I am looking around for a new carb for my Duster with a 440
What's wrong with that one that's on there?
I need to replace the carb, soon!!
I want to get a 750 cfm double feed/pumper, manual choke
Why? Again. What's wrong with the one that's on there now?
Other than the choke tower cut off, that could be be what is on there now.
Have you run the engine?
If that carb has its original metering blocks, the stampings on the top edges
may indicate the List number.
Since it has a secondary accelerator pump, its a 'double pumper'.
I would like to stick with a dual fed carb and redo the fuel plumbing that's on the carb currently
Changing that plumbing is a great idea. Either use real AN-hoses, preferably pre-made kit, or hard lines with short sections of rubber hose connecting the fuel filter. Make sure the filter's outlet is higher than the inlet - just like Chrysler told their techs back in 1963. Can problably use factory line (or repop) from the pump to the filter.
The throttle return spring looks overextended. maybe not at idle but at full throttle. Get a longer one or pair.
I will be installing an Edelbrock 1723 mechanical pump soon
OK. Looks like there's a good reason based on the way the feed hose is routed in the photo.
What CFM should I look for and what features are important.
Depends on how use etc. The 'rating' is most important for high rpm, top gear.
I have a Weiand intake, full MSD ignition and headers.......auto 727 trans
I was told by the P.O. that the motor has a small cam, but unsure what
Should I go bigger than a 750?
It will just be a driver to take to local shows and to have some fun with
If you're just driving around town, parades and car shows, then IMO the most important features will be its ability to meter at low throttle and handle heat.
I have a Wieand 7512 manifold, if that matters
Notice that even with that hopped up engine, the manifolds producing the max torque at the lowest rpms were the stock and the Eddy RPM.
Do not get the air gap for what you're doing. Especially when running without a choke.
4150 is a style of carb, not the model #. Usually model # is stamped on the metering block just behind the float bowl.
That's true in plain English.
Technically not so by Holley's terminology.
In Holley speak, 4150 is a model.
The engineering "List number" stamped on the choke tower or elsewhere is the specific version of the model.
So in Holleyspeak the List 3310 that RRR offered is a model 4160 if it has a secondary metering plate, or 4150 if it has a secondary metering block.
I was told I need either a manual or electric choke, had to run one......no?
Because with the manifolds being discussed, you can't run the factory all mechanical chokes.
Since we know nothing about the engine, its hard to guess whether any choke will be helpful in your situation.
I like the idea of a choke, but on a hot rodded engine they can be very difficult to make work as well as a factory choke on a factory setup.
Get the thing running. Buy or barrow a tachometer and vacuum gage, and see what the engine is doing at idle.
