carb suggestions

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Black Duster

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Hello everyone, I just finished swapping a set of 302 heads and a 268 comp cam on to my stock 318. I am running 340 drivers and 98 jeep pass side exhaust, edelbrock performer manifold and a 6oo holley vac secondary carb. My question is has anyone had to tune the carb after a swap like this? Is it worth the time on this carb or should i swap to another carb. I have not really driven the car yet, only broke the cam in, but the motor seems to have a flat spot when i give it gas (in and out of the driveway). Thanks in advance for the help
 
If course you need to readjust the carburetor. Why in the world would you think you would not?
 
LOl @'Frankie

Black Duster; your post is a echo of a standard joke around here. Not making fun of you just so you know. But it is amazing to read what you wrote for two reasons.

1. Why would you spend $200+ on a new carb when the tuning kit is less than half or more than another carb?

2. Throwing money (and bags of it) at a problem doesn't solve it. (99% of the time)

What you need to do is;

Purchase a tuning kit for the carb. Summit ravings web site has a suggested parts colicky when your looking at your carb.

Learn how to tune the carb. You can download the instruction manual off of Summits web site or Edelbrocks web site. It is easy to work on. In addition to the tuning kit I suggest a 1-2 wrench, timing light, white out to mark the damper, 8 spark plugs, and some hand tools to open up the carb. The screws holding the carb down are the T series drivers in which a set of them would be a good purchase rather than just in singles.
Also a needle nose plier (small) to grip and remove the C clips and a magnetic tray to hold the small parts.

You can tune it. Take your time. Read up and have at it. If you have a freind that has some Experiance in tuning carbs, ask for there help and feed him lunch.
Once you see how it is done, you laugh.
 
Set the timing first, adjust the carb later.
Go to Holley's website, they have excellent videos on how to adjust the carb.
 
Carb is fine , probably need to change the spring on the vacuum secondaries, I had to do that on mine , and make a few other adjustments . It's a good carb for your car .
 
rumblefish360 said:
Learn how to tune the carb. You can download the instruction manual off of Summits web site or Edelbrocks web site.

Rumble,he's running a Holley.
That's the problem. If he was running an Ede 600,he could bolt it on,turn the a/f screws out about 1 1/2 turns and :burnout: down the street. :D
Click to expand...
 
Johnny Dart said:
rumblefish360 said:
Learn how to tune the carb. You can download the instruction manual off of Summits web site or Edelbrocks web site.

Rumble,he's running a Holley.
That's the problem. If he was running an Ede 600,he could bolt it on,turn the a/f screws out about 1 1/2 turns and :burnout: down the street. :D
Click to expand...

rumblefish360 said:
LOl @'Frankie

Black Duster; your post is a echo of a standard joke around here. Not making fun of you just so you know. But it is amazing to read what you wrote for two reasons.

1. Why would you spend $200+ on a new carb when the tuning kit is less than half or more than another carb?

2. Throwing money (and bags of it) at a problem doesn't solve it. (99% of the time)

What you need to do is;

Purchase a tuning kit for the carb. Summit ravings web site has a suggested parts colicky when your looking at your carb.

Learn how to tune the carb. You can download the instruction manual off of Summits web site or Edelbrocks web site. It is easy to work on. In addition to the tuning kit I suggest a 1-2 wrench, timing light, white out to mark the damper, 8 spark plugs, and some hand tools to open up the carb. The screws holding the carb down are the T series drivers in which a set of them would be a good purchase rather than just in singles.
Also a needle nose plier (small) to grip and remove the C clips and a magnetic tray to hold the small parts.

You can tune it. Take your time. Read up and have at it. If you have a freind that has some Experiance in tuning carbs, ask for there help and feed him lunch.
Once you see how it is done, you laugh.
Click to expand...

ROFLMAO .. you need to buy a tune-up kit, and research on the site, and all the stuff to get an Eddy to work,

where-as the Holley may only need a jet and secondary spring change,.. lol

OP, stick with the holley, it'll work fine with few adjustments,,
Click to expand...
 
inertia said:
Johnny Dart said:
ROFLMAO .. you need to buy a tune-up kit, and research on the site, and all the stuff to get an Eddy to work,

where-as the Holley may only need a jet and secondary spring change,.. lol

OP, stick with the holley, it'll work fine with few adjustments,,
Click to expand...

Read the original post. He has a flat spot when he gives it gas in and out of the driveway.I highly doubt he's into the secondary's yet. :wink:
To me that sounds like a pump shot issue. So you can add some Holley accelerator pump cams to your Holley list.:cheers:
Click to expand...
 
df_zps69909752.jpg
oops missed the in and out of the driveway , but then again he might have a long driveway . I get into second gear on my driveway
 
Edelbrock or Holley, it needs to be tuned! I don't care if you think Holley or Edelbrock is the shot and all of your carbs bolted on and ran like a raped ape with his *** on fire and a trigger running after him drooling at BBQ ape for his first dinner I a week.

A carb needs to be tuned and adjusted.

If it ran perfect OOTB, you could have own lotto last night.
If you think it can't run better, bring it on! School will be in session.
 
Johnny Dart said:
inertia said:
Read the original post. He has a flat spot when he gives it gas in and out of the driveway.I highly doubt he's into the secondary's yet. :wink:
To me that sounds like a pump shot issue. So you can add some Holley accelerator pump cams to your Holley list.:cheers:
Click to expand...
sounds like pump shot issue to me as well
Click to expand...
 
Man the best 200 ish bucks ive ever spent was on a wide band 02 gauge for best carb tunning. Its worth every penny & ran soooooo much harder with less fuel ta boot in my old 340. Only way to do it!!!
 
Thanks for the interesting feedback. Timing is set at 12 BTDC, i have removed the heavy spring from the dizzy, and it gives me 36 degrees at 2000 rpms. I put a trick kit in this carb several years ago, replacing the metering plate with a metering block and it worked great on a stock 360 as well as the stock 318. jetting is stock. i was thinking pump shot, but did not think i would need to re-jet because it is still a sub 300 hp engine. Is it better to change pump cams or try a bigger squirter?
 
Make sure the pump arm is correctly adjusted. If so, I'd try one size nozzle first. If your 600 has a #25, I'd try a #28 to see what kind of result you get. With that combo, you shouldn't need any more then that.

Please hold off on playing with pump cams at this point. I've done multiple dozens of different setups, and the last thing to deal with is a pump cam. Unless your running a huge plenum manifold, and/or spacer, a cam that requires a idle speed in the 1500 range, or a huge stall speed at launch, the as delivered pump is fine. Meaning if it's a street setup vs a track setup...leave the pump cam alone for the street.

P.S. What the carb list# off the choke horn?
 
Thank you. It may be awhile before i can drive it with winter weather here. I will get some plugs and check the pump nozzle size then start tuning with jets if necessary. Thanks again for everyones input
 
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