I went from a 1406 Edelbrock that I ran on my 360 Dart to a 1906 Edelbrock AVS2 650. Very pleased with the difference. Throttle response is and cruise throttle response is much crisper. This would get my vote.
Carburetor choice
- Thread starter texas360
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thesiren74
Well-Known Member
That is the only downfall with that carb.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
Lol whateverGet yourself a Holley. Get some power valves, jets, fuel bowl gaskets, accelerator pump cams, secondary springs, sure I'm forgetting a couple things, and be ready to futz with the thing more than a British motorcycle.
Or, get an Ede 650 AVS2
Turn the A/F screws out 1.5 turns, and burn rubber all the way down the street.
So far I think all carb choices are good choices with there pro’s & con’s no matter what brand.
HOWEVER….
Texas360 did ask about what Holley.
Not your opinion or choice other than Holley.
Though, like I said, I don’t think anyone suggested a bad choice when it wasn’t a Holley.
HOWEVER….
Texas360 did ask about what Holley.
Not your opinion or choice other than Holley.
Though, like I said, I don’t think anyone suggested a bad choice when it wasn’t a Holley.
63CC heads
cam 213/226 @50 .480/.516 lift
2600 stall
73 charger 28" tire
has a stumble from take off, probably needs accelerator pump... it idles good, it runs good.. I have never ran a Holley, but lot of people swear they are better, easier to tune and create more power..
i currently run an Edelbrock 1405 on a yr old rebuild... seems to stop pulling around 5800 and that may be because of cam choice or intake, but thought maybe it was carb being small
i have not ran a compression test yet
these are prone to leaking when thermoresin body warps from heat.
if i buy from a builder how will i ever learn myself..
Sometimes getting rid of the stumble on the AFB is a PIA. Between the different accelerator pumps and the position of the rod that goes into the arm for the pump shot, you should be able to get it. What a lot of people miss is the readjustment of the height on the plungers side that needs to be re adjusted.
Don’t let anyone tell you that the rod should be or has to be in the hole closest to the carb. While that delivers the most fuel into the pump shot possible, it can also be to much.
The carb size won’t add rpm to the engine. If the power stops pulling at your 5800 rpm, it is the cam that is running out of steam or valve float. Your cam is small and perfect for a driver. One other thing, your tires are large in diameter for getting off the line quick and easy.
Don’t let anyone tell you that the rod should be or has to be in the hole closest to the carb. While that delivers the most fuel into the pump shot possible, it can also be to much.
The carb size won’t add rpm to the engine. If the power stops pulling at your 5800 rpm, it is the cam that is running out of steam or valve float. Your cam is small and perfect for a driver. One other thing, your tires are large in diameter for getting off the line quick and easy.
its just a cruiser.. i dont race it, but i guess im trying to live the 440 dream on a small block dime... i might try to find the Holley 3310 used and just tinker with it and see what i can figure out because i really do honestly love the edelbrock.... one thing i have never had is a brand new carb... always had edelbrock 600 and rebuilt them..
Prone?
The biggest mistake I see when a TQ is used (rarely seen these days) is the owner ignores the amount of heat the carb will see. This is where the TQ takes a beating and the warping becomes a possible problem.
The OE style gasket is very thick and should be used anytime a TQ gets put into action. Any trick possible that can be used should be seriously thought about when a TQ is employed.
i had always heard people and read that the TQ bodies warp, crack and leak bad no matter what gasket and thats why people always chunk them in trash.. i have a TQ on the shelf that came off a 77 360 truck engine. one reason i have never messed with it
j par
Well-hung Member
There's still quite a few cheap alternatives to getting the stumble out of the carburetor you have. I think maybe mentioned was the accelerator pump. There's different springs for them and different adjustments on the arm. Just adjusting the arm is extremely simple and right out front. Maybe trying some different step Springs or even metering rods. Also you can put larger or smaller squirters for more of a squirt at tip in to get the bog out or stumble..
What do your plugs look like? If you want to buy something maybe an a/f gage they're not that expensive and pretty easy to hook up..
What do your plugs look like? If you want to buy something maybe an a/f gage they're not that expensive and pretty easy to hook up..
The bodies can and do warp. Is it a given fact that they will? Not from where I stand, I say no. Heat is there enemy. I have had only one warp and crack on me. JB weld fixed it and was used for another couple of years.
Im not sure what your exact TQ has on it as far as vacuum ports go but I normally try and find the ones with the least amount of ports and ones without anything on the front top of the carb. The less emissions ports on it the better.
448Scamp
Running Free
If that’s the case, buy something that is already set up to learn on, not some old, clapped out, warped 3310. You can get a ProForm carb for not much money. That keeps you from drilling and tapping everything,as it’s already done.
why do some holleys have one metering block and some have two?
More tuning and more performance with 2 would be my short answer
The single metering block Holley is a 4160 model that uses a plate for the rear fuel metering rather than the jets found on the 4150 model. It can be converted.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
I bought a 3310 2 1/2 yrs ago off a guy in my town for $150 put a cheap rebuild kit in it and ran excellent! Started getting more into tuning and put the qft metering plate on with removable jets and put a qft adjustable secondary diaphragm my buddy is still useing that carb and runs great.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Excellent combo. I ran a similar combo, but with an rpm Airgap, and a bit more cam/ compression.
With a 2600TC and 3.55s, that thing should be a tire-schredder.
If it is not, it's only because you have not yet figured out how to release the demon!, lol.
Your carb is not too small.
Your car is not that heavy. (mine is 3650 with me in it)
Your starter gear is not too tall. (3.55 x2.45= 8.70)
And your stall, (2600) while being a lil low, is not too low for 3.55s and 28s.
Your cylinder pressure is likely to be over 177 psi, (same as mine), so that will make up the difference.
So I'll tell you what I think is happening, cuz it happens to almost everybody.
I think your Transfer slots have or nearly have , dried up.
That Whiplash (I'm assuming a Flat-Tappet grind), is the 318 grind which is 213/226/109+5. At idle, it presents itself as about one or two sizes bigger as compared to a non-Whiplash type cam. Hughes does not publish their advertised specs, but a lot of their older cams were ground with ramps of about 46* so that would make it ~ 260/272 advertised. Cut on a 109, that offers ~48* of overlap, and in at 104* makes the Ica to be 54*. And the Wallace spits out 177psi at 500ft elevation. Badaboom!
Because you have so much pressure, you will have a ton of low-rpm torque. Buttum I'll take a guess and figure that you put a ton of idle timing into it to smooth it out. Like maybe 20* or more. This allowed you to close the throttles quite far to get the idle-speed down. Am I on the right track?
If you did that, then, you accidentally more or less shut the transfers off..... which creates the almost incurable tip-in stumble.
>The cure for this is real simple, just open up the throttles a couple of turns on the Idle Speed-screw, whatever it takes to get rid of it. Of course two things will happen when you do that; 1) the idle-speed will go up, and 2) the Idle fuel will go rich.
>To cure the fast-Idle, just retard the timing. To about 10/12 degrees with that cam, looking for an in-gear idle-speed of about 650/700.
>To cure the rich low-speed, just close the mixture screw back where they should be, around 2 turns from lightly seated.
> retarding the timing back to normal is gonna introduce two new problems, namely; insufficient Power-Timing AND probably a lazy midrange timing curve. You gotta fix these inside the Distributor.
Alloy heads and hi-compression, like about 32* PowerTiming, maybe 34* But not 36/38 like open-chamber iron heads. To get there from 10/12 Idle-Timing will require a 20* "governor" in the D. If yours is not 20*(marked R10) then you have to either get one, make one, or get/install the FBO limiter-plate.
After this is done, you will need to modify the timing curve by subbing in various advance-weight springs.
After this is done, you can begin tuning your Vcan, to make up the Part-Throttle timing you gave up when I told you to back up the Idle-Timing to 10/12.
As for tuning the carb;
The basics:
First; I'm assuming that I'm correct in that the transfers are slow or dry. If I'm wrong about that then from here on is just for your perusal.
>make sure your PCV is correct, plumbed with the right PCV hose, to the nipple on the FRONT of the carb that exits below the primary throttles. Plumb your V-can to ported spark, usually the passenger side nipple. If you have power-brakes, plumb the line to the plenum, or to the large nipple on the REAR of the carb if it has one. Do NOT plumb it to just one single intake runner. Make sure your cooling system temperature runs stable, and I recommend to run at least 180*. PROVE that there are no intake leaks, especially not into the CrankCase,and that ALL the air that is entering the engine, is doing so thru the proper carb circuits. If you have holes drilled in your primary throttle-blades from a previous install, this combo does not require them, so solder them closed.
Begin by; removing the carb, drain it, lock it on the curb idle screw, flip it upside down, and adjust the transfer slot exposure under the primary throttles to be dead square to a tiny bit taller than wide. After this, DO NOT change this setting unless I tell you to; this is extremely important. If you change it, and don't tell me, I will give you all the wrong answers.
Close the secondaries up tight but not sticking; then flip it back rightside up.
Reset the mixture screws to 2 turns from lightly seated. Be sure the float-level is set right, not lean. And finally, re adjust your accelerator pump to begin spraying a mist to fine droplets, just as soon as you very gently touch the throttle.
Now fit the base gasket and make sure it fits both the carb and the intake, then bolt it all back together. Fill the bowl(s) thru the bowlvent, then
> reset the ignition timing to 10/12; and roadtest it. Just the low rpm /low speed response mind you, and specifically the Tip-in at zero-mph.
Results;
If you still have a stumble/hesitation/bog/etc
you can increase the Idle fuel with the mixture screws to no more than 2.5 turns. If that seems to be working, but still not cured; you can give her more fuel from the Transfers, by increasing the idle speed-screw adjustment, 1/2 turn atta time, but when you do that; first put the mixture screws back to, in the range of 1.5 to 2.5 turns. Do not increase the idle speed-screw adjustment more than about 2 turns. If the stumble is not/has not, disappeared, something else that I haven't thought of yet, is wrong. Recheck your accelerator pump shot.
IMO, this is a well thought out combo, and just needs a lil tuning to make it great.
Last edited:
A ‘73 Charger is not heavy? I guess it could happen.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I didn't say it wasn't heavy; I said;
lol
I don’t use initial timing. My distributor was built by a guy and it don’t have vacuum . I run between 34-36 total
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Well then, can anyone help you?
I know I cannot.
I know I cannot.
Sir, everyone uses initial timing. The initial timing is where the distributor is set when the engine fires and at very low RPM. After a certain RPM, centrifugal force moves on the springs and the counterweights inside the distributor to produce additional timing. You don't have a vacuum advance, so that will not play a part in your timing. The initial timing plus the various timing increases due to centrifugal force will equal the total timing you mentioned of 34-36. There is a lot of performance tuning available through the distributor, so that is another avenue for you to optimize your vehicle.
yet[/QUOTE]
I set it at roughly 10 degrees when I first fired engine then after that I set total at 34 and never checked initial timing again after that.
I set it at roughly 10 degrees when I first fired engine then after that I set total at 34 and never checked initial timing again after that.
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