Choke Issue on 1 Barrel Carter BBS

[SputnikOne]

Hey all, was trying to diagnose my low cold idle rpm and stalling issue and I discovered it doesn't really seem like the choke wants to move on my Dodge dart, I'm not too knowledgeable about these systems but I'm pretty sure they should at least move with the throttle.

Any suggestions?

 

[SputnikOne]

Here's a picture of the idle cam, looks like it's not setting on the fast idle.

 

[RustyRatRod]

When the engine is stone cold, the choke should be adjusted so that it is barely closed all the way. Not tight as a drum, but gently closed. It is adjusted by bending the choke arm.

 

[SputnikOne]

The small arm for the idle cam or the long one for the choke itself?

 

[RustyRatRod]

The small arm for the idle cam or the long one for the choke itself?

THE CHOKE ROD. The long rod from the choke stove to the choke linkage. Do you have a factory service manual for your car?

 

[SputnikOne]

I do have the service manual, it doesn't seem to cover with carburetor specifically, and I found the instructions a little hard to follow. I adjusted the fast idle screw that was preventing the cam from rotating got the fast idle position, and it can actually close now, however it doesn't seem to actually *want* to move at all.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I do have the service manual, it doesn't seem to cover with carburetor specifically, and I found the instructions a little hard to follow. I adjusted the fast idle screw that was preventing the cam from rotating got the fast idle position, and it can actually close now, however it doesn't seem to actually *want* to move at all.

What does the choke plate do when you open the throttle? It should snap shut if it's adjusted correctly.

 

[SputnikOne]

Pulling the throttle open doesn't seem to move the Choke at all, I'm starting to think the previous owner knew this and just made it never shut on purpose.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Pulling the throttle open doesn't seem to move the Choke at all, I'm starting to think the previous owner knew this and just made it never shut on purpose.

Is the choke rod spring loaded?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Pulling the throttle open doesn't seem to move the Choke at all, I'm starting to think the previous owner knew this and just made it never shut on purpose.

I'm certain there's no clandestine conspiracy involving your choke rod. lol

 

[SputnikOne]

It's alittle hard to tell, it has a cover over the area where it ends.

Sorry it's dark here now, light isn't the best.

 

[slantsixdan]

It is adjusted by bending the choke arm.

No, it is not. Bending the rod is a great way to make it so the choke never works properly no matter how it's (actually) adjusted. Many years ago I lost count of how many cold-start/cold-driveability problems I fixed by replacing choke thermostats whose rods had been hamfistedly bent by some ape. Don't be an ape.

Too late for this car -- someone has already hamfisted the choke rod and crudely bent it. Probably because this car has a '73-up type exhaust manifold, but it also has a Carter BBS carburetor which was no longer used in passenger cars after '71, so someone tried t make mismatched parts work together.

This '73-type choke thermostat is not adjustable, and pretty good odds there are other things wrong with the choke system the controller which lives at the other end of the wire to the choke thermostat, for example). Rid yourself of all the problems; put on a № 1231 electric choke kit. It works better than the factory hardware, and is readily adjustable.

All the rest of the parts of the system also have to be not-boogered-up too. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

 

[RustyRatRod]

No, it is not. Bending the rod is a great way to make it so the choke never works properly no matter how it's (actually) adjusted. Many years ago I lost count of how many cold-start/cold-driveability problems I fixed by replacing choke thermostats whose rods had been hamfistedly bent by some ape. Don't be an ape.

The choke is adjusted by removing the choke thermostat from the exhaust manifold, loosening the 3/8" nut that holds the spring assembly to the bracket, and rotating the spring assembly relative to the bracket. There's even a notch in the spring assembly and a series of hash marks ranging from "R" (richer) to "L" (leaner) on the bracket to keep track of how much you're adjusting it.

The correct setting in almost all cases is two notches towards "R". If you've installed a thicker-than-spec carb base gasket, you may need to go to 4 notches towards "R".

All the rest of the parts of the system also have to be not-boogered-up. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

If your more-than-half-a-century-old choke thermostat is rusted or otherwise used up, put on a № 1231 electric choke kit.

Ok. Thanks for the correction. I assumed (obviously incorrectly) that since the choke rod had the S bend, that it was adjusted there.

 

[slantsixdan]

Fair 'nuff guess; some parts of the system are adjusted by bending link rods — the choke pull-off, and the accelerator pump stroke, like such as.

 

[SputnikOne]

Do you think I can adjust the spring to make it work? Haven't taken it apart yet but it really seems like there isn't much spring at all, but I'm not very well versed with these systems

 

[SputnikOne]

Dug through the manual some more, isn't this an Electric Assisted choke? Does that change anything on servicing it?

 

[SputnikOne]

Manual Diagram

 

[SputnikOne]

Got the Thermostat housing off the exhaust manifold, everything seems pretty rusty, is there a chance this still works? How do I adjust it from here?

 

[SputnikOne]

Turned the housing alittle so the rod doesn't grind against the frame and it springs shut now, need to test how well it actually works.

 

[SputnikOne]

Well, she cold started alot better, and ran for abit, before the electric pump the previous owner installed just stopped making sound and then it died,

 

[RustyRatRod]

You need to spray it all down with some good penetrating oil and let it sit a while so you can get it apart and clean it all up good, then reassemble it and adjust it correctly.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well, she cold started alot better, and ran for abit, before the electric pump the previous owner installed just stopped making sound and then it died,

Nice. An electric pump is the last thing a stock slant 6 needs anyway.

 

[SputnikOne]

I agree, the mechanical one is still installed in the engine, but the hoses aren't connected, makes me wonder why.

 

[SputnikOne]

Seemed to be running a little rich based on the fluid on the ground near the end of the tailpipe before the pump just stopped trying at all and it stalled, nothing like fixing a problem and finding a new worse problem

 

[RustyRatRod]

Seemed to be running a little rich based on the fluid on the ground near the end of the tailpipe before the pump just stopped trying at all and it stalled, nothing like fixing a problem and finding a new worse problem

Well yeah, the choke was closed.