Chinese 1.6 steel roller rockers

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I don't need Crane's description. I have run several of them. In a 360, it barely has a bump when cold and idles like a stock 340 when warm.

They also work VERY well with either the stock OR factory high stall converter. I think they actually work better with the stock non high stall, because the torque curve starts so low, they will burn the tires almost off idle. I have also gotten around 22" Hg.

I think Crane's descriptions are somewhat skewed.



With a [email protected]" and 278 advertised? At least the LSA is 114 to help a bit. Crane's description in their catalog for the 801:
"Good mid range torque and HP, fair idle, daily performance
usage, mild bracket racing, mild supercharged,
small nitrous system, 3000-3400 cruise RPM, 9.5 to
10.75 compression ratio advised." The OP's SCR/ DCR with the 801 will be 8.9/7.0 with the 801 installed at 106 ICL, which is around 3 degrees more advanced than the ground-in advance.

It says daily 'performance' usage, not daily driver. I think it would be good for 'horsing around' on the street, i.e., revving it up and having a little fun, and the top end of the RPM range will be a lot better above 5000 RPM.

The 693901 is 204 at .050", 260 advertised, 112 LSA. Crane's description is " Great low end torque and HP, smooth idle, daily usage, off road, towing, economy, mild marine performance,
also mild turbocharged, 2200-2600 cruise RPM, 8.0 to
9.5 compression ratio advised." The OP's SCR/DCR with the 901 will be 8.9/7.5 with the ICL set at 106, which will be 1 degree or so more advanced than the ground-in advance.

The 901 is much, much more what I would look for in a daily driver. (I might actually go up one step.) It matches up better to the static CR that the OP will have with the 405 pistons, and move around at lower speeds in traffic better. IMHO, a 3700 lb car with manual stick IN TRAFFIC will be a happier car with the 901 cam. The usable RPM range will start around 600-800 RPM lower and I expect the economy to be noticeably better; it has 15 degrees less overlap.

What is your daily driving like, OP? More open highway, or more mixed highway and traffic, or ????
 
I guess I am down to the thought that if the OP has the 901 cam, and wants to build a basic daily driver/tooling around engine out of on-hand parts, just put it in. Put in a moderate ignition advance setup, nothing too aggressive. Put on a 600 cfm carb and tune for mileage. It'll be a fun engine. I am not sure what rear gear & tires the OP will have, but I suspect either cam will be doing OK at 70 MPH.

That idle vacuum for the 801 is quite impressive. I am curious at what ICL did you install those at RRR?

FWIW, I find Crane's description a lot more reliable than the other MFR's; they don't overstate the usable the RPM ranges and do a decent job of recommending SCR and stall speeds for operation.
 
I have used four of them. I degreed all of them per the cam card. If if I remember right, it installs at 110, ICL.

I guess I am down to the thought that if the OP has the 901 cam, and wants to build a basic daily driver/tooling around engine out of on-hand parts, just put it in. Put in a moderate ignition advance setup, nothing too aggressive. Put on a 600 cfm carb and tune for mileage. It'll be a fun engine. I am not sure what rear gear & tires the OP will have, but I suspect either cam will be doing OK at 70 MPH.

That idle vacuum for the 801 is quite impressive. I am curious at what ICL did you install those at RRR?

FWIW, I find Crane's description a lot more reliable than the other MFR's; they don't overstate the usable the RPM ranges and do a decent job of recommending SCR and stall speeds for operation.
 
nm9stheham
these are the third set of rockers that I was asking about:
Brand: Procomp Electronics
Part Number: PCE261.1085
Part Type: Rocker Arms

Rocker Arm Mounting Style: Shaft
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.60
Rocker Arm Style: Full roller
Shaft Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Shims Included: No
Self-Aligning: No
Rocker Arm Body Style: Standard
Rocker Arm Material: Stainless steel
Rocker Arm Finish: Natural
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Procomp Electronics extruded aluminum and stainless steel shaft mount rocker system includes steel shafts with pedestals. All rockers feature large needle bearings and roller tips. For extreme high performance applications. They not only unleash horsepower, but they also lengthen valvetrain component life and reduce wear and tear on valve stem tips. These rockers are precision-machined to ensure consistency and ratio accuracy and have a great looking.

Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 160 Ratio Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arm Set
not the prw, but the pro comp
 
these are the third set of rockers that I was asking about:
Brand: Procomp Electronics
Part Number: PCE261.1085
Part Type: Rocker Arms

Rocker Arm Mounting Style: Shaft
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.60
Rocker Arm Style: Full roller
Shaft Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Shims Included: No
Self-Aligning: No
Rocker Arm Body Style: Standard
Rocker Arm Material: Stainless steel
Rocker Arm Finish: Natural
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Procomp Electronics extruded aluminum and stainless steel shaft mount rocker system includes steel shafts with pedestals. All rockers feature large needle bearings and roller tips. For extreme high performance applications. They not only unleash horsepower, but they also lengthen valvetrain component life and reduce wear and tear on valve stem tips. These rockers are precision-machined to ensure consistency and ratio accuracy and have a great looking.

Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 160 Ratio Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arm Set
not the prw, but the pro comp


Are you sure they have needle bearings? I'd pass on that and buy the PRW's with the bushings.
 
image.jpg
They do NOT have needle bearings.
Are you sure they have needle bearings? I'd pass on that and buy the PRW's with the bushings.
 
these are the third set of rockers that I was asking about:
Brand: Procomp Electronics
Part Number: PCE261.1085
Part Type: Rocker Arms

Rocker Arm Mounting Style: Shaft
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.60
Rocker Arm Style: Full roller
Shaft Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Shims Included: No
Self-Aligning: No
Rocker Arm Body Style: Standard
Rocker Arm Material: Stainless steel
Rocker Arm Finish: Natural
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Procomp Electronics extruded aluminum and stainless steel shaft mount rocker system includes steel shafts with pedestals. All rockers feature large needle bearings and roller tips. For extreme high performance applications. They not only unleash horsepower, but they also lengthen valvetrain component life and reduce wear and tear on valve stem tips. These rockers are precision-machined to ensure consistency and ratio accuracy and have a great looking.

Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 160 Ratio Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arm Set
not the prw, but the pro comp

Those have bushing that ride on the shaft....roller tip
 
if i have banana groove shafts, are they recommended (for these rockers) or not because of the grooves?
if the banana groove shafts look worn (dark, lines of wear on them) do you think that they are still good?
 
View attachment 1715071137 They do NOT have needle bearings.
I have a set of those, possible fitment issue with larger diameter springs and greater "towards 1.80" spring heights. Tried using them on Toms "spinman" motor, he brought them to me and they looked okay for what he was doing....didnt fit and went with 273 and new adjusters instead.

20170718_181616.jpg
 
I have a set of those, possible fitment issue with larger diameter springs and greater "towards 1.80" spring heights. Tried using them on Toms "spinman" motor, he brought them to me and they looked okay for what he was doing....didnt fit and went with 273 and new adjusters instead.

View attachment 1715071170
just notch under the rockers right? these are for single springs -small cam (693901)
 
I run a 1.510 spring and I have a mile.

If the spring hits the rocker, most likely the geometry is off.
That's because you have the geometry kit from mike! lol
If Grey gets that, then yes he can run any spring he wants, but on xheads those rockers with 1.5something springs rubbed and wouldn't even bolt down.

The shaft moved up and a little away fixes more than just the geometry....
 
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if i have banana groove shafts, are they recommended (for these rockers) or not because of the grooves?
if the banana groove shafts look worn (dark, lines of wear on them) do you think that they are still good?
I wouldn't suggest using a used shaft with new rockers. and on a side note, if you have the PC shaft, make sure the oil holes are drilled in the right spot, center of rockers. The shafts I got were soft and had most holes drilled under the bearing surface, oiling was poor. I ordered new PRW shafts and fixed the problem.
 
I wouldn't suggest using a used shaft with new rockers. and on a side note, if you have the PC shaft, make sure the oil holes are drilled in the right spot, center of rockers. The shafts I got were soft and had most holes drilled under the bearing surface, oiling was poor. I ordered new PRW shafts and fixed the problem.
How big would you drill the holes?

Just weld-up, grind, sand, & polish off the old holes?
 
How big would you drill the holes?

Just weld-up, grind, sand, & polish off the old holes?
Think about just buying some shaft over welding up those thin pos PC shafts.
Chances are they'll not be round anymore after you weld, clamp and drill. What's a pair of regular shafts cost these days, 80 bucks maybe? Induction hardened from R.S will cost 200 or so.
 
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