Changing dash light bulbs

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ajarofclay

ajarofclay

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Hey all, I've got minimal lighting on my dash and need to change some bulbs. Crawling underneath, I only was able to access 2 without being a contortionist. I took the screws out from the face of the dash and attempted to pull that forward but I'm hanging up somewhere. It's plenty loose but the bottom runs into the column and the top binds when trying to tilt it out. I don't want to force anything so I was looking for some education. I Imagine I may have to do something with the speedo cable and the mass of wiring loom; Any input so I don't break something...:eek:? Also was debating LED bulbs but watched one vid describing how some get too hot at the base and fail. Any thoughts on which type or brand works well...or should I just go old school 168\194's?
 
1st disconnect the battery then disconnect the speedometer cable that should allow you to pull it out far enough to unplug the cluster.
 
LEDs work great. I bought some with good ratings on Amazon. They are polarity sensitive, so make sure they light up before you button it up.
 
mbaird said:
Take the drivers seat out .
The best 4 nuts you will ever remove …lol
Click to expand...
Amen, brother. That is one of my favorite bits of advice. I also always tell people to wear eye protection while working under the dash. There is all kinds of crap that can easily fall down into your eyes.
 
Funny you should be doing this today.

I pulled my cluster this morning.

What car / year are you working on?
 
loosen the steering column nuts to the bottom of the bolt. This is enough to pull the cluster out. As for the speed O, either unscrews or unclamps. Easy when you has the cluster pulled out some…
 
On my 67 I could not reach any part of the back of the cluster, with the cluster partially out. I had to disconnect everything from the back with the cluster in place then lower the steering column as much as it would go with all bolts removed. Then it came out easily.
 
Loosen the 3 column nuts and let the column down. Speedo disconnect, front seat out. The dash tends to flex up right above the column, pull down on it and should give you the extra room to pull the cluster forward.
 
I don't want to argue or debate the issue but... I have never needed to remove a seat before removing a inst' panel, be it rally or standard. While sitting on a bucket in the drivers door jamb, I can remove headlight stem and bezel and drop that switch into the dash. Remove one screw to move the fuse box. This gives ample space to get an arm up to the speedo cable. With the right hand full of tools on the floor mat I can drop the steering column. Everything else is done while sitting in the seat.
The one time I will go head under dash is to make sure I don't cross thread that one bolt that goes into a captured nut. I'll never take my air ratchet under there again.
 
Well, I guess that we will all continue to do it our way.
 
Good Monday morning if there is such a thing. (_)] c\_/ Maybe more coffee will help.
 
Wow, all replies just popped up simultaneously right now even though I've been logged in. Thanks to all...
The whole interior has been stripped out for a few years and I totally agree with removing the seats.
I look back and scratch my head wondering HOW THE F*%@ I ever worked under there as a lad. (I've owned it since 1974)
The old eyes require readers now for anything close and in detail so I've usually got those on at least.
Car is a 1972 Demon 340.
Tip on lowering the wheel is probably going to be the ticket. Thanks for that, I expect to get to that later today.
Back in the day, I'd been under that dash with my body twisted in ways I haven't seen pretzels made.
Thankfully, I don't own an air ratchet because of the chaos I would likely have caused with one.
I've got a service manual on a disc but unfortunately, my computer is suddenly giving me issues reading it. Spent 2 days screwing with it before deciding to come to where I should have in the first place.
Anyways...I'll get on that. Thanks so much for your time, Gentlemen. This is the best coffee bar in town!
 
Update: Dang, not as easy as I had hoped. IMHO, a terrible design flaw. It was a fight but I feel I have minimal access. I loosened the 3 nuts all the way to the end of the threads expecting that the column would come down with them but it wasn't happening. Then I loosened the 2 bolts that attach to the inside of firewall area. Nothing. I could flex it down a bit but that wouldn't allow me to get it out with only 2 hands. I tried wedging something in while pulling down on the wheel as far as possible and something snapped loose. I feared something broke but feeling around and looking as best I could I didn't find anything damaged. It also didn't really appear to have dropped much more. At this point I was able to get the speedo cable off. I persisted and wedged a couple of sockets between the mount and framing. (Did I mention, I removed the aforementioned nuts completely?) Still not enough room to get it out and can't get a comfortable feel to unplug the loom though it actually isn't pulling the wires taut anyway. It still is hung up by the column where you need to depress the lever to turn the ignition which I wonder if that may have been a later change that was just brushed aside as far as dash dash panel access. I am able to monkey paw my hands in though and get to all the bulb sockets so now I wait on the bulbs I ordered. Still crossing my fingers that I didn't break anything though other than the initial pop, I heard so other sounds or had nothing fall out.
 
There are 3 bolts down where you loosened the 2. They will alow the column to move.
 
Working under the dash can be aggravating, get comfortable take your time, and be a student, observe. Have replaced all of the wiring harnesses in my '69. Have had almost everything out of the '72, replacing the defroster vents, and overhauling the heater and A/C boxes. Hope that I never have to open up the steering column in the '72. Keep after it and take your time.
 
You don't need a computer and a CD drive. You go to mymopar.Com and download your years FSM free.

It's a PDF and works like the version in your CD but without the hassle.


Be sure the steering wheel is in the streight ahead position. The slip joint has more flexibility in that position.

As mentioned there are 3 bolts on the firewall on the flat plate NOT the two bolts on the curved plate on the column.




Screenshot_20221106-165914.png


Here are some photos I took last weekend while pulling my cluster.

My car is a convert so I have an additional wire on the ammeter. Eyelet connectors.

The passanger side multi connector is upper center (black)

The harness keeper is the yellow / tan plastic tapped to the harness. To get it off from under the dash, push it toward the back of the car, lift up then pull forward. It is on a spring metal clip on the back of the cluster

PXL_20221105_192626299.jpg

The light bulb to the left is the e brake / brake warning light it clips into the cluster. You can see the driver's side multi connector peaking out by the flasher switch

PXL_20221105_192611845.jpg
the speedo cable and a better view of the passanger side multi connector

PXL_20221106_185338994.jpg



I did not have the steering wheel streight notice coupler orientation. Once I streighten it up the column lowered a few more inches
PXL_20221105_192647447.jpg


PXL_20221105_192601685.jpg
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
You don't need a computer and a CD drive. You go to mymopar.Com and download your years FSM free.

It's a PDF and works like the version in your CD but without the hassle.


Be sure the steering wheel is in the streight ahead position. The slip joint has more flexibility in that position.

As mentioned there are 3 bolts on the firewall on the flat plate NOT the two bolts on the curved plate on the column.




View attachment 1716007817
Click to expand...
Thank you, Sir!
 
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