Caster setting

[Ceedawg]

I'm hoping I can get those kind of numbers!!

Not with stock parts but it’s a drag car only not sure how it would work going around corners

 

[Inertia]

Not with stock parts but it’s a drag car only not sure how it would work going around corners

The more caster = steering harder to turn, particularly at slow speeds, parking lots etc .
You are actually lifting one side of car with the steering wheel, - more caster, more lift.

 

[Ceedawg]

The more caster = steering harder to turn, particularly at slow speeds, parking lots etc .
You are actually lifting one side of car with the steering wheel, - more caster, more lift.

If a street car I would have it a 0 or +1 max

 

[Inertia]

If a street car I would have it a 0 or +1 max

People complained about heavy steering if I went over +2.5 ish with manual steering daily driver .
5+ just isn't nec in a non track/race car, jmo.

My roundy-round cars have lots more right caster ( 10ish) cuz they turn left .

 

[Ceedawg]

Agree I’ve seen some weird setups on circle cars but they work!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I just caint say this enough. Every SINGLE bit of this is in the Mopar Performance Suspension manual. Find a copy and read it.

 

[Ceedawg]

I have the original one that came out in 74. Read every bit of it, it’s just radii of circles

 

[Demonx2]

I just caint say this enough. Every SINGLE bit of this is in the Mopar Performance Suspension manual. Find a copy and read it.

Yep - see my post #19. I think you're one of the reasons I got it!!

 

[Demonx2]

If a street car I would have it a 0 or +1 max

I drive mine on both the track and the street. So I'll start with something in the +2-ish range I'm thinking. Sure something more than the 0 to -1/2 I have now!

@Dave999
My car does not squat - it lifts front and rear about 4". This is a CalTrac rear suspension car.

Couldn't find a good sideshot pic of it but this shows the front pretty well (rears are my smaller street tires, not the slicks I run at the track). You can see the top of the front tire is close to the bottom of the fender opening.

Here it is a bit after the hit. The body just lifts almost straight up.

 

[Ceedawg]

I drive mine on both the track and the street. So I'll start with something in the +2-ish range I'm thinking. Sure something more than the 0 to -1/2 I have now!

@Dave999
My car does not squat - it lifts front and rear about 4". This is a CalTrac rear suspension car.

Couldn't find a good sideshot pic of it but this shows the front pretty well (rears are my smaller street tires, not the slicks I run at the track). You can see the top of the front tire is close to the bottom of the fender opening.
View attachment 1716058574

Here it is a bit after the hit. The body just lifts almost straight up.
View attachment 1716058572

Might need some stiffer shocks in back to hold the rear down. Of course that’s the way we raced for many years.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yep - see my post #19. I think you're one of the reasons I got it!!

Then now you know exactly what I am talking about!

 

[Ceedawg]

I had to extend the drag like on passenger side to get it all even. No toe out or in thru travel now. A lot of in and out work checking length. Now both tie rod tubes are same length and on same arc.