Choosing a filter for your Synthetic Oil

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RustyDusty

RustyDusty

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Alright, so the "Synthetic Oil" thread saga seems to be drawing to a close. One thing that I didn't see mentioned much, which I believe is equally important, is choosing a filter!

So whether you use Amsoil, Castrol GTX, Motorcraft, or Pennzoil which filter do you use?

Also how do you believe the "extended protection/life" filters with the slow release additives and detergents affect your synthetic oils?

Cheers!
 
I use anything made by Wix or Purolator. If they're good enough for aircraft they're good enough for me.
 
I like Mobile 1, Pure One and Wix when running anything other than Amsoil fluids.

I run Amsoil filters when using the Amsoil extended drain oil for warranty purposes. Also because I use a dual remote bypass kit (on the truck).

The Dart just uses a standard height filter on the block.
 
I don't like how the Amsoil warranty is only valid if you have an OEM warranty, and the OEM warranty is denied due to fault of oil.
 
I use a Fram on mopar, Wix is good too and an AC/DELCO on my chevy, I would be more interested in one with the anti drain back valve for street driven cars.
 
That's a really good question ; @ first I figured, just get the filter that has the best filtration level (lowest/smallest micron particle rating) , but that then may also restrict flow volume...?
Then comes in the advertised additives released by the filter...are they needed, will they help or hurt the synthetic oil ?

I use Royal Purple, and I will ask them for there view on this, and I will be following this thread as well.
 
Super-duper-duty-way-overkill is Fleetguard (Caterpillar) LF-3487 synthetic-media filter. Cheapest I've seen 'em is a little under $10 apiece. But how often are we changing oil? If the engine's in good shape and we're using a good synthetic oil, then a long drain interval is appropriate (and the only way to make expensive oil cost-effective) and an especially good filter is called for. If we're being really wasteful and changing synth oil every 3 or 4 thousand miles, we don't really need much of a filter. I gravitate to the Wix-made or Purolator or Hastings filters; their construction is considerably sturdier and of better quality materials than Fram and other off-brands, which usually aren't significantly less expensive than the better filters. Check country of origin carefully on any filter (or part) you buy these days; increasingly there's nothing you can do about it, but at least you know what you're getting.

By now we've probably all seen the famous Big Damn Mopar Oil Filter Study, right?
 
Slantsixdan, all good points.

Your link is to a thread on lighting though. I haven't seen the "Big Damn Mopar Oil Filter Study" and would like to.
 
Mobil 1, farm and fleet had them a few years ago for $3.99 so i loaded up!! have used K&N, and the Bosch ones at Autozone look like a good mid grade for around $6
 
Whats the difference in filters between synthetic and dino oil filters?
 
how do you know which flters have the anti-drainback valve in them?
do they all?
 
Sorry, my brain must've been unplugged. I've fixed the link so it goes to the oil filter study.

There's no difference between a "synthetic oil filter" and a "dino oil filter", though some companies claim otherwise as a marketeering pitch. It's a little confusing because some filters (such as the Fleetguard LF-3487 I mentioned) use a "synthetic" media, by which is meant non-"paper". Assuming good materials and build quality, that kind of media does a better job over a longer period of time, but there are plenty of very good filters with "paper" media -- again, it's pretty much down to how long you plan on leaving the filter on there. I have already told the story of the '92 LeBaron with the Chrysler 2.5-litre 4-cylinder bought with 70k on it; I ran Mobil-1 (or occasionally other brands of store-shelf synth oil), changed the oil every 16k miles and the Wix or Purolator filter every 8k miles. Cylinders still had cross-hatch and engine had none of the common piston pin knock when I sold it with 170k on it. YMMV!

All the filters that are used in base-down applications (i.e., the base of the filter is at the bottom when the filter is installed) have an anti-drainback valve in them. This includes the large and medium filters for our Mopars, because they were used base-down on the slant-6 and in lots of other applications. The design and effectiveness of the ADBV varies; it's another reason to pick a good filter (and another point on which Frams are known to suck).

The ultimate filter for base-down applications is the Wix 51806 or equivalent; it's the big filter (like a 51515) but with a built-in nylon standpipe that prevents oil draining down thru the outlet, in addition to the ADBV that prevents oil draining down thru the inlet.
 
for years and years and years nobody gave a second thought about oil filters. either we:

1. changed them every other oil change
2. changed them every oil change

there didn't seem to be a problem with either method. now people
are making WAY to big of a deal outta them. additives, anti-drainback
I mean really? just grab the $4 wix filter and be done with it.
 
RustyDusty said:
I don't like how the Amsoil warranty is only valid if you have an OEM warranty, and the OEM warranty is denied due to fault of oil.
Click to expand...

Here is a real copy of the warranty: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1363.pdf

Have any of you guys cut apart the filters you use. I cut apart alot of the filters that come thru my shop just to see whats up. The ones that have not had any holes ripped in the element are - Amsoil - Wix - Mobil 1 - Hastings - Napa Gold. You really get what you pay for with a filter. I use Amsoil filters on dino oils also since alot of people are going alot longer than the 3,000 miles and are competitive with Napa Gold prices. Filters I stock are Amsoil - Wix (under Car Quest cover) and Napa Gold.

Dan - I wish they would update the filter report sometime. A good read though but not really relevant since it is 12 years old

I know I wouldn't want to have a hole in my filter!!

Later
Ryan
 
I use bosch oil filters [readily available] or wix.

I've used the fram double guard with the ptfe, rubber strings were hanging out of it when I changed it, fram's not so great, though their racing hp line is supposed to be better/good.
 
A-BOMB360 said:
for years and years and years nobody gave a second thought about oil filters. either we:

1. changed them every other oil change
2. changed them every oil change

there didn't seem to be a problem with either method. now people
are making WAY to big of a deal outta them. additives, anti-drainback
I mean really? just grab the $4 wix filter and be done with it.
Click to expand...

x2
 
i had the tough guard fram on my truck, it iced that motor. Two rods and a main spun. The filter media collapsed and plugged the center of the filter..... If i use amsoil i use amsoil filters,
most everything else gets rotella 5-40 syn and mopar or wix/napa gold filters
 
NAPA "GOLD" is a relabelled Wix , and that's def a good thing .
Need to know what number filtre your vehicle's going to need ?
NAPA Gold is the same as Wix , but without the preceding "5" ; example :
"1068" NAPA = 51068 Wix .

Fram is 100% junk .
That's a shame , as I used them almost exclusively throughout the late 80's - mid 90's , and never had a problemwith their filtres ( air , oil or fuel ) . Obviously , their quality -- or lack thereof -- has taken a huge dive .

I've never used Pureolator , but have heard great things about them .
 
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