Carter Single BBS Issues

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I appreciate the help everyone.

BillGrissom said:
There is an adjustment on the thermal spring (rich-lean). The second it fires, and you get intake manifold vacuum, the "choke pull-off" (round dashpot at top) should pop it open slightly so it doesn't die rich. Those often fail. Remove the rubber tube, push in the stem, block the vacuum port w/ your finger and see if the stem stays in. If not, the rubber diaphragm is torn. Don't ever spray carb cleaner around it.
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. And the rubber diaphram is torn... Should this have been replaced with a carb rebuild or is it a seperate part? Anything else I can check now? I have spark plugs/air filter/and pcv valve coming.. Maybe I should start another thread..
 
I would keep everything in the same thread so people can track you progress.
Good luck, the slant is a good engine to learn on.
 
Vsloun said:
And the rubber diaphram is torn
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You'll need a new choke pull-off, then. OCPNW probably has one of those, too. (Also, since the condition and operation of the choke pull-off is a basic check-and-adjust to be done during a rebuild, I don't have a lot of faith in the guy who rebuilt yours)
 
slantsixdan said:
You'll need a new choke pull-off, then. OCPNW probably has one of those, too. (Also, since the condition and operation of the choke pull-off is a basic check-and-adjust to be done during a rebuild, I don't have a lot of faith in the guy who rebuilt yours)
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I'll add it to the list.. FWIW I called OCPNW today and he was out of the office and said he'd call me back. I'll call him again tomorrow with this info.

Sigh... That's what I feared. :wack:
 
The pull-off is not a standard rebuild kit part so not surprise that it was not replaced, but testing it should be. Try to look at is this way; it sounds you are not in bad shape on the carb, just a few things need fixing. In the process, you are learing very valuable things that will help you keep things running in the future.
 
slantsixdan said:
You'll need a new choke pull-off, then. OCPNW probably has one of those, too.
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OCPNW had both parts and they are on their way. :)

Any tips for adjusting the choke thermostat with the thicker base gasket? And replacing the choke pull-off?

I am learning a lot :) my dads buddy has a 440 duster and he gave me a ride in it. Oh man. :violent2:

And another picture just because :)
 

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I posted a link to the choke adjustment article earlier in this thread, as well as links to BBS how-to. Follow those links.
 
slantsixdan said:
There's usually enough room in the choke thermostat housing for the mechanism to move a little further than original, though it usually takes some adjustment, but with the rod bent randomly (not your fault, someone got at it before you had the car) there's not much hope of getting it working right. Keep the thick base gasket, life's better that way, but you'll have to adjust the new choke thermostat.
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So I may be wasting space but my understanding after reading the link is that I should get the choke thermostat and bolt it up and not bend the arm at all. I should connect it and make sure nothing binds and that's it? How do you adjust it other then bending the arm?

Any ideas for a gasket? OCPNW didn't have one.
 
Do not bend the arm. On the underside of the choke thermostat there's a nut that can be loosened to rotate the spring assembly to apply greater or less tension to the pushrod, then tightened to lock the assembly in place. There's a big centre index mark, and smaller marks toward the letters R for richer (more tension) and L for leaner (less tension). The nominal adjustment is 2 notches towards R; if that's not where the unit you receive is set, set it there. Then bolt it onto the manifold and see how it does. If it doesn't push the choke all the way closed when you open the throttle with the engine cold, remove the choke thermostat from the manifold and move it a notch or two closer to R. You should not have to exceed a 4R adjustment. Keep in mind, the choke pull-off link also requires adjustment.
Hustle and get those three books quick as you can!

Carb base gasket, I am completely shocked OCPNW didn't have one for you—they probably do and just can't lay hands on it, that place is enormous. Anyhow, it's still available through ordinary parts supply lines. Walker number G850. If you strike out, send me a PM and I'll see if I have either a loose gasket (possibly) or a carb kit (almost certainly).
 
Correct. Don't bend the arm. Look close at the thermal spring. There is a bolt & nut, with adjustment marks. Go toward "R" to make the choke tighter (rich) or "L" to make looser. I fooled with that for years on my 69 Dart slant, having to tweak it between summer and winter. I didn't know the real problem was that my choke pull-off was bad. You see the pull-offs cheap on ebay occasionally.

Down the road, it you want more sophisticated operation, you can get an electric-thermal choke from a later slant (~1976-1980?), at the junkyard. There were also aftermarket electric chokes. I bought one from J.C. Whitney catalog long ago.
 
The factory electric-assist chokes ('73-up) are best left in the junkyards. They worked poorly when they were new, and they do not improve with age. Also, they can't be adjusted. Also, they don't fit the pre-1973 exhaust manifolds like the one on Vsloun's car. If you have a hankering for an electric choke, get one of the current-production adjustable Electric choke kits.

But the pre-1973 non-electric types, in good repair and proper adjustment, work well.
 
slantsixdan said:
Carb base gasket, I am completely shocked OCPNW didn't have one for you—they probably do and just can't lay hands on it, that place is enormous. Anyhow, it's still available through ordinary parts supply lines. Walker number G850. If you strike out, send me a PM and I'll see if I have either a loose gasket (possibly) or a carb kit (almost certainly).
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Thanks for clearing that up.. the carb adjustment section in the factory manual doesn't talk about that at all. I just didn't want to break it.. again..

They didn't have the choke thermostat gasket.. I have a new carb base gasket that I am going to use.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
There is no choke thermostat gasket. It goes directly on the manifold, metal-to-metal.
(Factory manual: Good. Get the other two books, they'll pay you back in a week, no foolin'!)
 
The Car Talk radio show recently answered a carb question, telling the guy to look at his choke pull-off. Of course, people with 2000+ EFI cars then started asking if their choke pull-off might be the reason for their problems. With EFI, the output is just the electronic fuel injector duty cycle. No more mechanical implementations like "choke" and "accelerator pump", but EFI does require more sensors. With the old stuff, you can see it operate and thus get a better understanding, which also helps in trouble-shooting EFI controls.
 
So I got the parts from OCPNW and I think he sent me the wrong choke pull off.. Any idea how to handle it? The box says 66 and I have a 67...

I did get the old choke thermostat working correctly. I took it off and tried to use the new one but it would hit inside the manifold. I would have to enlarge the holes to get the new one to fit. After working the old one back and forth uninstalled it seemed to work like the new one. After reinstalling it the choke butterfly pulled tight (like its supposed to I believe).
 

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Yep, they sent you the wrong part. That choke pull-off is for a Holley 1920, not a Carter BBS. They probably sent a '62-'65 choke thermostat which is almost but not quite the same as the '66-'69 item you need (Carter BBS or Holley 1920 thermostat doesn't matter; they're fit/function interchangeable, but you do have to have the right pull-off for the carburetor at hand.)
 
slantsixdan said:
Yep, they sent you the wrong part. That choke pull-off is for a Holley 1920, not a Carter BBS. They probably sent a '62-'65 choke thermostat which is almost but not quite the same as the '66-'69 item you need (Carter BBS or Holley 1920 thermostat doesn't matter; they're fit/function interchangeable, but you do have to have the right pull-off for the carburetor at hand.)
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Ok good to know.. Would a '62-'65 choke thermostat be worth keeping? Or just try to exchange it all at this point?
 
It's unlikely you'll ever be swapping a '62-'65 exhaust manifold on -- much more likely you'd be swapping a '73-up type exhaust manifold, since that's the most commonly available type, and it takes yet a different kind of choke thermostat. So I'd exchange both parts for the correct ones.
 
I PM'd you, Vsloun. I might be able to use the'62-'65 choke spring (as a spare) unless you prefer to return it.
 
BillGrissom said:
The Car Talk radio show recently answered a carb question, telling the guy to look at his choke pull-off.
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I listen to those guys every week! Too bad Tom passed away last Fall and they have not produced a new show for over 2 years.
You know he had a 64 Dart convertible that they talked about all the time.
 
KosmicKuda said:
I listen to those guys every week!
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I don't. They were a couple of buffoons. The advice they gave was usually stupid and often just plain wrong, and they never missed an opportunity to yuk it up at their own dumb jokes.

One of them had a '63 Dart until it got totalled.
 
slantsixdan said:
I don't. They were a couple of buffoons. The advice they gave was usually stupid and often just plain wrong, and they never missed an opportunity to yuk it up at their own dumb jokes.
.
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Yeah, I didn't agree with everything they said either but it's called entertainment. Their fan base was from the NPR world so that says a lot.
The world is not composed of just mechanical things.
 
There's plenty of thoughtful, intelligent, funny, informative, and otherwise good content on NPR. I never counted Car Talk on that list.
 
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