Cast versus Forged?

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Inspector71

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Honest, I hit search before posting this question as I figured its been asked many times. Call me lame but I didn't find it. Okay, it will be a street driven only 68 Barracuda 360 with some minor mods (auto tranny) and I'm hoping to be in the 300 to 350 hp range. With that in mind, would the extra cost of a forged crank over cast be worth it? Thanks. You folks are building my future engine one post at a time.
 
Honest, I hit search before posting this question as I figured its been asked many times. Call me lame but I didn't find it. Okay, it will be a street driven only 68 Barracuda 360 with some minor mods (auto tranny) and I'm hoping to be in the 300 to 350 hp range. With that in mind, would the extra cost of a forged crank over cast be worth it? Thanks. You folks are building my future engine one post at a time.
For what your looking to do a cast crank will last almost forever.
 
a stock 360 crank wil handle 300-360 hp in its sleep...i spun one for 2 yrs to 7500 rpm for two years with heavy trw pistons and stock rods...the stock rod broke....

the rotating assembly was so heavy it has a total of 10 slugs of mallory metal in it...tried using it again, and with light pistons and rods the machine shop said they could would have to take 900 grams out of the counterweights asked if I had another crank......LOL
 
Honest, I hit search before posting this question as I figured its been asked many times. Call me lame but I didn't find it. Okay, it will be a street driven only 68 Barracuda 360 with some minor mods (auto tranny) and I'm hoping to be in the 300 to 350 hp range. With that in mind, would the extra cost of a forged crank over cast be worth it? Thanks. You folks are building my future engine one post at a time.
Cast will last , should be fine
 
In the past two days, FABO members have schooled me on the proper intake and carb for my planned 360 build, saving me dollars and headaches in the process, and now you have saved me a huge chunk of change (based on crank prices through Summit Racing) by suggesting cast. I told the Administrator that when this project is done, I will definitely owe FABO credit for the build and I'm serious. When this finally gets going and done, the car show sign will be all about FABO. Anyway, is there any cast crank you would suggest? Is the Mopar brand one offered by Summit okay? Again, a HUGE thanks
 
I would think for that power level a factory cast crank and rods properly balanced would serve you just fine, and last a good while unless it will see higher rpm's alot. Some people spin 6500 with their cast stock cranks no sweat. A good balance job will cost less than a crank which should be balanced again once all your parts are added. I dont see any real gains switching to say an eagle cast steel crank unless you got the esp armor finish put on for extra cost and even then the power gain would only be a few (less than 10hp probably) so id just stick with factory parts other than maybe pistons being upgraded to one that will raise compression a little. Long story short stock is fine unless you just feel the itch to spemd money then you can get an eagle crank for a reasonable price. Also check rockauto for a stock replacement, theirs come with bearings usually pretty cheap.
 
Thanks that makes a lot of sense. Are the products made by Eagle good? Their cast cranks are cheap compared to others. And for Dodge Freak (I have a Dodge Charger and will eventually acquire a Dart. I once had a 65 a brother in California sold out from under me) anyway, which ones are made in China? I quite buying tools made in Red China not only for political reasons, but they I've had bad luck with them quality wise
 
From what ive heard and seen Eagle tend to be fine for day to day driving but ive personally seen several forged eagle cranks twist apart for race use. IMO
 
do yourself a favor and get a factory cast crank (aka used piece) off craigslist or something. The old school quality cast cranks that came in our small blocks are tough as nails and often times as strong as the new chinese forged units, i wouldn't even waste my money on a new forged unit unless it was from K1, Callies etc..i'm using the stock 71' 360 cast crank in my motor and it will be right at 400rwhp and stock rods too, won't spin it past 6K though....-Dan
 
What ever you decide make sure you have the engine balanced, it is way worth the extra $$. You'll be happy you did....
 
a stock cast crank will do fine..dont spend any money where is it not necessary....if you want to spend money on the bottom end..get lighter rods and pistons....

kb107 pistons are lighter then the stock pistons..
scat i beam rods are alot lighter then stock rods.....

combine those and there is alot less stress on the crank...
 
If you don't have a crank now, skip buying any of the 3.58 cast pieces that are new and buy a scat 4" cast crank along with some KB pistons and build a stroker... That's what I'd do if I didn't have anything to start with.
 
If you don't have a crank now, skip buying any of the 3.58 cast pieces that are new and buy a scat 4" cast crank along with some KB pistons and build a stroker... That's what I'd do if I didn't have anything to start with.
Theres some good advice right there
 
If you don't have a crank now, skip buying any of the 3.58 cast pieces that are new and buy a scat 4" cast crank along with some KB pistons and build a stroker... That's what I'd do if I didn't have anything to start with.

Theres some good advice right there
I concur. :D
If you have to spend money , a stroker is the obvious choice.
But if you just want a 3.58 , find a used factory piece for next to nothing.
Balancing should be mandatory.
 
I believe the 360 engine I'm considering has a factory crank. I take it then there would be no problem simply using the factory one as long as it checks out okay. Does anyone know where the Mopar cranks are made? Again, thanks for the great advice as all of this will save me a lot of money and help get this project started.
 
I concur. :D
If you have to spend money , a stroker is the obvious choice.
But if you just want a 3.58 , find a used factory piece for next to nothing.
Balancing should be mandatory.

Exactly.

If your engine/block has a crank in it stop looking for a new one... Have the current one checked out and ground. As long as it hasn't spun a main bearing, it's likely OK. A stock mopar crank from a 360 was likely made in north america.
 
More good advice. Without having to buy a crank, I can spend the money toward the balancing and so forth. This has been a really big help.
 
The best thing you could do is wait until the engine is torn down and see what you've got. I don't know if you have a machine shop figured out or not but the guys at Automotive Machine and Performance up in Lawrence will get you going down the right road. They can get it checked over and then help you decide what you need to get the engine you want. These guys have been in the business a long time and know the Mopar stuff like no other.
 
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