
so get 2 block off valves? and go to 81s in the front? Is this to get rid of the ping or what? I want the ping gone first
 
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