Centerlink angle , BB Kframe

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shifty

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I swapped a factory big block Kframe in to my 68 Dart
For some reason the left side seems lower by about 1" , the pitman
Appears to be up all the way, I swapped both the idler and pitman with another
Set with the same results, I didn't know if it was normal to be lower on one side
 
Not normal on the stock K. It will cause steering problems.
Is the K bolted up to straight frame rails? Is the steering box properly installed? And the centerlink hung on the studs? And the arms are straight back, parallel to the vehicle centerline? And the chassis is level,from side-to-side? If all are yeses, the steering box will have to be shimmed. And/or the idler arm mount,slotted. It's best to have the engine/tranny installed first, and the headers on. You will want to do this on the alignment rack, with the car at ride height, and rake. Some of these changes will mess with your camber curves and bump-steer.Your alignment guy will need to fix these issues.
 
If everything is installed correctly, the most likely cause is a slightly tweaked idler arm mount. It is possible that it was a factory screwup. K-members were built in a very sloppy manner...
 
B5BD24C1-26BD-4193-93DA-52A895099243.jpg
DE47FFBE-5ABC-4FA3-A08D-6905A2A50631.jpg

Thanks ill look into in a little while
 
I think it's the k-member. I've seen this before and it's probably not a huge issue with the exception of clearance.
 
Lind of hard to tell from your pic, but does the pitman arm stud point in the same direction as the one on the idler arm? 72 and back the studs face up, 73 and forward they face down. Wondering if there's a mix and match going on...(?)
 
Lind of hard to tell from your pic, but does the pitman arm stud point in the same direction as the one on the idler arm? 72 and back the studs face up, 73 and forward they face down. Wondering if there's a mix and match going on...(?)

I had to zoom the pic in. The idler is mounted correctly.
 
Going back to post#2;

-When this condition exists (the different tie-rod pivot-ball heights to the ground plane), each wheel will have it's own toe-in curve. The toe-curve is a plotted line that shows the change in toe that occurs as the wheel travels up and down in its normal range of motion. Theoretically this plotted line would show zero change,thus the toe would remain at whatever you set it at,no matter where the wheel is in it's travel. I reality, the curve can only be minimized over a very narrow percentage of wheel travel.
When the toe changes,other stuff happens. If the toe change occurs simultaneously on both sides of the car, and to the same degree, mostly, the driver doesn't notice it. Unless it is great enough, and then it may be interpreted as twichiness, or wandering.However,if the toe changes more on one side of the car than on the other side, such as when only one wheel encounters a bump or a dip,then the car tends to self steer.At very low speed, this can be disconcerting. At 30 mph, it's very annoying as the car can dart around some. At hiway speeds you may be travelling at 90 feet per second or more, so now, depending on the severity of the "bump-steer", this can be dangerous.
-Now imagine that each side of the car has it's own toe curve.I've had a car leave the road on me at 42 mph, due to bump-steer (a change in toe-in, during a change in ride-height). The vehicle was crossing a diagonal set of railroad tracks, on a curve. Each wheel hit the tracks at different times. It was almost instant.Until this time the car had been tracking reasonably well, especially in the straight ahead mode.
-I am leading up to the point.
-Going back to paragraph #2. What creates the toe curve? Well part of it is designed-in.The different length control arms create a camber change, which can also be measured and plotted. This camber change is designed in to keep the wheel mostly flat on the road when the wheel is travelling up or down, such as when turning, or on uneven road surfaces. Ideally, when the suspension height is set right, with both wheels sitting in the sweet-spot of the curve, there may be 1 to 2 inches of total travel, where the curve doesn't change much.Then the ends of the curve may all change in the same direction.So, then, in a turn,as one wheel travels up and the other travels down, the curves all remain similar, and everything is tickety-boo.But,to minimize (not eliminate) toe-change, the tierod balls have to be in a very precise spot. And both outers have to be in the same spot, and both inners have to be in the same spot.These spots cannot be eyeballed.They have to be determined on the alignment rack. At this point, for you, we don't know if either inner ball is in the right spot or even close to the right spot, all we know is that something is not right. You can slot out the idler arm mounting points to equalize the ball heights, or you can shim the steering-box down.Or you can bend stuff. But which one? Or maybe a little of each? Or maybe the outers are wrong.
-Now, try to imagine the toe-in changing during a turn, and a wheel encounters a bump, or you are travelling through a curve with a decreasing radius, or the rear end steps out, and you need to make a course correction. You will have your hands full trying to keep up.
-I should mention that the straight-ahead alignment can be set with the tierod ball points set almost anywhere, and the specs can be met, and a half-a$$ed shop can send it out that way. A good tech will catch it. But mostly you will have to ask the tech to try to fix the bump-steer, or at least minimize it. It can take an hour or more to generate the camber curves.It can take an hour or more to adjust the inner points. The outer points are not normally adjustable, as the steering arms are integral to the outer balljoints. Thankfully,the outer points are usually pretty close (unless you have installed the offset upper bushings and are striving for maximum caster).
-Point coming, the goal is to prevent or minimize,toe-change.
-Point is; Only the alignment guy can figure out what's what, and only a few know how to correct it.
- Hope this helps
 
Thanks - allot of input, still cant figure out what's going on, I've looked at 2 other bare k frames, The idler arm mount is basically in the same position everything looks the same the welds look factory nothing looks bent, frame rails are straight ,K frame is sitting tight to the frame,The steering box is flush to the K frame @ 03 corners , I have a 6 cylinder crossmember in a factory big block k frame, I did notice on Jim's auto parts website a part number for a small block but a separate pitman part number for a big block on a Pitman arm - I have tried 2- the one that came with the car as well as a aftermarket moog who only lists 1 part number, could there be one 1" shorter ?
 
It would not take much of a change in angle on the idler arm mount to move the other end that far.
 
Thanks - allot of input, still cant figure out what's going on, I've looked at 2 other bare k frames, The idler arm mount is basically in the same position everything looks the same the welds look factory nothing looks bent, frame rails are straight ,K frame is sitting tight to the frame,The steering box is flush to the K frame @ 03 corners , I have a 6 cylinder crossmember in a factory big block k frame, I did notice on Jim's auto parts website a part number for a small block but a separate pitman part number for a big block on a Pitman arm - I have tried 2- the one that came with the car as well as a aftermarket moog who only lists 1 part number, could there be one 1" shorter ?

The big block Pitman Arm is about 1/2" shorter vertically than the others.
 
That sounds like my issue, anybody know where I could find one? Auto parts store-
Moog only share 1 part number 6-383 ?
 
I just received the 20492 pitman arm which shows part number for a 68-69 383.
It appears to be about 1/2" shorter so it should help my centerlink angle but it is slightly too large for my steering box
Which is s 68 225/6 Manuel box, Did the 383 cars use a different steering box with
A larger diameter splinted shaft ?
 
Thanks for the link, still doesn't explain the large sector pitman arm for a 68-69 383 which should have small sector or do tbe383 cars with power steering have large sector
 
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