Carb questions '75 D200 360 Holley 2 barrel

[Rick S]

I am new to Mopar, I am trying to get my son's '75 D200 running it has a 360 and a Holley 2 barrel carb #R67651A. I think this is a Holley 2210, can anyone verify that?

My son's friend tried to adjust the carb and its all messed up, right now it will barely start and runs terrible when it does. I think it has a divorced choke (electric). It wont idle and the only way to keep it running is to hold a very high RPM. I am trying to verify if the choke is working, is the proper procedure with a cold engine to step on the gas pedal all the way once to set the choke? When set it should be on the 2nd step where the fast idle speed screw is and the choke plate almost closed with a small gap?

Thanks

 

[greymouser7]

@RustyRatRod this is the same as that two barrel I gave you from my old flat bed.

Rusty probably knows.

 

[nm9stheham]

I am trying to verify if the choke is working, is the proper procedure with a cold engine to step on the gas pedal all the way once to set the choke?

Yes, that is the way to the choke if it is cold.

When set it should be on the 2nd step where the fast idle speed screw is and the choke plate almost closed with a small gap?

If the outside temp is cold enough, yes. But this time of year, it may not close that far since you are not in a particularly cold area.

Another excellent resource in ID'ing carbs is slantsixdan; he tends to hang out on the Slant 6 subforum.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Those carburetors are nothing but a hot mess.

That said, adjust the choke when it is dead cold so the choke plate just barely closes.....maybe even leave a smidgen of a gap. Once the choke is set correctly, get a vacuum gauge and adjust the air screws.......IF you can get to them so that the highest vacuum reading on the gauge is achieved. This should be done in DRIVE, with the parking brake set tightly and the drive wheels blocked very well.

Good luck.

 

[Sterling]

Been awhile since I worked on one, think I have a couple laying around yet. Choke should snap shut cold when the throttle is pressed and released. Should be a vacuum pull off to open the choke slightly after it started . There was a bridge kit installed on the top of the carburetor, people were tightening the air cleaner too tight and warping the top of the carburetor. Which would cause running problems

 

[Rick S]

Been awhile since I worked on one, think I have a couple laying around yet. Choke should snap shut cold when the throttle is pressed and released. Should be a vacuum pull off to open the choke slightly after it started . There was a bridge kit installed on the top of the carburetor, people were tightening the air cleaner too tight and warping the top of the carburetor. Which would cause running problems

 

[Rick S]

Thanks for the tips, I did make some progress. The fast idle adjustment was way off, when I figured it out and adjusted it correctly the choke snaps shut (when cold) when the throttle is pressed and released just like Sterling said. I bought a vac gauge today and will fine tune it after I check the timing. I have seen a few different specs for timing, is 12-14 BTDC what you all would recommend?

 

[nm9stheham]

That sounds like a good starting point.

As the engine warms up, watch the choke open up. You may need to blip the throttle a bit to make it close. If the outside temps are near 60, then it ought to come off pretty fast, like in 1-2 minutes. If it takes longer, or the engine starts to sputter after 30 seconds, then blip the throttle, see if the choke opens up, and adjust as necessary. You may have to adjust the choke setting again when it gets cold.