charging system

-
6

67steve

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2006
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
1967 cuda,poweraster alt #pwm-7419, new voltage reg X3, amp meter bypassed... ground out field on alt and 18 plus volts... Everything I do points to the regulator but I put three on... Is there any way to check the regulator? Does anybody have a complete wire diagram so I can just replace everything... I am pulling my hair out on this and it seems the deeper I dig the more junk I find... Has anyone here rewired there whole charging system?

Please help !!!
 
I dont know all the aftermarket names, part numbers, etc.., but I do know grounding either field wire on an isolated field charging system bypasses the regulater, thus full fielded and max amp, output. Your 67 originally had only one field wire and a different type regulater. If and when it was upgraded someone should have added a blue wire to a filed terminal that is 12v supplied. The original green field wire is now isolted field to ground through the regulater. Hope this makes sense
 
Thanks for the reply... Two fields on the alt... one goes directly for the alt. to the regulator...The second one comes from the ballest to the alt with a ign. wire spliced in.. then from the alt field to the regulator...

I grounded the field just long enough to check alt output is all...

I realy dont understand it. I have voltage from the ballast getting to the field and from the field to the reg.. and have the other field going to the regulator.. The damn regulator should be telling the alt to charge... Right ?
 
The wires at the ballast resister are not a good choise. One is hot in start , other is hot in run. One sends 12 volts to the coil, other sends 6.5 volts to the coil. Best sourse for the 12v field wire is the same blue wire that went at top of original regulater.
 
I dont have that wire anymore... Where does it come from so I can run a new one ?

Thanks for the help...
 
There is a point in the harness where more than one blue wires are crimped together. Dark blue with white tracer if I recall correct. Anyway... you need 12V on one of your field wires and I dont know which of the wires at ballast resister that might be tied into now.
Question, When you replace a regulater do you remove the negitive battery cable and properly grrong the regulater to the firewall before attaching its harness connecter ?
It is possible to kill 3 or more. The little ground strap between engine block and firewall can cause problems also.
 
OK, I'm not sure if this is the same problem....but here is what happened to me.

Remember that the voltage regulator draws its sense voltage from a circuit that has numerous other devices on it (high load circuit). This causes the circuit to appear to have a lower voltage than the car actual has. True charging systems should always have their sense drawn from as close to the power source as possible. Car makers usually get it wrong....

This exact thing happened to me when I installed my new ignition. The draw on the circuit with the new coil was so great the regulator thought it needed to produce more voltage. My car alternator was producing 16v, and the car was misfiring badly due to the excessive voltage.

Fast way to test: Run a single wire from the battery positive post to the voltage regulator sense wire, and disconnect the factory wire. In my case the problem went away completely. I simply installed a permanent wire from my battery buss bar to the regulator. At idle I charge at 12.5v, but at anything over 1000rpms it charges a steady 13.5-14.0v (according to my Fluke meter).

Someone else here had the same problem some time ago and he had the same issue as me.
 
After the third new voltage regulator the problem is fixed... The only dif Between the regulators was the two that didnt work were black at the plug and the one that worked was red at the plug...Go figure !!

Thanks to the guys who tried to help me out !!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top