car still diseling run on prob

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Yeah, I don`t know how those guys get away with that, my Barracuda is 10.8-1 and with 93 octane and 38* total timing I get both detonation and dieseling. I`ve always had to run a mixture of Cam2 with my gas to keep from spark knocking. I could probably get away with less timing but the car likes it, so I have to go with what the car says. Lol!
 
I know the 440-6 pack cars used a solenoid on the throttle lever to close the plates when shutting off the engine. It seems like there was a 340 that had the solenoid too. You might try finding one of those if nothing else works.
 
I have to agree with longgone sounds like you need more octane. If you are running hot and dieseling why go to a hotter thermostat?
 
waggin said running the 195 thermostat will hold the water i the radiator longer and allow it to keep cooler
 
dang i sure need to get a video camera thingie,I have a 73 340 marine engine in my duster 10.5 to 1 comp crane fireball cam and none of these problems,I set the timing to the fuel I use(by ear)87 octane....and check with timing light with dial (snap on)32 degrees total.14 initial it idles at 1200 and has no problem startin or shutting off when hot...with holley 750...with edelbrock 750...hard to restart hot and ping's if you get on it but no run on problem...burnt noticed the boosters dumping gas at idle so we recomended replacing the o rings on the needle and seat assembly,that should take care of the boosters at idle problem and maybe the extra gas dumped by that problem is causing it?maybe the distributor is a toothe off?any help appreciated
 
I would not use Autolite plugs.Mother Mopar used Champions so thats what I have always used and I have never had any plug problems.I used Autolites once a few years back in a 440.The Autolites worked fine for a few hundred miles after a while it became hard to start when the engine was warm.I pulled the Autolites and put in Champions and never had any hard to start issues again.
Jim
 
a thermostat is designed to open at a certain temperature,holding the water in the radiator till the thermostat reaches that temperature..thus allowing the water to be cooled in the radiator.he may need a larger radiator but switching to a cooler thermostat will definately make the engine run hotter,I run a 195 in my duster 340 and 200 is the hottest I have ever seen it in the middle of the day idleing in traffic in the middle of orlando and it was like 90's that day and I don't run a shroud,it runs a constant 190 degrees unless parked in traffic,I run the autolite plugs in everything.
waggin said running the 195 thermostat will hold the water i the radiator longer and allow it to keep cooler
 
I think I hear some pinging, but it has roller rockers so I cant tell...
 
Just because guy X gets away with running low octane with high compression don't mean you can. If your engine is built EXACTLY like his is you might be lucky enough to run it. Heck my 93 dakota with a 318, magnum heads and 9 to 1 compression had to have 93 octane gas so it didn't spark knock. Also you need to be running a 180 thermostat since your in a hot climate. A 195 thermostat will not open until the engine reaches 195 degrees and if the cool water cools the engine down to less than 195 it'll close again until the engine gets to 195. Put a 180 in it and it should run some cooler which can't hurt.
 
a thermostat is designed to open at a certain temperature,holding the water in the radiator till the thermostat reaches that temperature..thus allowing the water to be cooled in the radiator.he may need a larger radiator but switching to a cooler thermostat will definately make the engine run hotter,I run a 195 in my duster 340 and 200 is the hottest I have ever seen it in the middle of the day idleing in traffic in the middle of orlando and it was like 90's that day and I don't run a shroud,it runs a constant 190 degrees unless parked in traffic,I run the autolite plugs in everything.

How could running a lower temp thermostat possibly make an engine run hotter??? That don't make any sense at all. Hold the water in the radiator to cool it?? So that means your keeping the water in the engine good and hot, right?? Then cool water finally hits the engine when that 195 degree thermostat opens and the temp spikes are all over the place. I run a 180 thermostat in my 360 and even with 4:10 gears it never gets over 185 degrees. That's with a stock radiator in the middle of August which can be 100 degrees here.

BTW: I worked for Hyster forklifts for 11 yrs. and one big problem we saw alot was keeping lifts cool in hot factories. We always found running a 180 thermostat helped at least some.
 
well i have 4.10 gears and a underdrive crank pulley...so should running a 180 stat with the 2 holes in it help?
 
What carb are you running ?
Holley, Edelbrock ?
Running a spacer ?

Im in Cali. Run nothing but a 180 stat. Milodon to be exact.
 
What is your timing set at? I personally would run 91 octane, a 180 stat, and by looking at the heat range on those plugs I would go a step cooler. I run NGK's but anything a step cooler should be ok. I think its a combination of things, not just one specific thing. for sure at least run the higher octane and adjust the timing then reset your idle screw as the plates are probably too far open.
 
Sure. job hunting has been eating up most of my days lately but next time I'm free I will let you know. keep us posted on any changes or progress you make.
 
so i put 6 gallons of 91 shell in today and it felt like it ran a little better, but the thermostat keeps temp around 190-200 kinda dont like that, so Im going to throw that 180 with the 2 holes back in. Next thing is to mess with the timming when my friend gets a chance to come down
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I would get the timing dialed in before you change the termostat.It may run cooler once the timing is right. Jim
 
My first thought is that is a lot of compression for iron heads and low octane fuel, You will not be able to run an optimum advance with that fuel without detonation. Don't be fooled, detonation (spark knock, preignition) is dangerous to your engine and can even occur if you can't hear it. It's the equivallent of taking a hammer and beating on your piston tops.

Magnums are fast burn heads and don't need a lot of advance, on the order of 32 to 35 degrees total.

I don't know what those plugs are equivallent to but you should be running something on the order of a N7Y or C63C Champion. You need higher octane fuel. At least 91-93

Cylinder temperature and pressure are controlled by many factors including the cooling system and camshaft timing, duration and overlap, spark plug heat range, compression ratio and timing curve.

My advise would be to first check your carb butterfly opening at idle speed. Remove the carb and check to see if the butterflies are past the transfer slots in throttle plate. You are probably opening the butterflies to far to keep it running and now the carb isn't running off the idle circuit, instead it's running off the primary circuit. This is the reason you have trouble adjusting the mixture screws and have fuel dripping from the boosters.

You'll need to drill the primary butterflies with a .125 drill bit. If that doesn't get them closed enough then drill the secondaries. If it's still not enough drill the primaries larger, to about .135 and repeat until you have no more than
.040 throttle opening at idle speed. Adjust your mixture screws each time. It's also possible you'll need to decrease the size of the idle air bleeds. This will fatten up the idle circuit to be compatible with the increased air flow. Measure your idle air bleeds before you start (these are the small brass jets at the outer edges of the air horn) most likely they are .120 or .080. Go down to about .070 if they are .120 or .040 if they are already .080. Do this only if you can't get the mixture fat enough. And do this only on the primaries first since your carb doesn't have mixture screws for the secondaries. If you have to do the secondaries don't go too small, but you can always open them back up.

Run a 160 stat, the 195's were designed to keep the cylinder head combustion chamber temps up for emissions in newer vehicles. You don't want that, you want them cooler. You may also want to consider an auxillary electric fan in front of the radiator for idling in heavy traffic in hot weather.

These suggestions should cure your problem but ultimately you may need to mix a little race gas with the 91 octane to keep it totally safe and out of detonation under any circumstance.

Let us know.
 
well they sell 100 down the street and what i was going to do is run 14g of 91 then 2g of 100 and use it like a octane booster but really? 160 stat? i need more people to help with the stat 160 or 180 with the 2 holes?
 
so Hkeller came over and helped me!! thank you and i have 18-19 initial with 34-35 total now and seems like no run on, I think he said i had 7 =/ initial when first fired up, so we will see
 
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