Chassis problem

-
rick4106

rick4106

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2010
Messages
336
Reaction score
53
Location
louisiana
Car is torqued over on the launch. Trying to solve this problem. Stock front suspension,adjustable strut rods,competition engineering 90/10 shocks,.810 torsion bars. Rear suspension 4.30 spooled 8.75,pinion snubber,rancho 9000s, 863/864 super stock springs. 440,10.5 -1,.557,906 2.14-1.81,m1,1050 on alchol,727 with 3000 stall. This pic is with a 1.51 60 foot,6.95@99. Car is 3375 with driver. Im thinking springs . The book shows these at 2800 lbs or they are wore out. Car dont spin but is job to drive.
 

Attachments

  • 20160221_213056.jpg
    30.5 KB · Views: 458
I would guess springs. The right rear is wrapping the spring and trying to lift the right rear tire off the pavement. This is why the car is favoring the right rear side. Cal Tracs and mono leafs I bet will solve your problem. Minus the pinion snubber.
 
Pinions snubbers tend to do this when you mix a boat load of power and a lot of hook. My car used to do that and I went and beefed up the right leaf spring. The car quit hooking but it went straight. If I had to do it all over again I would've bought the cal trac set up.
 
The fun of SS springs...

My friends Cuda left very similar, drivers fender high, went straight. Put a cal trac set up on it and it launches level and straight.
 
rick4106 said:
No body twist. 12 point cage and welded sub frame connectors.
Click to expand...

Go to the 002-003 springs, if you can find some that aren`t the made in mexico springs, they had trouble w/ them for a while. I`ve got a set on mine now, the pass side has a weak main leaf. am going to cal tracs when I GET BACK TO IT.
 
Put some Caltrac bars on it. If you know somebody with some just look at them and build some. I am running home made ones with stock leaf springs. My best 60 ft. so far has been 1.33. I am also running Drag Radials. And very nose heavy...
 

Attachments

  • download.jpg
    16.4 KB · Views: 392
The picture shows the left front 10" off the ground, the right on the ground. You're blind if you think it's not twisting. I don't see any amount of extra spring helping that, but on the upside it's probably helping the leaf setup work.
 
Here is pic from rear. I guess the back bumper is twisting also. U can see seperation on driver side and pass side squatting. Also a pic of his runnerup in pro foot brake
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0349.jpg
    29.2 KB · Views: 341
  • 20160221_144054.jpg
    26 KB · Views: 329
D-50394 said:
Put some Caltrac bars on it. If you know somebody with some just look at them and build some. I am running home made ones with stock leaf springs. My best 60 ft. so far has been 1.33. I am also running Drag Radials. And very nose heavy...
Click to expand...

I believe the group is going to have to demand details of this project.............
 
The Cowl hood is causing it. Car thinks its a Chevelle.

Put a Mopar hood scoop on it, and she should straighten right out.:burnout:
 
71gtdart said:
The Cowl hood is causing it. Car thinks its a Chevelle.

Put a Mopar hood scoop on it, and she should straighten right out.:burnout:
Click to expand...

it ain`t twisting if he says it ain`t, his doors wouldn`t close right if it was. he should know !
looks pretty square to to me, course I had first hand experience w/ that problem back in the day.
 
Looks like a rear spring problem to me.
Weight transfer is good, hook must be good
as per 60ft times.
Looks like more weight needs to be shifted over
to the left rear as it looks like it about to lose traction.
Might clamp the left front leafs and see what happens.
Or maybe unclamp the right.
Could trade sides with the springs.
Cheaper to try first than Caltracs.

I don't see any indication of body twist.
I see unbalanced springs.
 
Was thinking of moving batteries to driver side. Will look at clamps on springs. Was thinking of going ladder bar and coil over. Picked up a set of tubs, and a friend has a set of ladder bars for me. We have a set of cal tracks on my sons car that we shortened the bar on. Came off of a camaro. The hood and grill gives people something to talk about. Lol. Car varies in 60 slightly. Trying to correct that.
 
Some of these responses are pretty funny. The body twist thing is pretty funny. It can't be the springs lol. Ok back to it. If you aren't saddled by the rules of a class, ladder bars or more efficient than a leaf spring. They aren't real street able because there is no articulation in the ladder bar which will cause the inside wheel to float when pulling into driveways but other than that ladder bar coil over is a good sturdy reliable consistent set up.
 
I wouldn't move the batteries until you
tried the spring clamps.
If you can get the right front corner to lift
more the weight will transfer to the left rear.

Might restrict the left front extension and see what
happens.
 
This is a bracket car. Was kinda of rare to cut in my terms. 73 340 3 speed on floor petty blue car. But all of that is long gone. WAs thinking of trying to limit front end .
 
It's twisting and unloading when the car is moving and wasting a lot of power in the meantime. I've cracked enough windshields with a 10pt cage to know it and the car sat level and doors closed just fine.
I think, if you try to control the right leaf, you'll have the same issues as Turbo did (lost hook). You need the ability to preload and/or move the instant center further forward. Research instant center and then look at making some changes. Back in the 90s I used a front spring hanger that lowered the spring eye by about 1 1/2" and lowering the IC. This was with a relatively short tire like you have. It calmed it down a bit but you can't do much with leafs in regard to the IC. Even Caltracs will only move the IC forward an inch or two. IMO you're better using ladder bars and good shocks.
 
left rear shock wants more rebound dampening, right rear shock more compression dampening. and yes the rear springs want to be the 3412002/3 for 3000-3200 pound car.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top